Complete die off w / bio-spira

SciFiFan42

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Dec 14, 2005
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Hi Everyone,

I have a very big problem with my newly established 40 gal. tank.

I used biospira to cycle it, and added a full load of fish. I believe that my first problem was with the batch of biospira I bought. It must have been ineffective or expired, because my nitrites were pretty high for the first four days or so. However, the fish I had at the time (6 platys, 6 lemon tetras, 6 white skirt tetras, 2 rams, and 2 plecos) were doing just fine, showing no signs of stress. The nitrites didn't decrease, so I added a bit of Prime (following the directions) to the water in an attempt to help. Still no change in levels (nitrates rose as expected, though, making me believe some bacteria - action was at work). The fish were still doing fine about 7 days in.

The problem came when I noticed ich on my white skirts on day 8 -- the other fish weren't affected. I stupidly let the problem wait two more days -- day 10 of the "running" aquarium, at which point the white skirts were heavily infected, and the others were just starting to show some signs. I began treating with Kordon's Rid Ich, and that's when things went downhill.

FYI -- Before treatment, I noticed my nitrites had dropped to nearly 0 again, with "safe" nitrate levels, so that was good. Ph has always been steady at about 7.2. Moderate water hardness levels (not too hard, not too soft).

Two days into treatment (the recommended dosage of 1 tsp per 10 gallons, for a total of 4 per 40 gallons), I had lost about 1/4 of the fish, including the Rams, one pleco, several white skirts and several platys. The lemon tetras remained unaffected by either ich or any signs of stress. Today is day 5 of the treatment (day 15 total of a running aquarium), and I've lost the majority of my fish -- one pleco, two platys, 3 white skirts, and the lemon tetras are all that remain. The lemon tetras are now showing signs of ich. It's as if the treatment didn't help at all. Further, the dead fish seemed to have "disintegrated" at the time of their death -- their fins were frayed, their scales flaking, etc.

My question is, could the stress of poorly functioning biospira, along with apparently bad Rid-Ich, have caused this massive die off? The aquarium is also host to a fully complement of live plants, all of which are doing just fine, growing well, etc. The temp. is a steadly 78 degrees, the lighting is provided by a compact florescent light which is kept on for about 12 hours a day. I'm using an Enheim 2233 canister filter, rated for up to 60 gallons. The only problem I've noticed with it is that the flow seems awful strong, creating a strong current. Could this have contributed as well?

Any help with this situation would be greatly appreciated. I think, at this point, the remaining fish will be dead within a few days. Is there any way to save the plants in the tank, while "disinfecting it" for reuse and restocking? I will purchase my biospira from another source this time, to ensure that I get a "good" batch and would like to try again. If I raise the temperature to 83 degrees and leave it that way for a few days (a week?) would that be sufficient to kill whatever's in there (including ich) while not damaging the plants and giving me an opportunity to do a complete water change and try again in a few weeks? Thanks again, in advance, for any suggestions!!

A very, very desperate hobbyist who believed she was doing everything right... :help:

Sarah
 
For information on ich:

http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39759

For more info on Bio-spira, the cycle, the stress it creates and so on :

http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64301

Most likely the rid ich would have killed the tera's without any other stress. despite the reccomendations for half dosage on sensative fish it still usually proves too much stress for tetra's and most cats. It actually sounds to me like the bio-spira did in fact work very well. For a full load of fish to cycle that quickly something went quite right. It is a good product, but its ability to work is directly proportional to bio-load. it may not have been enough to handle the bio-load you had.
Dave
 
SciFiFan42 said:
If I raise the temperature to 83 degrees and leave it that way for a few days (a week?) would that be sufficient to kill whatever's in there (including ich) while not damaging the plants and giving me an opportunity to do a complete water change and try again in a few weeks? Thanks again, in advance, for any suggestions!!

A very, very desperate hobbyist who believed she was doing everything right... :help:

Sarah

Hi Sarah, I just cured ich in my heavily planted aquarium using just salt and heat. To give you an idea of what I faced, here is a picture of one of my white skirt tetras before the salt treatment started.

ich.jpg


What I did was take the plants out of my aquarium and bunched them into a small 10 gallon aquarium. Imagine a 55 gallon tank with over 75% of the substrate planted being stripped bare and fitting that all into a 10 gallon. Not an easy task. I then put one of my large double tube florescent fixtures over the 10 gallon and used a simple hagen ladder to supply them with CO2. While the plants were resting in that tank, I salted my tank using the standard 3 teaspoons per gallon treatment and held it in there at a lethal strength for ich for 8 days though I reccomend 10-14 days of salt in the tank. I kept the temperature at 82*. Good luck and stop using the rid ich+ the formalin is very caustic to the fish and the MG is not so nice for them easier. It also degrades too rapidly in any high light + dissolved organics environment (aka planted tank) to really be 100% effective. Salt is cheaper + safer on the fish.

10-14 days in a bare tank without any fish is sufficient to disinfect them from the parasite though if you are worried you could treat the plants with the rid ich+.

Raising the temperature is not enough to successfully treat ich. It will just make the parasite more virulent.
 
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Thanks for the replies!

Re Dave's comments: "It is a good product, but its ability to work is directly proportional to bio-load. it may not have been enough to handle the bio-load you had."

I normally wouldn't have given it such a full load so quickly; however, from the posts I read on the board and from the product's own recommendations, it seemed the correct thing to do was to add all of the fish. I think, though, my problem lies with the use of Rid-Ich, instead. I had been giving the full dosage, thinking that the tetras would be fine since they were "hardy" fish. I do feel terrible about this, and have learned my lesson --

Re: Rrkss's comments

I will certainly try the more natural way from now on. I had read your posts on the subject, and had thought about simply using salt and heat, but then decided to use medicine because I didn't trust myself to carry out the salt/heat treatment properly -- this backfired quite ironically, and I do feel terrible for the suffering I've inflicted upon my fish as a result. :(

I will follow your recommendations regarding the plants and "cleaning" of the tank, and will hopefully have more success the second time around. Thanks again!

Sarah
 
Just FYI there is usually never any reason to remove the plants. I have done ich treatments with a multitude of plants and invertibrates. caution is not a bad thing, but unnecessary work is.
Dave
 
I normally wouldn't have given it such a full load so quickly; however, from the posts I read on the board and from the product's own recommendations, it seemed the correct thing to do was to add all of the fish.

More often than not this will work, but the high nitrite levels show that it wasn't enough bacteria, while the high speed of recovery shows that you did get a good dose of bacteria. It's always a little bit of a crap shoot when using bacteria starter colonies of any kind with fishy cycle. On occasion things don't go as planned .
I would agree that the rid ich was more likely the issue with the fish deaths.
Make sure you keep ammonia in the tank if all of your fish do die. then the tank will remain cycled for the next batch of fish.

And also if there are no fish in a tank ich cannot survive so just leave things set for a week without fish and then you will be rid of ich in the tank. Carbon will remove the meds.
Dave
 
daveedka said:
Carbon will remove the meds.
Dave

This is true for the Malachite Green but formalin does not really get removed by activated carbonl. I'd reccommend a couple large water changes first before adding the salt. Formalin kills ich by replacing the internal cytoplasm in the cells with a jelly be denaturing proteins. Same thing happens to the fish's cells hence the caustic effect though the fish cope it better than the ich parasite. Salt will worsen this effect and therefore you should remove the formalin first with a water change.
 
Bio Spira is only available in 30 gallon and 90 gallon sizes. Do did you put in 2x30 gallon packs or 1x90 gallon packs?

If you only used 1 30 gallon pack, that may be part of the problem.

Roan
 
Prime also kills of the specific bacteria present in the bio-spira. Read the back of the packet of bio-spira, states specifically that water conditioners other than bio-whateveritis will kill the bacteria in bio-spira.
 
Prime also kills of the specific bacteria present in the bio-spira. Read the back of the packet of bio-spira, states specifically that water conditioners other than bio-whateveritis will kill the bacteria in bio-spira.

This is actually information I've not heard before. Has anyone else had this issue arise? Obviously the prime did not completely kill off the bacteria, and it seems odd that it would since the bacteria are the same as the ones we grow naturally and prime does not kill them off. But if there is some truth to this it should be verifed and shared.
dave
 
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