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View Full Version : Need help restarting an 80g cichlid tank



Bruin
03-29-2003, 5:46 PM
I have an 80g aquarium that was active for 3 years, and I just ripped it apart last week to start over, reasons given below.

My Equipment:
Emperor 400
Fluval 404
300W heater

Assorted rocks (red lava I believe) and fake plants for deco.

The remaining fish in the aquarium were 3 Cichlids, not sure of their exact type but I believe they were African from Lake Malawi, and a red tail shark. I bought a 20g and moved all the fish to that aquarium, as well as the gravel, some of the rocks, and the Emperor 400 from the old tank. The fish are fine and more lively than before.

My main problems with the tank and why I decided to rip it apart were as follows:

1. Algae, Algae, everywhere. This is just what absolutely ruined it for me. I first got the brown algae, diatomes, everywhere. It was easy to clean but within 2 weeks there'd be sheets of it all over the glass and it just became a PAIN. I got some phosphate removing media that I put in the emporer which dramatically lowered the phosphate levels and eventually the brown stuff was gone. BUT, that's when the green stuff started showing up. I did frequent water changes, 20% about every 3 weeks, but to get rid of the stuff required a heck of a lot of elbow grease just on the glass. But this stuff was all over the fake plants, my rocks, EVERYTHING. It came to the point where I honestly just gave up. The algae became so hard and thick, I now have to use my nails just to scrape it off. Thus one of the reasons I decided to start over, give the tank a GOOD cleaning. I realize now that some of the conditions leading to this were - I have a well lit room but the tank doesn't get any direct sunlight. I did leave the lights on for about 12 hours a day, which I will severely cut back on, to about 4-6 hours a day.

I am also thinking and probably will after giving the tank a good scrubbing, fill it up with water, let all the filters run through with no media and pour a few gallons of bleach to kill off any remaining algae spores. Then do a few 90% water changes and add a lot of chlormine (sp?) neutralizing chemicals, then begin to cycle the tank. I am also contemplating getting a UV sterilizer, but not sure how they work.

2. Gravel. With all the rock formations that were present, cleaning the gravel was a PAIN. Also, I put too much gravel in, about 100lbs so that it had about a 3-4 inch layer. Eventually, the gravel got soo choked up with debris, that an anaerobic (sp?) condition developed and all sorts of gunk grew down there. I tossed out all my old gravel which was a normal pebble size. I am wondering what I could do to prevent such a buildup of debris. My first thoughts were:
- get a sand type gravel, which would make it harder for debris to even sink down into the gravel.
- get a fairly large sized gravel 1/4-1/2 inch sized pebbles and run reverse flow undergravel filter, which would then hopefully prevent the debris from even settling.
- OR, just run a normal UGF with the same large sized pebbles but with a high enough flow rate that would just suck the debris out directly into a filter, such as my fluval.

Basically, what I'm asking for help in:
1. For any reason the bleach idea a bad one?
2. What can I do to prevent such an algae buildup.
3. What steps can I take to make it easier to clean the gravel, or take steps to help prevent a debris build up in the first place other than just constant gravel vacuuming.
4. Also, can someone recommend a good gravel for cichlids, preferably that would help me prevent the whole gravel debris.
5. Lastly, what types of cichlids should I be looking at to match with my current fish?

Once the 80g is properly cycled, I will return my fish to the tank.

Money is not a big concern, I wouldn't mind spending a few hundred dollars if necessary to purchase equipment that would make the care of my tank easier or less burdensome. ie a UV filter or another fluval so I could have 2 fluvals connected and sucking from the UGF.

Thanks!

scholar
03-29-2003, 10:51 PM
The easy thing to do is to get a rubber -lip pleco from Persmart. He will eat all lthe algae.


I would not add any chemicals in scrubbing because you can not get them all out. they will get into fiosh's gill and kill them.

I would use a tough brush and then leave the tank to dry up. tht would kill the algae.

When resetting up the tank, make sure that not too much direct sun shine on it. this will reduce the algae. The pleco will eat up whatever shows up.

Good luck, :)


PS: I never clean inside my tanks!

joker
03-30-2003, 9:09 PM
A pleco is a great idea. In my experience regular bushynose or the albino variety are excellent algae eaters (as long as you like how beautifully ugly the males get :) ,and they do not get huge like some other variants.

As for your substrate, I highly recommed a product from CaribSea that has an excellent grain size (1-1.7 mm) and great buffering capacity which is important for Africans at least, unless you are leaning towards soft water cichlids.

The lighting is the main thing however. I would suggest buying a cheap timer to turn the lights on and off automatically. Only run the lights for a maximum of 10 hours a day, 8 or nine is even better.

In all honesty I would scrap the UGF and buy another Fluval or better yet, get a wet-dry and use that as your only filtration. Skylab Industries has some great filters perfect for your size tank.

DO NOT USE BLEACH TO CLEAN ANY PART OF THE TANK UNLESS YOU ARE SURE IT IS ALL GONE AFTER THE FACT.
Bleach is fine for small parts like micron filters because it is easy to make sure the chlorine is gone, but better safe than sorry.

Tightdog1
03-31-2003, 8:41 PM
let the tank sit dry w no rocks/decor in it for a few days outside in the sunlight then use HOT water and clean the stuff off with a razor blade be sure to scrub really good tho! then you have a new tank.

thalassic park
04-03-2003, 2:28 PM
Hi,
I decided to give my opinion, I hope it is worthy.
First a good simple filter is a box on top of the tank with plumbing to return the water through the top of the tank i.e cut a hole in the lid. It can go straight out of the bottom of the box with the correct fittings.
A submersible pump with a pre-filter is placed in the tank, and plumbing is run up to the top of the box. A spray bar at the top of the box sprays the water onto the media. On the inside of the box, a length of pipe with a 'T' piece can be fashioned to provide an overflow as well as an outlet for the filtered water.
I've noted that the filter needs to be cleaned every 2 months for the first year. Fine filter wool maybe needed to remove the plankton blooms associated with a fresh setup. After that the tank should have balanced (established) and the filter will need once/year maintenance.
As for the algae 'don't fight it'. Add large boulders of limestone, use coral sand as a base & add a colony of African Algal Grazers. Tropheus are spectacular as are Petrochromis (tanganyikan) or Malawi Fish like Pseudotropheus & Petrotilapia. These fish do extremely well when kept as a large group and are able to graze on natural algae.
The detritus and Sand can be syphoned straight out and the sand replaced as necessary. Taking off the surface layer of sand can leave nice clean sand.
Don't use bleach its a lot of hassle. The algae will grow anyway.
I see it like this, over 1 or 2 years, the tank balances. That is why the orange algae was taken over by the green. In this time the tank is establishing colonies of bacteria. Sometimes the tank will go cloudy (plankton blooms) and apart from introducing plankton eating fish there is nothing to do but ride it out. Setup again and be patient