holey leaves on apono

[fishcatch22]

hey folks

for some reason my apono developed holes in some of it's leaves, which I then pruned. it seems that some other leaves are developing them. any ideas as to the cause? I know my pleco is not eat holes in them, I know her bite marks and these look nothing like them.

[ergo sum]

It is probably a nutrient deficiency. Potassium I think but I am not sure I remember that correctly.

[fishcatch22]

It is probably a nutrient deficiency. Potassium I think but I am not sure I remember that correctly.really? i don't dose ferts, maybe I should...

[ausername]

I had the same problem until i started doing weekly ferts.. a little potassium or K of the N - P - K. It will clear up in no time

[fishcatch22]

I had the same problem until i started doing weekly ferts.. a little potassium or K of the N - P - K. It will clear up in no timewhat brand should I buy? what do you mean by all these letters?

[ergo sum]

Common Symptoms of Nutrient Deficiencies (and Excesses)
When consulting this list of deficiences and excesses, please remember that many symptoms are possible, and that the ones given here should only be used as a clue in tracking down a problem in the planted tank, not as an absolute diagnosis.

Carbon dioxide deficiency — Small leaf size, slow growth, rough whitish deposits on plant leaves (from biogenic decalcification).

Nitrogen deficiency — Old leaves turn yellow, or occasionally reddish, due to the production of anthocyanin (this reddish pigment is only seen in tanks with very strong light levels).

Phosphorus deficiency — The symptoms here can be similar to those in nitrogen deficiency. There is leaf loss and small dead areas on older leaves.

Potassium deficiency — Yellow spots on older leaves, and withering of leaf tips and margins (also on older leaves first).

Calcium deficiency — Young leaves often have yellow margins. New growth is often deformed.

Magnesium deficiency — Yellow spots, first on older leaves. It can look very similar to iron deficiency.

Sulphur — Yellowing of the new leaves first. Red color from the production of anthocyanin possible in strong light.

Iron deficiency — Yellowing leaves, first at the growing tip. Leaves become brittle and transparent before they eventually disintegrate. Fast-growing plants, like Hygrophila sp., will show iron deficiency the fastest.

Manganese deficiency — Yellow areas between veins, while the veins themselves remain green. The tissue between the veins then dies, producing elongated holes in the leaves. These symptoms can also be seen in the presence of excess iron because this condition can block the uptake of manganese.

Copper deficiency — The tips of the leaves die and margins wither. Excess copper will kill a number of plants, including Vallisneria, Ludwigia, Sagittaria and others.

Zinc deficiency — Yellow areas appear between the veins, on the margins and at the leaf tip on older leaves.

Boron deficiency — Growth tips die. The plant produces side shoots, but these aslo die quickly.

Molybdenum deficiency — Yellow spots between veins on old leaves first. This is followed by brown areas along leaf margins. Flowering is inhibited.
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/ah_main/dec1997.html

[fishcatch22]

Common Symptoms of Nutrient Deficiencies (and Excesses)
When consulting this list of deficiences and excesses, please remember that many symptoms are possible, and that the ones given here should only be used as a clue in tracking down a problem in the planted tank, not as an absolute diagnosis.

Carbon dioxide deficiency — Small leaf size, slow growth, rough whitish deposits on plant leaves (from biogenic decalcification).

Nitrogen deficiency — Old leaves turn yellow, or occasionally reddish, due to the production of anthocyanin (this reddish pigment is only seen in tanks with very strong light levels).

Phosphorus deficiency — The symptoms here can be similar to those in nitrogen deficiency. There is leaf loss and small dead areas on older leaves.

Potassium deficiency — Yellow spots on older leaves, and withering of leaf tips and margins (also on older leaves first).

Calcium deficiency — Young leaves often have yellow margins. New growth is often deformed.

Magnesium deficiency — Yellow spots, first on older leaves. It can look very similar to iron deficiency.

Sulphur — Yellowing of the new leaves first. Red color from the production of anthocyanin possible in strong light.

Iron deficiency — Yellowing leaves, first at the growing tip. Leaves become brittle and transparent before they eventually disintegrate. Fast-growing plants, like Hygrophila sp., will show iron deficiency the fastest.

Manganese deficiency — Yellow areas between veins, while the veins themselves remain green. The tissue between the veins then dies, producing elongated holes in the leaves. These symptoms can also be seen in the presence of excess iron because this condition can block the uptake of manganese.

Copper deficiency — The tips of the leaves die and margins wither. Excess copper will kill a number of plants, including Vallisneria, Ludwigia, Sagittaria and others.

Zinc deficiency — Yellow areas appear between the veins, on the margins and at the leaf tip on older leaves.

Boron deficiency — Growth tips die. The plant produces side shoots, but these aslo die quickly.

Molybdenum deficiency — Yellow spots between veins on old leaves first. This is followed by brown areas along leaf margins. Flowering is inhibited.
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/ah_main/dec1997.htmlOK thanks... i'm still kind of a a newb when it comes to plants....

[fishcatch22]

so, all I need to do is buy a good fert supplemnt, and it will aleiviate my problems? should I use root tabs or liquid ferts?

[br553]

I assume by apono you mean aponogeton bulbs. If so, they are root feeders. If you do not already have a nutrient rich substrate, then you would want to use root tabs. If you have enough of a fish load, root tabs may not be necessary. I have about 30+ guppies in my 10g tank planted with just apons and a couple of dwarf lilies and I have rarely needed to use root tabs. The only time I do is if I have new apon seedlings taking root to give them an extra boost. You would also want to use liquid suppliments to make sure they are getting the neccesary N (nitrogen), P (phosphorus), and K (potassium). Most liquid fertilizers will contain the other trace nutrients that are needed.

[fishcatch22]

I assume by apono you mean aponogeton bulbs. If so, they are root feeders. If you do not already have a nutrient rich substrate, then you would want to use root tabs. If you have enough of a fish load, root tabs may not be necessary. I have about 30+ guppies in my 10g tank planted with just apons and a couple of dwarf lilies and I have rarely needed to use root tabs. The only time I do is if I have new apon seedlings taking root to give them an extra boost. You would also want to use liquid suppliments to make sure they are getting the neccesary N (nitrogen), P (phosphorus), and K (potassium). Most liquid fertilizers will contain the other trace nutrients that are needed.well, I dose excel, and have pretty high waste tank, so I assume my N and P are fine, so basically I need root tabs, potassium, and traces, right?

I have no idea why the book on aquarium plants I read didn't explain this....

[ergo sum]

It is all explained fairly well right here.
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12585

[fishcatch22]

well that doesn't really give me an opinion. I want the opinion of someoine in the know right now.

[br553]

In my opinion, and with the experience I have had with my own plants, you would want a potassium suppliment, root tabs, and trace nutrients. You can use NuSalt or NoSalt salt substitutes which contain potassium chloride. There is are topics on this forum that will tell you how to mix those up, but I am not sure where they are. I use Kent's K suppliment. It is more expensive but saves me the hassle of mixing. I dose 10ml of that every 2-3 days. For traces I use Hagen Plant Gro 2 times a week. I also dose Flourish Iron and Kent's Nitrogen once a week. I put new root tabs in about every 2 months. I also dose Excel every day.

I noticed before I started dosing potassium and iron, the leaves tended to be pale in color and often had holes in them. Since then, only the old or damaged leaves turn yellow. I have also had 2 crops of apon seedlings with a 3rd on the way. One of my dwarf lilies has split into 3 plants, all since I started adding fertz.