Hospital Tanks???

pwrflpills

AC Members
Oct 19, 2005
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Delray Beach, FL
Hi All,

When my fish get diseases from time to time (fungus, bacteria, etc) I sometimes wonder if I should get a hospital tank. Problem is, I have no idea what is considered acceptable for a hospital tank.

My current problem is that I am VERY limited in space - I basically have nowhere to store or especially keep another tank up and running, ready to admit patients. So maybe that answers my question for now, but in the future when I do have space, what is the best set up? For now, can you keep a empty tank in a closet and just fill/start it up when there's a sick fish? And it is just me or is it IMPOSSIBLE to catch the fish to put them in another tank. Last time I tried I tore apart my tank.

I almost feel like I owe it to my fish to seperate the sick ones and treat them on their own instead of subjecting the whole tank to a bunch of chemicals and potentially the disease that the first fish has.

Thanks.
 
I don't keep my hospital tanks up and running--they are all setup on an as-needed basis, then tore down and cleaned once the fish goes back into the main tank. The key to doing this successfully is to keep biological filtration available for use: putting a small sponge into your filter that is 'extra', and can be pulled out and put into the hospital setup is ideal. I use Aqua clears, and run 2 sponges. so, when i need to, I can pull out one sponge, replace it with a new one, and use the first in my hospital setups. No impact to the main tank, and good filtration for the hospital setup. Another good option is to put a pre-filter sponge on that can then be put to use on a powerhead, or to run a small internal filter as well as your main filtration. Then, when you take down the hospital tank, sterilize the filter used in the hospital, and return to the main tank.
 
My simple 10 gallon hospital tank.

P1010155.jpg


Pretty much a bare bottom 10 gallon tank (no gravel = easy to clean) with a sponge filter (I use an aquaclear sponge much like OrionGirl) a thermometer, a glass canopy to keep fish from jumping out but still make observation easy, and a plastic plant to make the fish feel safe and a visitherm heater (50w though 25w is acceptable). I tear it down and bleach everything in a mild 4 cups of bleach per 10 gallons, rinse very well and air dry. The sponge does not get bleached but boiled for 20 minutes and put back in the main tank's filter for re-colonization. I also keep a nitra-zorb pouch on hand for emergency ammonia problems (shown on top of the sponge filter). If you are medicating for any reason, take the nitra-zorb out as the medications will foul the pouch up and also be removed from the water.
 
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Wow, thanks guys.

But ya, I was afraid it was going to entail a 10 gal set up, plus heater, filter and thermo.

Once I get more established I'll have to make the splurge, but thank you!
 
It doesn't have to be a tank--anything that holds water, will support a filter unit of some kind, and can be regulated for temperature works. I prefer being able to cover the tank as well, to prevent jumpers. If you don't have big fish, then you don't need a big hospital tank. I could set one up for ~$25--small tank, powerhead for filtration and water movement, and a heater.
 
One benefit that comes with using a 10 gallon is that most medications base their dosing instructions on 10 gallon increments. Saves you the math + the possibility of underdosing/overdosing.
 
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