View Full Version : Nitrate spike. Why?
Mrs. Burns
05-07-2006, 2:44 AM
Just last week I tested my tank and ammonia and nitrite was 0. But nitrate was between 5 and 10. I tested again today and it was up to between 40 and 60. I did a 25% water change and retested and got nitrate at 40. What should I do? My tank has been set up for 2 1/2 months with fish for 1 1/2 months.
Roan Art
05-07-2006, 6:58 AM
How often do you change your water and how much?
Nitrates are a natural part of the tank process -- they are the end product of ammonia and nitrite. They have to be removed/managed by weekly water changes.
Roan
dirtydawg10
05-07-2006, 7:15 AM
This is the major question...
How often do you change your water and how much?
But also list your tank size and fish...if you're overstocked you can get spikes in nitrates very quickly...
Mrs. Burns
05-09-2006, 12:16 AM
My tank is 10 gallon. With 2 male guppies, 1 glassfish and one angelfish. Oh, and 4 ghost shrimp. I was only changing the water every 2 weeks and all was fine. So I need to change water every week to get the nitrate level down? Also, I have read that it is normal to have 40ppm (nitrate). Is this really true? I thought everything should be 0 when the tank was cycled.
Roan Art
05-09-2006, 5:57 AM
My tank is 10 gallon. With 2 male guppies, 1 glassfish and one angelfish. Oh, and 4 ghost shrimp. I was only changing the water every 2 weeks and all was fine. So I need to change water every week to get the nitrate level down? Also, I have read that it is normal to have 40ppm (nitrate). Is this really true? I thought everything should be 0 when the tank was cycled.
The cycle: ammonia -->nitrites-->nitrates so a cycled tank, unplanted, can and should have nitrates that must be removed via water changes every week.
Unplanted tanks will have nitrate accumulation as there is nothing to process the nitrates. Planted tanks may have 0 nitrates, however that is not always good as plants need nitrates to grow. If nitrates hit 0, then the algae can take over the tank.
IMO an ideal level is ~10-20ppm. Affordable hobby nitrate tests do not accurately measure the nitrate level. I do know that my AP kit will measure at least 10 above what is there and my Hagen kit measures 50ppm when I have 0ppm. At best they should be used for a "ball park" idea of what the level is.
The best way to control nitrates -- which, btw, are not the only things that have to be removed from the tank. There are other things (suchs as Dissolved Organic Compounds) that really must be removed that we cannot test for -- is via weekly water changes. If you do weekly partials of 50%, then you need not worry too much about nitrates unless you over stock the tank.
Roan
Basic aquarium principle: Waste product titers/levels in the water are the end result of input.
Nitrate is the most easily measured waste product in unplanted tanks, so we use it as a rough guide to general pollution buildup, as we cannot as easily measure all the rest.
Waste profuct are the end result of additions to the tank and generally match well with feeding levels. If your waste (nitrate as an example) are climbing too fast, it likely means overstocking and subsequent over-feeding, or inappropriate feeding, or just simple over-feeding.
Learning to feed is one of the hardest things about keeping fish. I'm still working on that one. I tend to overfeed myself as well as my fish. ;)
Mrs. Burns
05-11-2006, 10:07 PM
Is my tank overstocked? And I only feed once a day. I only have fake plants. What kind of plants should I consider for the size of my tank and the fish I have? I picked up a Lilly Bulb, but I learned they are too big. Also, my test kit is a fw master test kit made by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals. Is that a reliable test kit? I changed 50% of the water and now the nitrate is down to barely over 20ppm. Would it help if I vaccumued the gravel when I do a water change? When I vaccuum, the water isn't that dirty (that I can tell). I know the beneficial bacteria sets up in the gravel too. Does vaccuuming affect that?
For an unplanted tank, the gravel should fully vacuumed at each paruial if possible. If full tank full depth is not possible with each change, do at least as much as possible. Substrates are wonderful nitrate/pollution reservoirs.
Roan Art
05-12-2006, 4:52 AM
To add what RTR said -- if you have adequate filterage and are not over stocking, you needn't worry about vacuuming up the good guys. Bacteria will house themselves in the place that is best for them to thrive and grow -- your filter.
I've found the AP nitrate kits to err on the side of 7-10ppm+. In other words, if my tanks are at 0ppm nitrate, I will get a reading of 7-10ppm with an AP nitrate kit. Your milleage may vary, however.
Roan
Marinemom
05-12-2006, 10:12 AM
It's a good idea to vacuum the gravel when you do a water change. Excess food and debris can sit on the bottom of the aquarium and start to decay. This of course will cause a problem in your tank and effect the levels in your tank. As far as asking if you are overstocked, I would plan on getting a bigger home for your angel fish. They can grow quite large and as they mature they tend to become more aggressive. In such a small tank the aggression level of the angel will be apparent because it becomes a territorial issue. This will spell trouble for the rest of the fish in the tank when the angel decides that the entire tank is his territory. The rest of the fish in your tank will be fine when the angel has a bigger tank.
Be happy!
Marinemom
mostlycichlids
05-12-2006, 10:27 AM
I agree over feeding and not enough water changes. A 50% water change should drop the nitrates. Check again after 24 hours. if the nitrites have dropped you are good and can continue 20-25% water changes weekly. some nitrares are good 10-20ppm but too much on a regular basis and you will have major alge problems and will be doing more alge cleaning than anything. Just make sure to wait a week between water changes.
There is no disadvantage to the tank in daily water changes, or more. If the water is free of chlorine/chloramine, the more and larger volume partials you do, the healthier the tank will be. The water parameters will never drift away from those of the source water. Stability and high water quality are extremely important in keeping fish.
There are many myths in this hobby, and those concerning water changes are among the most damaging.
Mrs. Burns
05-14-2006, 11:30 PM
The water change brought down the nitrate. And I will be vaccuuming every week. I was probably feeding them too much. The water was pretty yuck! Just after 2 weeks! Ghost shrimp shells and uneaten food! Thanks for the advice! And about my angelfish. Will 20 gallon be alright, or should I put him in a 30 or bigger? I plan to get a few more angelfish. I like him and he needs some buddies, although he's buddied up with my glassfish, they will soon be separated.
Marinemom
05-15-2006, 1:12 AM
I'm glad you have decided to get a bigger home for your angelfish. He will be much happier in a bigger tank. Plan to get him the biggest tank that you can afford and have space for, especially if you plan on having more than one. Your angelfish will thank you for it. Good luck with him.
Marinemom
Mrs. Burns
05-15-2006, 9:04 PM
I have 1-10 gallon,2-20 gallons, and a 75(not set up yet). My husband plans to also get a 55 gallon. This one will be mine. The 75 gallon is for my husbands oscars.---Long story/another thread. I would like to have the angels in a species tank. Although I've heard that they can be aggressive towards each other. But like I said, he's fine with the fish in the 10 gallon.
Marinemom
05-15-2006, 10:50 PM
Perfect! you can put your angelfish in the 55 with other angels if you want. A species tank will be beautiful. Angelfish are very graceful in a big tank all to themselves. Just make sure that when you add angels that you figure in thier adult size and that as they mature and get bigger there will be territory issues. Give them plenty of hiding places and plants so they feel secure. Good luck with your angelfish and enjoy him.
Be happy!
Marinemom