Looking for advice on my planted tank with CO2

A

Avonlea.PA

Wishing I was in PEI
Mar 21, 2003
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Mechanicsburg, PA
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Hello everyone.

I have a couple of questions regarding my tank. But, here is what I have:

40 gallon with about 2.5 boxes (8 lbs) of Laterite mixed in with the gravel (twice the amount suggested on the box). I have a mixture of plants, but unfortunately don't have a list of them. I use a Fluval 204 filter with BioMax media, carbon, and peat. I keep the temp at about 75 deg., and pH is right around 7.1 The tank has about 18 mixed Tetras, 3 otto's, 2 SAE's, 1 cory and a blue Gourami.

I had a problem recently with hair/thread algae. I removed all the plants I had, cleaned off the heater, pH probe, temp probe, etc. with a bleach dip and then placed all new plants in the tank. My light cycle is 8hrs a day. (I'm not at home, so I don't know exactly the wattage I have, but they are PC lights. I think it's 96watts). I'm afraid that the thread algae may be coming back.

I will soon be acquiring a CO2 tank and regulator. What is the easiest/cheapest way to add the CO2 to my tank? I've never dealt with CO2 in a freshwater tank before.

Do you have any other suggestions? I've been considering replacing the entire substrate with pure Flourite. Any thoughts on this?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
I found Amano Shrimp and true SAE's do a terrific job on hair/thread algae but they only eat the fresh growth, they generally won't eat the big nasty older stuff. I had to do the bleach thing too, but now that I have done that I only have to pick out a few strands once a week. I have heard that rotating a toothbrush in it will pick it up wuite nicely.

The CO2 will depend on what kind of money you are willing to spend. If youv'e got a $150 to spare, go for the injection system. If you are on a tight budget however (like me), do a DIY CO2 system. This will help your plants outcompete the algae for nutrients.
 
Is this a newly set up tank? Frequently there are algae out breaks in tanks that aren't established long.
You are running, if the 96 watts that you report is correct, over 2 watts per gallon which, unless you have a good amount of plants will lead to algae break outs as well. That's a lot of light in a tank with no CO2 especially if you don't have many plants. Your tank needs balance. You have good substrate and good lighting.
IMO, you need as many plants as you can cram in there and either DIY, or injected CO2. Then you'll need to learn about fertilizing those plants. That'll be the easy part, as we have much info on plant fertilization for you to read.
Once you establish a bunch of plants and feed them well along with CO2 you'll see the algae disappear.
50% water changes, a couple times a week will help control the algae until you acquire the other things the I mentioned.
I use the same system that Skittyfish mentions above and am very happy with it. But if you don't want to shell out the bucks for that, you can go DIY, which is cheap and effective in a 40. I used DIY in my 40 for quite a while with good results.
Len
 
Well, the tank has been set up since around November, but as I mentioned, I just replanted the whole tank with about 15 various plants. I'm planning on adding more this weekend.

I'll be going the CO2 injection route (not yeast method) since I will have the regulator.

What about the use of RO/DI water? I have an RO/DI unit for my reef tank. Can I use it and add elements back in, or should I stick to city water?

I'll double check on the lighting when I get home.
 
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I also bought my tank and regulator from Rapids Wholesale and have been very satisfied. However I tried the above illustrated "HOme Depo cheapo" (as it is called elsewhere) needle valve - two times - and couldn't get it to stop leaking. I ultimately got a Clippard MNV-4k2. I am satisfied with it though I really wish it had a finer adjustment. It is finer than the Fish Vet one though.

If you have a local Clippard dealer (see their web site www.clippard.com) you can get the valve for about $10. Otherwise it will cost double that plus shipping from internet aquatic stores.

Bob
 
avonlea, jumping straight for the meat on the pressurized system, eh? congrats.

bobalston, you mentioned a leakage at the needle valve? is it at the unit itelf or at the connections? just for good measure, be sure to use teflon tape around EVERY hardware connection point in the co2 system. this will help ensure a good seal against leakage. also, i would make sure to have a nylon washer in between the regular and the cannister to give that major junction a good seal.
 
Even though I went DIY on the CO2, I would like to go pressurised. Maybe someday...

BTW, I was just in Stouffville in January and last September. Nice town.
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That is interesting. Who do you know here. I might know them considering how small Stouffville is. BTW, my wife and I went to conferences in Pittsburgh a few years in a row. Gotta say it is probably one of the most beautiful cities I know of. PA is a nice state too.
 
I got the Clippard vavle too, only they were out of the MNV-4K2, so I got the MNV-4K and added the barbs. Heidie at Clippard was extremely helpful (sent barbs at no extra charge!). Be sure the airline hose is on very tight. I used wire ties to make sure they were on very tight. (had leaks and used silicone too!) If the tank is new, it seems like the needle valve doesn't want to be very fine (maybe I just turn too much). After a couple of days though I can turn it from one bubble a second to one and a half bubble or one every two or three seconds.
 
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