Substrate

IceH2O

IceH2O

Bazinga
Nov 26, 2005
1,682
60
51
Rock Hill,South Carolina
Real Name
Ice
After looking at my wallet I decided to go the cheap route.

I'm going to use Quikrete Commercial medium sand. What can I add to it to make it more fertile? My wpg will be 1.75ish (75 gallons,130 watts)

I was thinking Laterite because its cheaper than fluorite.

Another question would be, Does Flourish excel ever reach the roots of amazons or is it soley a water column type fert?

I know I can add root tabs, would this be better than adding laterite?


While I have your attention I'd like to ask another question pertaining to my canister filter.

Where do you put the spraybar? Is it better to put it near the top, bottom, pointing up, down, on the back wall or on the side wall?
 
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Unless you have major root feeders like crypts and swords you'll be fine with no addition to the substrate. Soilmaster Red and Charcoal are available to use as a cheap alternative to Eco complete and flourite, look at lesco.com for it.

Most plants get the nutrients from the water column. Seachem Flourish Excel is a carbon source is taken through the leaves where photosythesis occurs. The roots usually gather minerals that are not available in the water column, and hold down the plant. Seachem Root tabs will be just fine for the substrate.

The canister filter spray bar can be adjusted to fit your preference. Just as long as it doesn't blow down the plants and create surface aggitation, then you are okay.

-John N.
 
I have my spray bar horizontally, about 3" below the surface and pointed down slightly.

I believe you have to add Laterite before setting up the tank but I could be wrong. Just something to be aware of. I personally use pieces of Jobes sticks for lush ferns and palms and have never tried Laterite. You have to be careful to keep the Jobes buried and vacuum up any visible bits as soon as possible.

I like to use the gravel fertilizers to provide additional supplementation. If any water column fertilizers are lacking, the plants will still be able to fulfill their needs. I put them around about 90% of my rooted plants.

By the way, there's nothing that says the cheap route can't be successful!
 
Yeah my tank isn't setup yet, just sitting there.

If I can just put Jobs sticks in that works for me. That way I don't need to worry about the laterite coming to the surface.

I'll need some type of substrate fertilizer because there will be crypts and swords. Just normal houseplant sticks and they need to be the fern/palm type right? Is Jobes the best or can other brands be used also?
 
Captain Hook said:
I have my spray bar horizontally, about 3" below the surface and pointed down slightly.
Click to expand...

On the back wall or side wall?

Where is your intake relative to your spraybar?

I figured spraybar on the side wall and the intake on the back wall but in the opposite corner.
 
I have mine the same as Cap'n Hook, but I have two filters. The Penguin is on one end of the tank and the Eheim is on the other with the outflow on the end wall, and the intake on back wall.

Roan
 
I haven't tried anything but these. I know Seachem, and I'm sure other companies, make good gravel fertillizers as well. These might even be more safe to get in the water column if they have less urea nitrogen.

The intake has been moving around a bit, it doesn't really have a permanent spot.
 
Okay so I decided to go with Quickrete Commercial medium sand. While rinsing it I'm convinced each region has its own quickrete plant and since we have clay soil, I had very dirty sand.

I rinsed it until it poured out clear. Though in the bucket it still looked orangish, I figured it was the lighest pieces floating because it didn't have time to settle. Its been 6 hours and still cloudy. I knew this was going to be a possibility, because we all know how hard it is to get sand clean.

I've got the XP3 setup and took all media out and replaced with all poly fiber. I figure I'll give to morning to settle and then turn it on. You think 4 media baskets packed with poly should clear the smallest particles or do you think I should just do water changes?
 
Okay I waited all day and then decided to do a water change. Did about a 90% change. The water is now clear except for a ton of bubbles mostly sticking to the glass. I have the XP3 running with proper media.

I'll wait a day for the water to degas and get to the same temp as the 20 gallon tank. I must say I'm pretty good at judging as the 20 gallon is at 78 and the 75 gallon is 76.

Now if you've been reading this post

http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68178

you'll know that my other tank didn't instant cycle by using established filter media.

The 20 gallon will be empty when I move its contents to the 75 gallon. If I move the entire filter and media to the 75 gallon will it then be instantly cycled or will I be running into the same problem?

If the filter from the 20 is on the 75 and everything is fine( instant cycle). What would make any bacteria grow in the XP3 and when I remove the filter and put it back on the 20 will the 75 go through a mini cycle?

The 75 gets the loaches which would be affected by the AM and NI more so than the birchirs.
 
So you are transferring all the fish from the 20 gallon into the 75? Are you adding any more, or just what was in that tank? If you don't allow any of the bacteria to die by drying up, you should be fine. The filter from the 20 is a good idea. The gravel will also help.

Have you added many plants to the 75? Once they start growing they will be taking in the ammonia as well. If your plant load is med-high and your fish load is low-med the plants might do all the biological filtration for you.
 
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