Stocking a New 20 gallon tank.. need help with ideas.. loaches, tetras??

[ara35]

I am buying a 20 gallon fish tank for college and I do not know for sure what to buy. I am buying one of those starter tanks for 80 bucks that comes with a filter, heater, lights, and all that.. is this a good idea? I definately am getting some tetras and loaches. I want some black kuhli loaches, but the guy at the pet store said they were hard to keep alive. Is this true? What kind of tetra are good? I am also going to get dainos, cory cats, plecos or rainbow.. any advice on which type or how many? Also, what kind of freshwater plants would be the best for my fish? I am truely brand new at this and i need all the help i can get. Please leave any comments. Even a sentence or two. Or let me know what you guys have. I need all the help i can get because i am a true beginner with this. Thank you so much and i hope you guys will help me with my new hobby! - Ant

[rosita]

Hi ara, and welcome to Aquaria Central. One recommendation I would make, since you aren't familiar with alot of fishes, is to Google each species--that way you will not only get pictures, but the start of helpful information in regards to tank size needs, other fish they get along with, difficulty of keeping (beginner, intermediate, expert). Then come back here and ask questions like how many of what, cycling your tank (critical!!!), equipment, foods, etc. Not trying to get rid of you, ara!!! It's just that once you see a bunch of fish, read some about them so you have a bit of knowledge to go on, it will help you AND the folks here who will be oh so willing to help. It's a great site with mountains of info!!! BTW, most rainbow fish get pretty big and need to school in groups, so you will find they won't fill your tank size. Happy hunting, and welcome!!!! :thm:

[paku]

The starter kit is fine to get you going, it is prolly the cheapest way to go. If you really get into the hobby you will fine yourself upgrading ALLOT. New filter, new heater, Lighting, C02, gravel ect. To save you some trouble, get some good gravel "substrate" if you plan on having plants. I use Eco Complete, another good substrate is flourite. read up on them. Infact by the time you done upgrading the only thing out of the kit you still use is the tank :)

Get a test kit and search google for "cycling a new tank" Learn what cycling is before you even buy the tank.

For most plants, your light that comes with the 20g kit will be "ok"... but if your like me you will want a fully planted ubertank... and need about 3+ watts per gallon. you can worry about that later on tho. Any petsmart plant should be ok (they have tags on them that say "low light" "high light" ect... stick with low light for now. untill you decide to go for 65+ watts for the 20g I will throw out some names tongiht when i get home.

Make sure if you get a pleco it wont be more than 5" fully grown.
Clown Pleco, Brstlenose ect. NO common plec or sailfin plecs.

A school of tetras 6+ is a great addition to any tank. (neons, black neons, whatever ya want)

[dorkfish]

A school of tetras 6+ is a great addition to any tank. (neons, black neons, whatever ya want)

Be carefull following that advice, it is somewhat true, but the different tetras have a wide range of temperments, so ALWAYS read up on them (and any other fish you want to buy, of course) first. You don't want to end up having to set up a second tank or bringing fish back (well, you shouldn't want to, although this mostly aplies to the later in some cases)

[Rbishop]

Must really recommend getting a handle on cycling a tank..(establishing the bacteria for a healthy environment...

So You Have A Fish Tank!!
(A Cycling Overview)

Even if a planned evolution, or an abrupt circumstance that you find yourself in, some of the information here may help you and your new pets.

In The Old Days

And even sometimes today, by ill intent or misconception, you will hear, “ fill the tank, treat with this and let it age for a couple of days” or “ this will let you add fish today”. Only if it was that simple, not to imply that this will be hard, but you have to remember, you are establishing a microenvironment. Basically, creating a small-scale world for living creatures.

You will not find the fix or set up in a bottle, and then add another two or three items to “get” the water to where “they” think it needs to be. With some cautious steps and easy preparations you can create the suitable environment for your fish.

“Cycling A Tank”

What we mean by this term, is the process of establishing an environment that will beneficially support fish life, with minimal stress to the fish and to you. The terms used here are relevant to the “nitrogen” cycle and how it relates to the aquarium.

The first item for discussion is Ammonia (NH3). All decaying matter, like uneaten food and from fish wastes, produces this. Any detectable amount is trouble for your fish, and levels of .25 ppm and above can damage fish permanently, based on length of exposure. This damage occurs to the gills, and causes breathing problems. It will damage the gills whether the fish live or die.

Secondly, the bacteria that break down ammonia produce Nitrite (NO2). This nitrite blocks the ability of blood to absorb oxygen. Even if the fish can breathe, they are not able to utilize the oxygen they take in, as easily. They can act as if panic-stricken and/or have little control over their movements. Even with short-term exposure at high levels, stress occurs and they may not be able to ward off other immune system attacks.

And finally, second bacteria forms that consume nitrite and forms Nitrate (NO3). While short-term exposure to low levels of Nitrate are not a concern, they can be if too high over a long term. Nitrates are removed with consistent regular water changes or by aquatic plant life.

A cycle is never really complete. It is established and an ongoing evolution. Keeping this “cycle” balanced and continuous is the goal of properly maintaining a tank for a healthy environment for your fish. Strive for Zero Ammonia, Zero Nitrite, and approximately 20 ppm Nitrate or less.

Ways To Cycle Your Tank

I have broken them down into three currently widely accepted methods.

(1) Using Established Bio-Logical Filter Media

This is probably the most preferred and least stressful method that will allow you to stock your fish quickly and depending on the extreme you use, to full tank load.

If you have established tanks already, without any issues, you can put filter media in them before the new set up is ready. The biological bacteria can establish themselves on it and it can be transferred to the new tank and fish added. This can be as simple as sponges on filter intakes, filter cartridges in HOB/HOT, or media in canisters. It can include substrate or décor from other tanks, such as rocks and plants.

Please ensure the tank you are drawing from, has Zero Ammonia, Zero Nitrites and less than 20-30 ppm Nitrates. It should also be a tank free of disease. Do not take media or filter squeezing from tanks you are not sure of or from a local LFS. You could be establishing your new tank with all kinds of problems. Since most bacteria will not be free floating in the water column, taking just the water will not accomplish much.

The bacteria that maintain the cycle need to be fed in order to maintain. Waiting a few days can be disastrous. If moving a tank, keep the media wet in the old tank water, aerated and for the short term only.

This method provides minimal stress to the fish, minimal work on your part, quick stocking, at or near full capacity. But you must plan ahead. It could take several weeks to establish a bacterial colony of sufficient size, on the media you move to the new tank.


(2) Fishless Cycling

Just as it sounds, you can establish the cycling environment without any fish. This method does not pose any threat to fish, establishes a large bacteria colony allowing full stocking upon completion and gives you time to decide on what fish you want.

When establishing a tank with this method, you will use a source of ammonia to initiate the nitrogen cycle. After your tank is set up, add water and treat for chlorine/chloramines. Your filtering systems and heaters should be in place and operating to your satisfaction.

Add ammonia to bring the tank to a concentration of 5 ppm. The amount you add will vary with the size tank you have. Do not be in a rush. Add small amounts and test, repeating as necessary. If you get it too high, you can drain and refill.

Now the hurry up and wait part happens. Every two days, test your ammonia level in the tank. When the ammonia levels start dropping, add additional ammonia as required to keep the ammonia at 3-4 ppm, start daily testing and test for ammonia and nitrites. Nitrites should be developing as ammonia goes away. This first stage could take 1-3 weeks.

When you see the test results showing Nitrites, start maintaining your ammonia at the 2-3 ppm range. The nitrites increasing reflect you are in to the second stage. Continue daily testing for ammonia and maintain the tank in the 3 ppm range. You will see nitrites climb so high they will be off the scale for a reading. This will continue for one to two weeks and it will seem the nitrites are never going to go away.

There will be a day where you test and the nitrites have completely disappeared, thus, the bacteria that convert them to nitrates have established themselves. When you see this drop to zero on nitrites, dose ammonia in the tank to about 5 ppm, and wait 24 hours. If at the end of that period, ammonia and nitrites are zero, your cycle has been established. Test for nitrates, and do a 75-90% water change. Pull your water down to 20 ppm nitrates and add the fish! If you have to wait to get your fish, keep the cycle established by dosing more ammonia, but you may have to do another water change before adding your fish.

(3) Fishy Cycling

This method is probably what many fall into from all the myths that run rampant out there. It is also the method that can cause severe stress or death to the fish. There are some simple techniques that make this type of cycle go easier, but take some pre-planning on your part.

The basics of this method are to set up your tank, fill, treat with a water conditioner, add some hardy fish that can handle stressful conditions, test/monitor the ammonia and nitrite levels, and do water changes as necessary.

When your cycle is established, you have a bacteria load that can handle the fish that are in there presently. More fish can be added in small numbers over a period of time, allowing for a mini-cycle to grow the bacteria levels to the new bio-load. You need to pay constant attention to your tank, testing daily, doing water changes when required, not when you can get around to it. Do not assume that you can add more fish just because reading are undetectable or low. Give the environment time to respond.

You will be captive to testing at least twice daily, doing water changes whenever ammonia or nitrites hit .25 ppm. Do not be surprised that even with a cautious approach, you lose some fish.

[mikeb25]

hi ara i started with the same setup it works fine but later you will find yourself upgrading but do your self a favor and find a local fish breeder because all of the fish i have had from petco or petsmart have died because they are not kept in the correct water conditions

[ara35]

Yo guys have been mad helpful. I appreciate it. Where would i find a fish breeder? Thanks guys.

[icecubez189]

your 20G is going to be in a dorm? don't you have to move every couple of months?

[ara35]

that was actually my next question. Ill be coming home for christmas for a couple weeks, can i leave the fish for this long with a feeder. and im only moving after about 9 months, then ill have them home, then ill move them back in the fall. should i go with a 10 gallon tank instead? and also, how would i move the tank?

[Charlie97L]

if you're in a dorm, make sure you check with the regulations on what size fish tank you're allowed to have. all the dorms regs i've ever seen limit you to 10 gallons. that might answer your question right there. :) don't want to be paying fines and such.

[H3D]

I want some black kuhli loaches, but the guy at the pet store said they were hard to keep alive. Is this true?

In a 20 gallon yes. Black kuhli loaches do best when kept in groups of 5 or more in a 55 gallon or larger aquarium.