Please help! White spots all over 2 tetras; what do I do?

[Mahma]

I have white spots on two tetras.

Nothing has recently been added to the tank. (Well, I suppose that depends on the definition of recent...2 of the guppies were added about 3 weeks ago....) The PH is 7.0, Ammonia and Nitrite are 0.0, and Nitrate is between 10-20. 25% water changes are being done one a week. We have finally got this stable - we thought.

But my son just noticed lots of white spots on the two white-tipped tetras. Ich? Looks like a rash - full body.

What do I do? (I don't think I have time for much research, as I know ich spreads quickly...and then I don't know which of the differing advice to follow.) Helppppppp...please?!?!?!?!?!?!?

(If this is ich...does it come in and show up 3weeks later? If so, that's just cause for isolation tanks...we just haven't figured out how to set up a second tank too...yet.)

TIA! Mahma

[boulderman1]

don't panic, this is a common problem, just go and buy yourself come Quick Cure or any other good ich remedy at your lfs and treat the entire tank per the label's instructions, ich is said to be in an aquarium at all times, and only when fish become stresed enough, does ich appear, treating the entire tank is the best in order to help prevent any of your other fish from getting infected, a UV sterilizer is a good option to keep the chance of future infestations down

good luck

[webcricket]

Yes, it can show up 3 weeks later. Ich has a life cycle, and the parasite could just now be showing up on the fish.

I recommend the heat/salt method to treat ich. I have successfully used this method to treat sensitive fish and even a planted tank with zero fish/plant loss - no chemicals involved.

To start, do a big water change (40-50%) and gravel vac really well.

For heat, raise the tank temperature to 82-84 degrees. Do this slowly, maybe 2 degrees at most every 8 to 10 hours. The heat increases the speed of the ich life cycle. You may need to add an air pump and air stone as the heated water will not carry as much oxygen.

You can use regular table salt and do not need aquarium specific salt (though it is best if the salt does not contain iodine, some say it is harmless though)...add in 2 tablespoons per gallon of water. If this is a 30 gallon tank, let's assume it actually holds more like 27 gallons of water. You will add in 54 tablespoons of salt total. Do this gradually, maybe 10 tablespoons every 5 to 6 hours. Dissolve the salt in some of the tank water first.

Of course if the fish show any signs of stress, slow down and wait several hours before continuing the process. Expect to treat for a minimum of 21 days, and at least 7 days after the last white spot disappears. You can and should do your normal water changes during this time, just be sure to add enough salt back in to the tank to account for the water you took out during the water change. The ich may get worse before it gets better - the fish are already infected and you will see new white spots show up before things get better. The salt will get the ich when it falls off the fish and gets to the free-swimming portion of the life cycle.

[Daudzegier]

I would use kosher salt cuz you can trust that it will have no other "secret" additives.... because its Kosher. Plus it doesnt have iodine in it witch at some levels has been known to harm fish.

[Mahma]

don't panic, this is a common problem, just go and buy yourself come Quick Cure or any other good ich remedy at your lfs and treat the entire tank per the label's instructions, ich is said to be in an aquarium at all times, and only when fish become stresed enough, does ich appear, treating the entire tank is the best in order to help prevent any of your other fish from getting infected, a UV sterilizer is a good option to keep the chance of future infestations down

good luck

Thanks for your ideas and encouragement. Since no stores are open now, I guess I can ask a question. What's a UV sterilizer? TIA

[Mahma]

Yes, it can show up 3 weeks later. Ich has a life cycle, and the parasite could just now be showing up on the fish.

I recommend the heat/salt method to treat ich. I have successfully used this method to treat sensitive fish and even a planted tank with zero fish/plant loss - no chemicals involved.

To start, do a big water change (40-50%) and gravel vac really well.

For heat, raise the tank temperature to 82-84 degrees. Do this slowly, maybe 2 degrees at most every 8 to 10 hours. The heat increases the speed of the ich life cycle. You may need to add an air pump and air stone as the heated water will not carry as much oxygen.

You can use regular table salt and do not need aquarium specific salt (though it is best if the salt does not contain iodine, some say it is harmless though)...add in 2 tablespoons per gallon of water. If this is a 30 gallon tank, let's assume it actually holds more like 27 gallons of water. You will add in 54 tablespoons of salt total. Do this gradually, maybe 10 tablespoons every 5 to 6 hours. Dissolve the salt in some of the tank water first.

Of course if the fish show any signs of stress, slow down and wait several hours before continuing the process. Expect to treat for a minimum of 21 days, and at least 7 days after the last white spot disappears. You can and should do your normal water changes during this time, just be sure to add enough salt back in to the tank to account for the water you took out during the water change. The ich may get worse before it gets better - the fish are already infected and you will see new white spots show up before things get better. The salt will get the ich when it falls off the fish and gets to the free-swimming portion of the life cycle.

Thanks for your thoughts too! What am I going to do if everyone disagrees on the course of treatment? How will I know what to do? The first poster says additive, now salt and heat, and then? I am such a novice...I don't like the learning curve...I just want a definite algorithm. LOL! Thanks for your advice!

[Mahma]

I would use kosher salt cuz you can trust that it will have no other "secret" additives.... because its Kosher. Plus it doesnt have iodine in it witch at some levels has been known to harm fish.

Thanks for your thoughts! Is API Aquarium Salt good? (I happen to have it, but have been told to "never, ever use it again" by a self-proclaimed fish expert....) TIA!

[Blueiz]

Thanks for your thoughts too! What am I going to do if everyone disagrees on the course of treatment? How will I know what to do? The first poster says additive, now salt and heat, and then? I am such a novice...I don't like the learning curve...I just want a definite algorithm. LOL! Thanks for your advice!

Use the salt/heat method, workse everytime..;)

BTW, ordinary table salt is fine. The level of iodine in the small amounts it will be used in to treat ich will not harm a thing..

Read this.. (http://aquafacts.net/wiki/index.php/Ich)

Blue

[webcricket]

The API aquarium salt will work fine. Good luck! Keep us posted.

[boulderman1]

i always use API salt, a UV sterilizer is a ultra violet bulb in a housing that can be attached to filter tubing (like that on a canister filter) the water passes through the UV sterilizer and is exposed to the light which kills micro-organisms like parasites, basically, using Quick Cure or something is a little more stressful than the heat/salt method, but it does a better job, you could try heat/salt but if it doesn't work, then just use Quick Cure or something to get rid of it for sure

good luck

[FireDancer7905]

Here is a great article that Mgamer2000 suggested to me about treating with heat and salt. http://aquafacts.net/wiki/index.php/Ich It is really very helpful and has a fabulous explanation of how/why it shwos up in the first place. Once again, thansk Mgamger!

[Mahma]

Here is a great article that Mgamer2000 suggested to me about treating with heat and salt. http://aquafacts.net/wiki/index.php/Ich It is really very helpful and has a fabulous explanation of how/why it shwos up in the first place. Once again, thansk Mgamger!

Thanks...this was helpful!

[Mahma]

The API aquarium salt will work fine. Good luck! Keep us posted.

Woke up to one dead tetra.... (I started the heat very late last night, and was going to start the salt this morning ASAP.)

Thanks for the support. I need it, as the tetras are "Thing One" and "Thing Two," and they belong to my five year old, who will cry his eyes out.

[Blueiz]

One thing to note, for future reference if you ever have it agai, or for those reading this. Te main reason to raise the temperature while treating ich is to speed the life cycle of the ich. It would be best to either add the salt first , the raise the temp, or do them simultaneously. I personally have never raised the temp in my tank when treating for ich, takes longer for the ich to complete its cycle..thats just a preference I have as I have no heaters in my tanks. Raising the temp alone will kill the ich if held at a certaing temp (84 i think) til seven days after all spots are gone. It would be virtually impossible to be certain your temperature hasn't dropped without special equipment to test the temp of the water, and lots of fish don't do well with temps that high (goldfish for example).

In simple terms, when using the salt heat method, the salt is used to kill the ich, the temp is raised to speed the life cycle of ich and is not a must (will have to treat for ~ an extra week if temp isnt raised)

Blue

[Mahma]

One thing to note, for future reference if you ever have it agai, or for those reading this. Te main reason to raise the temperature while treating ich is to speed the life cycle of the ich. It would be best to either add the salt first , the raise the temp, or do them simultaneously. I personally have never raised the temp in my tank when treating for ich, takes longer for the ich to complete its cycle..thats just a preference I have as I have no heaters in my tanks. Raising the temp alone will kill the ich if held at a certaing temp (84 i think) til seven days after all spots are gone. It would be virtually impossible to be certain your temperature hasn't dropped without special equipment to test the temp of the water, and lots of fish don't do well with temps that high (goldfish for example).

In simple terms, when using the salt heat method, the salt is used to kill the ich, the temp is raised to speed the life cycle of ich and is not a must (will have to treat for ~ an extra week if temp isnt raised)

Blue

This makes sense. I understand why the salt should precede the heat. Wow, I am learning. (And they say you can't teach an old dog new tricks....)

My tank doesn't hold heat very well overnight, although it stays well within the safe range. But it didn't raise much overnight anyway....

FWIW, when I told my 5-yr-old about the dead tetra, he looked over my shoulder (presumably at the tank), and said, "Can I have some of that popcorn over there?" Kids. My worry about his feelings was apparently not that necessary. (And then, when I least expect it, they cry over "nothing.") Well...back to fish stuff....

I added 6.5 tsp. of API salt via diluted tank water and introduced with the bio-wheel. I will do another 6.5 in an hour, etc.

Thanks to everyone for the help!!!! :clap:

[DebbyS]

When I had my first (and so far only) ich outbreak, I increased the temperature from around 78 to 82-84 & I used sea salt I had on hand for my own cooking use (bought at health food store in bulk). I wound up adding maybe 2-3 Tablespoons for a 10-gallon tank. It worked quickly on the black neon tetras. The only other fish in the tank were pygmy cories who showed no ich, though I kind of suspect the bit of pet-store water I unavoidably added to the tank with the cories may have had some ich in it -- or ich more adventurous than what might have already been dormant in the tank. After a few days there was no more sign of ich (it had show on one BN, then spread to the others -- then it disappeared), but I waited another two weeks or more, slowly decreasing the temp back to 78, to add some glow light tetras. If I ever get ich again, I'll go the same routine :)

[Blueiz]

Just make sure you treat for the full amount of time. Ich cannot be killed while it is on the fish. Even if the spots are gone from the fish, it is still in the tank. Lots of ppl don't treat for the full amount of time and keep getting ich continuously..thats where the myth that ich lies dormant in the tank, or that it is a naturally occuring parasite in fish tanks comes from. When in all reality the ich was never truly killed to begin with because the treatment was stopped prematurely..

Blue

[webcricket]

I added 6.5 tsp. of API salt via diluted tank water and introduced with the bio-wheel. I will do another 6.5 in an hour, etc.

Thanks to everyone for the help!!!! :clap:

Oh good, I'm glad you are doing teaspoons and not tablespoons! I mistyped last night (shouldn't type tired) when I replied to you!

As others have said, go the full treatment even if the fish look better. It's always tempting to just stop, but then the infection will keep coming back. Hopefully you won't lose any more fish!

[Mahma]

Oh good, I'm glad you are doing teaspoons and not tablespoons! I mistyped last night (shouldn't type tired) when I replied to you!

As others have said, go the full treatment even if the fish look better. It's always tempting to just stop, but then the infection will keep coming back. Hopefully you won't lose any more fish!

Thanks again! (I never even noticed your TBSP vs. tsp. I just followed the instruction from that attached link someone listed. Whew.... So far no more losses. :dance2:

[Mahma]

Is this enough? (I know to continue the salt with water changes and cont. the elevated temp for a while....) But should I really add in more salt? TIA

[pokagon55]

it is recommended that three doses are given at 12 hour intervals. 1 teaspoon salt per gal. of water. Keep this in for two to four weeks with no water change.

[jamie1972]

Stick to the salt and heat. It has worked for me twice. DARN wal mart fish.

[Mahma]

Keep this in for two to four weeks with no water change.

????

I thought I was to continue with regular water changes, simply replacing the removed salt in the new water that goes in...so the salt levels remain the same. Is there some reason I should not do water changes for so long? Thanks.

[Mgamer20o0]

i would keep up the water changes and add the salt back in just like you were thinking you should.

[Shagmaster]

i would keep up the water changes and add the salt back in just like you were thinking you should.

I agree.

[Mahma]

Here is a great article that Mgamer2000 suggested to me about treating with heat and salt. http://aquafacts.net/wiki/index.php/Ich It is really very helpful and has a fabulous explanation of how/why it shwos up in the first place. Once again, thansk Mgamger!


Hello! I cannot follow this think, and wish I had printed a hard copy. Do you happen to have another link, or can you attach a copy somehow?

(Guess what showed up in our isolation tank -- 24 hours before we were to move our new tetras -- again, tetras -- into our large aquarium? Three cheers for an isolation tank!!!)

TIA!
Mahma