Cycling a new tank using an already established tank?

[MollyFan1]

I have my 20 gallon tank which is still sitting there gathering dust. I'm going to do a fishless cycle this time but I want my already established 10 gallon tank to help me cycle this 20 gallon tank. I read Rbishops post on cycling and taking some gravel or ornaments from my 10-gal to the 20-gal would help cycle it. I don't want to use gravel since I have different gravel that I want to put in my 20 gallon. Also, I don't understand about the filter media. What exactly do I do with my existing filter media to help grow bacteria on my new filter media?

[blackwolfXKAV]

Two things,

First, I would take whatever filter you plan on using and place it in the ten gallon for a few weeks; that should give it enough time to culture the appropriate bacteria.

Second, your ten gallon is OS, those mollies grow to 4", but hey, you've got a perfectly good 20 gallon...

Good luck, B.W.

[MollyFan1]

Thanks for the fast reply! I am planning on moving my mollies to this 20 gallon, they were the reason I got a bigger tank and I can't wait to see them in this new one, lol.

With the filter media, the 10 gallon filter media is smaller than the 20 gallon filter media. I would have to squeeze it into the 10 gallon filter. Would that cause any problems?

[blackwolfXKAV]

nah, just pop in the filter for the 20 gallon, and your all set for colonization, no need to keep moving the media

[MollyFan1]

oh that makes perfectly good sense, lol. Thank you! So it would make sense to just leave my 20 gallon sit without water for a few weeks till the filter is ready to use?

[webcricket]

oh that makes perfectly good sense, lol. Thank you! So it would make sense to just leave my 20 gallon sit without water for a few weeks till the filter is ready to use?

Yep, no sense filling it until you are just about ready to move the fish and filter over to it. I'd fill it maybe a day or two ahead to let any gravel dust settle and to give the heater a chance to get the water temperature warmed up.

[Mgamer20o0]

i would just run both filters on the for a week and move the filter over and finish with a fishless cycle. it will go really fast and i rather be safe then sorry. the filter jump starts the cycle and adding the ammonia will make sure a good size bacteria colony is grown. since you said it was just going to sit there for a few weeks.

[MollyFan1]

I've got both filters running on the 10 gallon. Next week I will move the filter into the 20 gallon and just add ammonia. Thanks for the help!

[johnlarson66]

Correct me if I am wrong, but if you already have used filter media that is coming from a well established tank, then you do not have to do a fishless or fishy cycle.

Make sure your temp is the same and add the fish. Also, by removing the mollies from your 10 gallon, it will stop that tank from having a mini-cycle with different filter media.

I would move the filter media and the fish at the same time.

Just do a few extra water changes the first week.

I am new to testing water, but the way I was started was to do exactly above, I did not know it was called cycling at the time. It was what the LFS suggested. I just took filters from a running tank and moved them on a new tank and did 20% water changes every three days for about 2 weeks. I went from a 29 gal to a 55 gal, with no losses. 7 years later most of those convicts are alive. (1 died last July while the person house sitting unplugged the filter. We came home to a tank full of fish gasping for air. The convicts are back in the 29 and with the mother-inlaw. We gave them and the tank to her when we moved. Still all alive.)

From what I have read here this way of "cycling" allows one to put fish in the quickest.

If I am mistaken, please correct.

[jbg]

I am completely new to aquariums and was just about to start a 55g tank using some media from a friend's well established tank. I was going to put in 5 danios at the time I add the established media. Then, what do I do to know if the tank is ready to receive more fish?

Your help is greatly appreciated,
Jack

[Reddog80p]

Test your tanks. If you tank is cycled it will read as 0 ammonia 0 nitrIte and more than 0 NitrAte. You can add fish if your tank is big enough(meaning not already overstocked). Your tank may spike a little but if you add fish slowly you will probably see little or no effects, If you do just do water changes to keep your fish safe, and new bacteria will catch up quickly. I would not recommend adding more fish until the tank is done cycling. If you were to do a fishless cycle, you could stock completely or close to completely after you finish cycling and do a water change.

[jbg]

Thank you Reddog80p.

Just to confirm that I understand you, I would expect the tank to have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and 0 nitrate at the very beginning, meaning it is not yet a cycled tank?? The introduction of say, 5 fish, will add some ammonia. Then, in several days, I should see some nitrite and then in several more days nitrates. Do the ammonia and nitrites decline togther or do they exit in the order they appeared?? Either way, when the ammonia and nitrite levels hit 0, then I have a cycled tank? All the while the bacteria colony is building and then it is safe to add more fish?

Regarding the water changes - how frequently and how much water are you suggesting? Is the main purpose of the water change to reduce the nitrate level? Once I get to that point, how frequently and how much water is appropriate to change? Thanks. I can see this is a very responsive and helpful community - glad I found you.
Jack

[Star_Rider]

you can use existing media, existing filter media(esp bioballs or ceramic media) or you can just squeeze gunk from an existing filter into the new filter. the cycle takes about 5 days to establish.
running the new filter on the existing tank too.

[Reddog80p]

Thank you Reddog80p.

Just to confirm that I understand you, I would expect the tank to have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and 0 nitrate at the very beginning, meaning it is not yet a cycled tank??

Yes, A newly started tank would have no readings at all, unless your tap water has these to begin which, some do.



The introduction of say, 5 fish, will add some ammonia. Then, in several days, I should see some nitrite and then in several more days nitrates. Do the ammonia and nitrites decline togther or do they exit in the order they appeared??

You will get nitrIte first, Bacteria will form and convert ammonia to nitrIte, then a different bacteria will form to convert the toxic nitrIte to less toxic NitrAte. Ammonia, NitrIte and NitrAte can be reduced by way of water changes. The NitrIte will dissapear as they are converted to nitrAte. You cannot completely remove NitrAtes. Just keep the nitrAtes under .40ppm for safety of fish/tank inhabitants.



Either way, when the ammonia and nitrite levels hit 0, then I have a cycled tank? All the while the bacteria colony is building and then it is safe to add more fish?

When you have 0 ammonia and 0 nitrItes and a NitrAte reading over .00 ppm you are cycled. Keep in mind that the bacteria that colonizes is only enough to cover the fish waste (ammonia) that is currently in the tank when finished cycling. When you add more fish you may have a mini-cycle for a few days or so, until the bacteria builds up more to convert the additional added fish waste. During this mini cycle you would do water changes as needed to keep the ammonia and nitrIte under .25ppm. and the nitrAte under .40ppm



Regarding the water changes - how frequently and how much water are you suggesting? Is the main purpose of the water change to reduce the nitrate level? Once I get to that point, how frequently and how much water is appropriate to change? Thanks. I can see this is a very responsive and helpful community - glad I found you.
Jack

Yes the main purpose of a water change is to reduce the ammonia, nitrIte and nitrAte. Most people recommend a 30-50% water change but it's really up to whatever the tank needs. Once you are fully stocked you change water whenever the nitrAte gets over .40ppm. I recommend weekly water changes. It helps keep your tank clean and your fish happy and healthy.

[jbg]

Thank you again reddog80p and star_rider.

[Reddog80p]

Here is a picture of the nitrogen cycle, If the tank is not planted the nitrAtes will be removed by water changes not plants. Even if it is planted water changes will help the plants consume nitrAtes.

[Star_Rider]

Here is a picture of the nitrogen cycle, If the tank is not planted the nitrAtes will be removed by water changes not plants. Even if it is planted water changes will help the plants consume nitrAtes.'




I'm not sure I understand the last part. how does a water change help the plants consume nitrates?

(just curious) :read:

[Reddog80p]

The plants can't consume it all, or guarantee safe levels can they? :rolleyes:

[Star_Rider]

The plants can't consume it all, or guarantee safe levels can they? :rolleyes:''

uh..actually they can remove nitrates to where they are non detectable with our tests.

I just was wondering about the part "even if it is planted water changes will help the plants consume nitrAtes"

so in planted aquaria using the nitrate levels to determine water changes is not a good rule to go by.

the plants, however, will not help reduce TDS(total dissovled solids)
so even in planted aquaria water changes are essential. as you will need to remove other pollutants we can't test for.