How many of you have wet/dry filter?

loaches r cool

loaches r cool

Snail Terminator
Feb 15, 2006
1,830
0
0
Gahanna, Ohio
tristan.homelinux.net
I was wondering how many folks here have a wet/dry trickle filter or similar setup on thier plant tank - especially with CO2. I am thinking about getting a larger plant tank and considering building my own sump setup with overflow box.

I have seen a bit of info with the past on this but was looking for some more info. I understand the basic thing to help prevent CO2 evaporation is to kinda seal the sump section so that when the waters is sprayed through the bio balls that if the air around it is all CO2 it has more of a chance of retaining the CO2 thats in it but I dont know how much that will help.

The other thing I was unsure of was that a large heavily planted tank doesnt need alot of bio-filtration since the plants are doing most of the work for you, and thats the big advantage with a DIY sump, you can use like gallons of bio balls. So they are the most effecient at bio-filtration, but is that a good match on a heavily planted tank?

The other option I am considering is in addition to the XP3 I currently have I would either buy another or maybe the XP4, wich would be primarily a mechanical filter.

I'd like to hear any comments/ideas anyone has...
 
I tried a wet/dry (Pro Clear 175) on my 113g with little success. The only mods I did were to reduce the gas-off in the overflow. I did this by installing filter pads in the overflow and lowering it to reduce the splash effect from the cascading water. I also installed a stockman standpipe in the drain to reduce all the gurgling and splashing. This actually got my CO2 levels from 7 ppm to 10 ppm @ 3 bubbles per sec. I suppose if I increased the bubble rate I could have reached a higher CO2 level, but taking out the wet/dry yielded me a CO2 level over 25 ppm @ 3 bubbles per sec. I've since stuck with just the Eheim 2217 and Magnum 350.

Unfortunately, I didn't do much to "seal" the bio-chamber. There's about a 1/8 inch gap around my cover that lets air enter/escape. Before I reinstall the wet/dry I'll seal the perimeter with some air-line hose (glue it). There's also two large circular ventilation holes on the inside wall that I never noticed. These will also have to be sealed before I reinstall the filter. I think once these are sealed I'll be able to get some better results with my CO2 levels. IMO canisters would be the easier way to go. Of course, you lose a hiding spot for everything by not using the wet/dry.

However, at this point I don't need the wet/dry, which leads to your second concern. I currently stock 4 clown loaches and one elephant nose. My plants stock consists of about 60 plants. With that said my ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels are barely measurable with my kits. My current bio-filtration (Eheim and Magnum) may not be up to pars with some others that I've read on the forums with 100 gallons, but I think my heavy plant load and weekly water changes help to control my water parameters. I do 50% water changes weekly. That may be something you want to consider (number of plants/fish load/how much how often water changes). I'm sure my plants do an excellent job of bio-filtering but I believe my low fish stock and water changes help.

In the next month I plan on adding about 8-12 Boesemani Rainbows. I'll have to test and reevaluate my filter options as I do. I plan on modifying the wet/dry before I order my fish. In the event I need more filtration I'll implement the wet/dry and let you know how things go. Also, go with the XP4. A little bigger can't hurt on a large tank.

Jesse
 
So the wet dry definatly impacted your CO2 significantly. Let me know if you re-install your wet/dry with any more mods and what kinda CO2 level you get per bubles/sec. The problem when you seal eveything up with the wet/dry is that your elimiating the dry part part (bio balls to be in the air) since the bio balls will no longer be able to get any oxygen out of the surrounding air if its CO2. Not that I think it wont perform any more, with amount of plants your O2 levels I suppose should be pretty high... just negates the added benefit of the wet dry. Now with the overflow/sump setup you still get the advantage (atleast in the DIY ones) to have an area away from the tank to put all your heater, probes, co2 diffusers, etc, inside leaving a clean look around the tank, plus easy acces for water samples and water changes. The other thing I find appealing is that they maintain water level in the tank (evaporation effects the water level in the sump not the main tank). So if you determine it is possible to maintain higher CO2 levels after sealing off the sump section then maybe I will ditch the idea of above the waterling bio-balls and just go submersed in my design. I will atleast build one for my goldfish tank - wanted that one to be a prototype to see how it works. The problem is I'll have to have a filter for the big plant tank before the goldfish seing how the goldfish tank will be the one the plant tank is migrating from (meaning I have to move my fish and plants into the new big tank before the goldfish can have the tank).

I was hoping a few more people have atleast tried wet/dry?
 
The concept of the wet/dry trickle filter is counterintuitive to two goals of the planted aquarium. First, plants LOVE ammonia, something that wet/dry biological filtration is specifically designed to de-nitrify into nitrites, the least phytophillic form of nitrogen. Secondly, you need to expose the water to lots of air, causing a buttload of gas-off... If you want to build a filter, do a canister/CO2 diffuser. 6" PVC, capped at either end (one permanent, one rubber cap w/ clamp) with a 3/4" barb fitting in the side at either end. Fill with floss, pads, carbon, whatever you like. Add hosing and a powerhead at one end, prime and plug. Personally I like my shiny new Magnum 350.
 
I'm curious,
Don't all filters(mechanical) use elements that encourage bio filters?

would the wet /dry be that much different?
if you wanted to reduce the filtration, could you use a smaller pump?
 
Biological filtration will occur inside of anything containing oxygenated water and ammonia. The wet/dry portion of a sump filter, or a bio-wheel for that matter capitalize on high amounts of aeration to achieve maximimum numbers of bacteria colonies. A canister filter on the other hand does not aerate the water, meaning reduced colonization. Decreasing the size of the pump will do nothing to further the end of decreasing denitrifying bacteria, it will only decrease flow, in turn decreasing filtration and nutrients being carried to your plants.
 
star_rider said:
I'm curious,
Don't all filters(mechanical) use elements that encourage bio filters?

would the wet /dry be that much different?
if you wanted to reduce the filtration, could you use a smaller pump?
Click to expand...


If you havent any experience with wet/dry then know that most will say they much more effecient (for the bio-filtration part anyways). That and they simply dwarf the media capacity of other filters, especially a DIY one that could easily say have 5 gallons of bio balls.

A DIY canister sounds interesting but I cant see myself making something that is significantly better for my app then a commercially available one (unlike a wet/dry sump filter which can), so I will more than likely stick with a canister. Like I said before the main advantage for me for the sump style filter were all the other advantages besides the increased bio-filtration, so its kinda a trade-off between these other advantages and the CO2 it will cost me. I dont mind doubling or trippling the CO2 flow rate since CO2 is fairly inexpensive, but only if I can still achieve a good level in the tank. If I am trippling the CO2 rate but only getting 10ppm then its not worth it to have the sump. Thats why I was hoping some people have tried it and can give me some real world results to help in my decision making.
 
Like I said though, bio-filtration in a planted aquarium is a counteractive measure, and something you should aim to minimize, not maximize. If it weren't for cloudy water and a need to diffuse CO2, the norm would be non-filtered tanks. Unfortunately they aren't very practical when you think about actually looking at the tank.
 
thanks for the info..food for thought I call it. :idea:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
AquariaCentral.com
Top Bottom