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Glass

Discussion in 'Freshwater Equipment, Products, & DIY' started by garyfla, Jan 31, 2012.

  1. garyfla

    garyfla AC Members

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    Hi
    was given a piece of glass that was used as half of an entryway in a commercial building. It measures
    78x30 x 3/4 thick. was thinking about building a tank with it . feel confident that it could hold water at
    30 inch depth unless there's something I don't know about glass.
    Two problems concern me . #1 There are 5 inch wide panels of what I believe are stainless steel that held the hinges at the top and bottom. They appear to be held in place by some sort of adhesive but I can't even get a butter knife under it. Any ideas on how to get this off?? If it is stainless I could probably leave it attached??
    #2 There are two 1 inch holes about 8 inches apart on the long side . Any ideas on how to handle that?? Could probably use them for the filtration system but they would be right in front..
    was thinking of building a plywood tank to fir .. Thanks for any help!!! gary
     
  2. Rbishop

    Rbishop The glistening drop....
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    Pictures?
     
  3. SubRosa

    SubRosa Banned

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    Given the original use of the glass it's most likely tempered, but if not I'd cut away the complications and work with a plain piece of glass.
     
  4. garyfla

    garyfla AC Members

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    Hi
    Not only tempered also tinted. Not sure about cutting a piece that thick anyway ,. Would be best to get rid of the metal..
    Think I'll ask a glass co . It may be Carbolite but not sure how to tell.
    You want pix of a regtangular sheet of glass ??. Not much to look at lol Thanks gary
     
  5. missmeliss

    missmeliss Addicted to Aquariums

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    They want the pics to see where the holes are and how/where the metal is attached :cool:
     
  6. SMinNC

    SMinNC What you give

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    Isn't it the "Tempered" type that we Don't drill?
    If so, I'm guessing the Holes are telling us it isn't tempered?
     
  7. Bushkill

    Bushkill Registered Member

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    Special application glass like this is often tempered after being drilled. Same thing with "reef-ready" tanks.

    There are ways to tell if glass is tempered, but if these are tinted as well I'm not sure I would trust anyone's advise other than the manufacturer in any event.

    If you've got a real steady hand, you might be able to cut the metal away, and I agree it should be removed unless you can work around it. If it doesn't come very far down the panel a possibility would be to just leave them and start the end panels where the stainless trim ends. You'll be making a custom stand in any event, so maybe you can just allow for it and cover it in some fashion.

    I'm going to guess the holes are from the door handles. If they are as close to an edge as I'm thinking, why would that have to be the front edge? I would just flip it, and use them as plumbing drains for a center overflow.

    I'm sure these these weigh a TON. If you decide to go further with this, make sure they aren't transported horizontally for even a few feet. They need to be carried vertically, or you'll find out real fast if it was tempered or not.
     
  8. SMinNC

    SMinNC What you give

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    Aahhh hah!
    Sneaky ain't they. : /
     
  9. Bushkill

    Bushkill Registered Member

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    Yeah, I scratched my head over that one for a while until someone in the tank-building business told me a long time ago. Actually aside from the cost of the overflows, etc, it's one of the bigger driver for reef-ready tanks costing more. Tanks made that way aren't like the cookie-cutter non reef-ready ones.
     
  10. garyfla

    garyfla AC Members

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    Hi
    Thought I"d clarified that on the original post . The panels are 5 inches wide at the top and bottom . They held the hinges They are U shaped and go over the short edge but not on the long. The two 1 inch holes are located at 33
    inches from the the short edge 2 1/2 CL from long edge . They held acrylic handles.
    Bushkill Top or bottom would still be in the center of the viewing area?? Would be particularly distracting at the top. as in overflow ?? Could be plugged when reversed but would still cut into the viewing area.
    Was told it is made of high impact glass which is city code due to hurricanes. Though I have these type windows in my house have been unable to find info on how this varies from regular plate. Any ideas. ??
    Don't think it matters much as I feel certain it could hold the weight.
    I made a box for it of 2x4's for tansport as well as storage so it can be kept upright . They broke the other half of the door when they removed it which is the reason I got it for free.lol I'm guessing it weighs around 150 pounds!!
    Thanks for the help. gary
     
  11. Bushkill

    Bushkill Registered Member

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    OK, I think I have a better picture of how the handles were set in this door. I think I'm not the only one that pictured a pair of vertical handles with both holes relatively close to where the two panels would've met in the doorway. It seems these handles were set "towel bar" style (parallel to the short ends)? If I'm right here, I'm thinking this can at best be a bottom pane that can't be drilled. 5 inches on either end is a lot to compensate for/cover up but that's your call. I know I make lots of compromises (I call it getting creative) when I come across free stuff, but it's an aesthetics thing in the end. Regardless of what type of glass, you should be able to patch the holes in a snap. Any glass shop should be able to supply 3/8" square patches you can just silicone in place. The majority of glass shops don't work with 1/2", but a few do. I can't comment on how tempered vs hi-impact differ, but if you go the glass patch route, the guy at the glass shop should be able to give you a 3 sentence answer for free. As for carrying it vertically, the company a couple of stories above my office moved out a couple of years ago and I saw them carrying out the glass doors. What happened to the one they carried out horizontally was both funny and scary at the same time.
     
  12. garyfla

    garyfla AC Members

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    Hi
    Comedy of misunderstanding yet again lol But no matter lol The holes don't concern me too much as could always be plugged was hoping there would be some creative ideas on how to utilize them.?? I put a grinder on the metal at the top and bottom and got quite a fireworks display so they are definitely SS rather than aluminum. Could certainly use that in Fw particularly since it doesn't lap around the the edge Could coat it with polymer or fiberglass resin . Glass co. want 75 bucks x 2 to cut them off . That's 3/4 inch thick btw. Was thinking of making the tank 78 inches to exactly accomodate the panel, and cover the exterior with tile work. Thinking of building the stand directly into the the box to strebgthen and of course elevate it to viewing height.
    I built one many years ago using EPDM polymer (pond liner } sandwiching it between the panels. It failed not from leaks as you might suspect but a failure of the plywood on onr short end. I'm rather stoked to try this again but with a MUCH better grade of pplywood lol The tank will be setup out in the garden so will plan on electrical and plumbing.. I'm think
    78x30 with the 30 inch depth as this would fit into a block wall. Anyway thanks for the help!!! gary
     

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