PH buffer, measuring CO2, green water

[TTKarl]

Ok, here's the story. I decided to up my light on my 26 bow from the factory 15w hood to a 65w compact. Got the light everything was good. PH was low for some reason or another 6.5. Went to LFS go PH buffer(what a nightmare!) Added buffer ph at 7 green water 2 days later(also added planttabs fert and plantgro). Ok, found that phosphates were high off the charts! 5ppm in tap plus whatever the ph buffer added. Ok, so I bought a tap water filter and added phoszorb to whisper 40 filter. Still green water 1 week later no phosphates. Decided I needed co2, built co2 reactor with crude co2 bell, and did 50% water change. Green water 1 week later. Got mad and added algaefix. Still green but i could just barely make out the back. KH at 1 degrees added some baking soda, now at 2.5, PH still at 7. Two days later decided ,ok, bell must not be effective enough. Built Barr reactor (kudos to Tom for that by they way! what a inovative design) It's been running for 1 day with still no ph drop.

1. Is it possible that i'm not reading the PH drop from CO2 due to the remaining PH buffer in the water? Or is the buffer bonding with the CO2 and making it unreachable by the plants?

no ammonia, nitrites reading with test kit.

2. If I am getting CO2 should I see the green water subside?

[fresh_newby]

why on earth would you add pH buffer?
Complicating things with additives can lead to algae blooms and green water.
6.5 is not a low pH.
In addition, algaefix is not something you should add either.
Clean as much as you can, clean your filters, do large waterchanges, and just load up with plants, CO2 and dose ferts. That is it. You are making things difficult for yourself. I wouldn't add any of those buffers and algae removers.... read this guide to get you started www.rexgrigg.com You need to brush up on plant needs.
Without a carbon source for your plants, all of that light will let algae out compete your plants. You need CO2 or dose excel too

[TTKarl]

While that's all good information this still doesn't answer my question.

[beviking]

Can't help with question #1. Would never use pH buffers so have never investigated them, what they are, how they work, etc....

Just adding CO2 isn't going to make the green water go away. If you have too much light, too many nutrients, not enough plants, you can still have green water. If you had a heavily planted tank (lots of plants...I mean LOTS of plants!) and sufficient CO2 (ferts and light too), then you'd make progress.
Are you doing DIY CO2? Without the answer to question #1, you really don't know if your CO2 set-up is working. I'd make that the #1 priority. The green water just looks bad, it shouldn't hurt anything temporarily. Could shade plants too much if it gets too thick, but you wouldn't see any adverse effects for a few days/week anyway.

[liv2padl]

i'll admit to knowing virtually nothing about growing plants in the aquarium .. i've tried a few times and killed them all. thus, i can't really answer your question as it relates to your plants. i can however tell you with certainty, that all that chemical manipulation is definitely going to kill your fish. i'd suggest that you do some research on how to grow and maintain plants in your tank either with or without CO2, use of sufficient light for your tank size and tank depth, use of proper substrate, proper photoperiod and sufficient nutrient load.

[epicfish]

1) Drain tank, start over.
---> Don't use any form of commercial pH booster.
2) Your green water is due to a. too much light, b. plant tabs, c. Plant-Gro
---> 99%, you have inadequate plant mass.
3) Drop your photoperiod to 5 hours a day
4) Stop using plant tabs for now
5) Definately stop using Plant-Gro...people who have daphnia cultures PURPOSELY use Plant-Gro to induce green water to feed their cultures!
6) Get a ton more plants
7) Get a drop checker off eBay. Use it.
8) Bump your CO2 to ~30ppm
9) Read, read, read, read, read. You need to read more.

[fresh_newby]

epic reiterates what I said....do not add chemicals to your tank, unless you are adding a carbon source and dry pure ferts for your plants, but again, that is provided you have the plant mass to support even requiring to fert.
You should drain and start over....seriously....lower your photoperiod...
First and foremost....read ! www.rexgrigg.com it helps to know the basics.

[TTKarl]

Ok, i understand that I need to get the chemicals out. Just for background this was a low light 0.5 wpg moderatly planted tank about 60-70% of substrate is covered with plants for the past 3 years. Light is on for 8 hours a day Switched to 2 hours since my tank went radioactive looking

I am using diy co2 with a internal barr reactor. Plenty of bubbles and a little bit of co2 mist.

Hmmm, so plant-gro not so much huh? Thanks for that info EPIC!


Thinking about trying to switch to the EI method of ferts anyone had any experience with it?

[fresh_newby]

Ok, i understand that I need to get the chemicals out. Just for background this was a low light 0.5 wpg moderatly planted tank about 60-70% of substrate is covered with plants for the past 3 years. Light is on for 8 hours a day Switched to 2 hours since my tank went radioactive looking

I am using diy co2 with a internal barr reactor. Plenty of bubbles and a little bit of co2 mist.

Hmmm, so plant-gro not so much huh? Thanks for that info EPIC!


Thinking about trying to switch to the EI method of ferts anyone had any experience with it?
EI is great or high teck...since you are 0.5wpg, you will likely have anough PO4 and fish load for NO3, so maybe if I were you I would only add something like Flourish trace liquid every other day for a little while...or try Greg Watson CSM+B. DOn't do that plant gro or tabs for now. Know your plants first...see how they react. You can keep your lights on for 8 hours, no problem... 0.5wpg is hardly going to casue any problems...just stay away from the chemicals...

[TTKarl]

Ok, wow I think i'm really confusing everybody now sorry. All this occured when I went from 0.5wpg to 2.5wpg and added co2! So it is now at 2.5wpg and with diy co2.

[fresh_newby]

oh ok....2.5 is good...DIY CO2 is good....start over though...clean water. Leave your pH alone. That has nothing to do with anything. CO2 will lower your ph. What is your KH? If you have a low kh, you will have a low pH with CO2. Please do not add anything. Your green water; however has to do with the plant gro and the fert tabs. Get rid of them. Please read the guide I sent y ou www.rexgrigg.com IMO adding chemicals do nothing but stress your fish. Test your KH and get back to me. And I cannot stress enough, don't worry about your ph, particularly if it has a 6 handle on it......CO2 will lower your PH, that is the nature of using it....I keep mine at a steady 5.7.

[TTKarl]

KH is a little low at 2 degrees. I've heard crushed coral or baking soda will raise it. Any experience with either of these? Baking soda would be much more convienent, as my HOB doesn't have really anywhere to add it.

I also looked at the EI. The only thing about it i don't like is a 50% water change once a week. Using a tapwater filter it would take about an hour and thirty minutes. How bad would it be to limit it to 50% or to do it bi monthly?

[beviking]

It's all about balance. Some use 'modified EI' and do just as you ask...every other week or monthly water changes. Longer intervals between water changes allows a greater build-up of pollutants...that is why we do water changes right? To remove unwanted accumulation of different compounds that may inhibit optimal growth and life enjoyment for our aquatic pets :cool2:
You have to consider how much you are feeding, how many inhabitants are in the tank, how many/what type of plants, along with your lighting and nutrients.
Faster growing stem plants will use up more nutrients than slow growing rhizome plants. Just remember, plants don't use all the pollutants that accumulate in an aquaria.
For the sake of listing it, here is a great site without any dihydrogen monoxide bs...
http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/
:D

[fresh_newby]

KH is a little low at 2 degrees. I've heard crushed coral or baking soda will raise it. Any experience with either of these? Baking soda would be much more convienent, as my HOB doesn't have really anywhere to add it.

I also looked at the EI. The only thing about it i don't like is a 50% water change once a week. Using a tapwater filter it would take about an hour and thirty minutes. How bad would it be to limit it to 50% or to do it bi monthly?
add nothing KH of 2 is NOT low.

[epicfish]

KH is a little low at 2 degrees. I've heard crushed coral or baking soda will raise it. Any experience with either of these? Baking soda would be much more convienent, as my HOB doesn't have really anywhere to add it.

I also looked at the EI. The only thing about it i don't like is a 50% water change once a week. Using a tapwater filter it would take about an hour and thirty minutes. How bad would it be to limit it to 50% or to do it bi monthly?

Your kH is fine. Don't do anything to modify your kH unless your fish/livestock ABSOLUTELY need it...you'll just complicate life.

As for the WCs, just use Prime and add it as the water flows in from a Python or something. Any dechlorinator will work fine.

1. Drain tank.
2. Rinse tank + substrate.
3. Fill tank.
4. Add dechlorinator.
5. Cycle with or without plants.
6. Add livestock.

Don't complicate life.

[fresh_newby]

better yet...drain ... add Prime to low water , then turn the python back on to come back in. Prime can be used safely in high doses...so better to have it in your tank before adding the new water.