Dying Fish, Best Master water test kit?

pthalobluebetta

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Jul 10, 2006
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Hi, I'm near running out of water test strips, and am sick of buying individual tests so I figured I better invest in a master test kit. My strip tester tests nitrate/nitrite/ph/hardness/alkalinity (mardel) and i have a tetra test liquid ammonia test kit.

I'm looking for a more precise and dicrete all in one test kit and was considering the Red Sea Deluxe at bigalsonline. Is this a good kit? And a good price?

What I don't understand about my current ammonia tester is that it gives readins for 0, .25, 1.5, 3, and 5mg/l. Aren't the only useful points between 0 to 1.5 as anything over that and your fish are in serious trouble? My 5 in 1 strip tester doesn't test lower than 6.4 ph and some of the readings on the other variables do not seem accurate enough. eg, your nitrate could be anywhere between 40 and 80 if it's not either.


My second question is that I've been having some trouble w/ my new fish. My 6 gallon Nano Cube tank has cycled and after about 3 1/2 weeks both ammonia and nitrites spiked and when my nitrites read 0 i decided to add some fish.

When I originally started the tank, I used a japanese substrate, I forget the brand name. And I planted some plants including dwarf hairgrass, HC, Rotala, and 2 others I don't know the names of. Some snails hitched along for the ride and so I have a few tiny snails in there as well.

After the tank cycled, I picked up 7 neons and an oto at the local petco - thye looked fairly healthy. Unfortunately when I got home and aclimated them, I noticed one of the neons had noticeable fuzz on his head and wasnt swimming too well, so I didn't put him in the tank. He died in a cup later that night. Then I noticed another one in the tank that had a little fuzz on the side, but it was very difficult to tell. I couldn't fish him out unfortunately since the plants get in the way and I didn't want to stress them out even more by chasing them w/ a net.

2 days later I got some algae eating shrimp for my tank. I only wanted 3, but it was much cheaper to get 5 at their price break, so 5 went into my tank. Is that too many? I want to take out 2 and put them in a 4 gallon w/ my betta but I will have to arrange a few hiding spots first.

In a day or 2, 2 neons turn up dead in the filter intake in the morning, leaving 4 neons total. Fearing that my school may be too small and that it would be better to introduce more neons while their pcking order wasn't completely established, I picked up 3 more neons at petco, replacing the 2 dead ones. I also picked up a healthy dwarf gourami thinking that my water params were still ok - testing 0/0 ammonia/nitrate. Well, 2 more neons died, not sure which ones.

2 days later the gourami stopped eating, I made a water change and thought he was looking better, but he died the next morning. The water parameters read fine.. but a about 40 on the nitrites so I made another 50% water change.

Today, the 5th and smallest neon died - had been hiding out in the corner of the plants, not schooling w/ the other neons, and not coming out for food. I think he might be too slow and not aggressive enough.. the other fish don't beat up on him, but it's hard to feed them with the filter going sometimes. I feed them flake food, it's a bit messy and I would like to find something cleaner. I also fed the Gourami dried bloodworms which I soak in tankwater first, and he liked that.. very happy the first few days, and had a healthy appetite.

Now only 4 of the strongest (and most aggressive at feeding time) neons are left and they seem quite healthy at this time. The oto still does fine, and the 5 shrimp careen around wildly feeding on whatever they find. I see noticeably less algae.

Every other day I dose my tank w/ 1ml Excel carbon, I regularly do 40-50% water changes once a week, although more like 2-3 days recently w/ the fish issues. My current readings are:

ph : 7.6 i think
alkalinity: ~120
hardness: 120
nitrite: 0
nitrate: 40
ammonia: last test yesterday: 0

My ph seems higher than normal, probably due to the recent water changes I've done. Our water is fairly basic and hard here. When I had only plants in my tank, My ph read about 6.4 and buffering @ <80. The carbon additive for my plants drops the ph, so I added about a teaspoon of baking soda every 5 days which would buffer up to 120-180. I've stopped adding baking soda once I added the fish.

Could ph swings be killing my fish? How do I keep the ph down and stable w/ my area's water?

I'm sad the gourami died. Yesterday the plants were bubbling oxygen.
I would like to keep the rest of the fish alive, and am planning to wait a few weeks before trying to add another gourami.
 
also I'm not sure how much to feed my fish. My flaske container says 2-3 times a day, but the flakes are so messy, and I don't know if they're eating enough. Some of the neons are just so greedy, others are picky and eat a flake only to spit it out (he doesn't like pink ones or something). Sometimes they'll swim to it and then turn away. The shrimp sometimes fight for the flakes as well.

I also have some peat moss I use for the garden, should I be using that to lower my ph, or should I leave it untouched w/ the rest of the fish as they are.

My tank is on a timer that turns on the lights for 8 hours/day, plant growth is good, although I do have a bit of decaying HC when I didn't realize I was supposed to add the carbon excel every other day, not once a week!

I also have sinking algae pellets that my oto isn't intersted in but the shrimp sure are.
 
some images before their demise:

6tank.jpg


gourami02.jpg


neons03.jpg


neons01.jpg


shrimp.jpg
 
As far as test kits go, ditch the test strips because i've only heard bad things about their accuracy. The Aquarium Pharmaceuticals (liquid reagent) Master Test kit is good. Go online, print out bigalsonline price on it and bring it to Petsmart, you will get half off what the charge. This kit doesnt include KH/GH tests though.

I would be careful messing with raising and lowering your pH. With your buffering capacity at 3, you are probably fine with a lower pH. Adding the baking soda is probably a bit extreme, even a small amount. I did the same thing and it skyrocketed my Ph up to 8 from 6.6. Im sure your fish are fine with a pH in the low to mid 6's. In the future if you want to raise it again along with hardness and keep it more steady you can add crushed coral to the filter. Also if you want to lower your ph you can add peat moss to the filter as well. Aquaclear actually makes a filter media Peat insert.

Anyway the point that should be made is that yes, playing chemist with additives to alter ph will stress your fish and can actually lead to disease that may be happening with your current fish. Not sure why you want to even lower it, 7.6 is actually a pretty good range for what you have.

Oh, also another way to keep your PH lower is to inject CO2 if you want a more elaborate planted tank.
 
thanks, I was hoping to get a kit w/ co2 and kh tests due to the plants i have in the tank.
I add Excel carbon which lowers my ph because of the carbon, and my buffering was dropping pretty low, so I added the baking soda to buffer back up when there were no fish.

I thought I might need a lower ph since I read neons prefer more acidic water, and my basic tap water measures around a ph of 8.

In the end I'd just want to keep my ph as stable as possible and in the range prefered by my fish. I'm just afraid that the carbon I add may cause the ph to fluctuate too much by decreasing the buffering.
 
I think the neons will be fine in a pH of 8.0. I keep acidic, soft water species like dojo loaches and glass catfish in hard water (240 ppm, or 14 degrees) and relatively high pH (8.0). As has been said by many aquaria gurus, "fish can't read pH." Messing with their chemistry is much more harmful to them, as already said. pH becomes a concern only if you want to breed.

Also, I don't believe Flourish Excel makes water acidic. It's not CO2, but an organic carbon intermediate. Carbon dioxide results in acidity because
CO2 + H20 = H3CO3 (carbonic acid). Carbonic acid is what they put in soda to make it bubble. Yes, soda is pretty acidic (remember how mom used to say "soda will rot your teeth").

So like debaric said, don't try to fix what ain't broke. Things like crushed coral to increase pH and hardness, and driftwood to decrease pH are safer because they're natural and gradual. Chemicals are harsh, and too abrupt and extreme.

hope that helps!
 
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