Top skimmer filtration for FW planted tank?

I am starting a 29 gal planted tank and I built my own filter because I am a college student (a.k.a. broke). I built a filter that skims water off the surface at one end of the tank and then pumps it back in at the opposite end about halfway under the surface of the water. The filtration system is comprised of mechanical, biological, and chemical media in that order, and the pump has a valve to control flow. The pump is a Quiet One 1200 and can pump near 300 gph. I have only seen this type of filtration system on salt water tanks, but to spare some certain detail I basically like how this filter worked because of the physics involved with the self maintaining siphon and that the pump coupled with a valve controls the flow rate of filtration. Another plus is that I realized I could make it out of PVC and Tupperware, both of which I already had, for very cheaply (I can obtain some photos is anyone is interested). I estimate that the whole system is overkill for my tank, but the filtration system can be fitted on to a larger tank without making any changes.

I am also utilizing the proverbial 2 L homebrew CO2 system with an airstone as a diffuser. I now realize that most people seem to use over-the-back filter that suck water from the bottom of the tank for freshwater unlike the marine-esque filter that I have built. I am not experienced with plants, and I want to know if my filtration system will compromise the CO2 that dissolves in the water? And more importantly is this type of filtration system not viable for freshwater use? (is it important to draw debris from the bottom of the tank or will the water return be sufficient to agitate waste to the surface to be filtered out?)

I am planning on moving my tank and the whole set up to school and establishing the aquarium in my room there. The other specs on my tank: I am using sea-chem fluorite mixed with onyx sand and peat moss as a substrate; 55 watts of compact fluorescent lighting (store bough…ouch); 100 watt heater; and I have some drift wood that I found at the beach (of lake erie, which I understand to be relatively contaminated, but I have boiled, baked, and leeched to wood of contaminates for a few weeks now with activated charcoal). I have been considering adding additional spotlights which I have left over from a chameleon habitat – about 120 watts worth of incandescent lighting and possibly more if I need it. Am I limited by part of my set up? Is additional lighting a good idea? I live in OHIO and I am betting on having hard water, but I am not going to take any measurements on the water parameters for another few days until I can set everything up at school. Until then, can anyone save me some lesson by pointing out a mistake or missing element to my to-be freshwater planted habitat?

I’m a newb, so I don’t know what I am really doing. I’d appreciate any advice!

Thanks for the advice Watcher, I went out and bought 2 extra 23 watt compact flourescent daylight bulbs and two spot lamps to put them in. I figured a 23 watt flourescent bulb is better than a 100 watt incandescent bulb. For those who would like to know the bulbs are made bt Sylvania and are called Daylight Extra mini 100 and they are rated at 3500K which isn't too bad. (23 + 23 + 55)watt/29 gal yeilds very slightly under 3.5 watts per gallon.

I also read that successful planted tanks do not need filtration or airation? Am I better off filterless or filtering at a verrrrrry low gph rate? I figure that as watter runs through the filtration system, which holds about 4-5 gallons (much like a sump), that most the CO2 would be agitated out of the water. I'll just have to experiment with flow rates and check CO2 levels to aquire the most ideal results...no free lessons in that respect so far.

I'll get pictures of the filtration system shortly! It the system works well then I will post pictures and such in the DIY forum.