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RO DI Issues -_-'

Discussion in 'Marine Equipment, Products, & DIY' started by Fishfriend1, Jan 4, 2012.

  1. Fishfriend1

    Fishfriend1 Fishlover Extraordinaire

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    As is my luck, I got a $250 4 stage 50 gph RO DI unit. There is an issue. Okay, several.

    Issue 1: NO RO DI! - The thing produced about 5 gallons of wastewater in about 5 hours, but not a drop of actual pure RO DI water... I'm pretty sure I hooked it all up right, I followed the directions to the letter... this issue is with the horizontal top canister piece thingy, which can be seen in the link to the product I got.

    Issue 2: WTF, It leaks? - Yep, the 4th stage, which needed assembly to attach it to the actual unit, leaks. It has a large screw-on part, and I can't get it any tighter screwed on then it is, not without a body builder to try it out... but it still leaks. When I had too much water being forced into the RO DI unit, it sprayed water all up the wall, and even when turned all the way down it had a steady drip of water coming out of the seam where the cap and the rest of the container for the 4th stage meet.

    Unit is a Corallife 4 Stage 50gph unit. Found here: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4395+12093&pcatid=12093

    So, anyone here know what I did wrong?
     
  2. Cheech

    Cheech Global Moderator
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    I would call the company and ask them for advice. But in the meantime, for the leak, you should use Teflon tape. It'll help seal the threads when screwing the piece together.

    When your water is open, is the pressure very low? You need enough water pressure to go through the RODI unit. Worse case, they sell booster pumps to increase the pressure going into your unit.

    before purchasing anything though, I would call to make sure you installed the unit correctly.

    *Edit: The water that splurts out, is that where the city water (from the sink) connects to the RODI unit? If so, make sure you have a gasket between the water supply and connector:

    [​IMG]

    Mine sometimes falls out when I unscrew it and I get the same leaks as you mentioned.
     
  3. Fishfriend1

    Fishfriend1 Fishlover Extraordinaire

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    The pressure is way high... if it didn't leak I'd think that I'd have jets of water coming out of the tubes, TBH. I was actually more worried about too much pressure then not enough. I'll see if I can contact the manufacturer, and if I can get some teflon tape for it too.

    The leak isn't in the part where it attaches to the sink, it's in the main body of the RO DI. There are 3 vertical canisters, those all seem to work fine. It's the horizontal one that has the leak, in order to install the 4th filter I needed to remove a cap piece, and then I put it back on (as per instructions), but it's been leaking at the seam where the cap attaches to the main part of the canister...
     
  4. Jody

    Jody AC Members

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    There should be a rubber O Ring on each canister , you dont need to use the wrench for tightening the canisters if its working right its more for unscrewing and also puting tape on the threads is not fixing the problem as the threads are not the seal the O-Ring is. also if your unit came with a back flush kit , is it open you well get waste water but no RO water and it would be kinda high pressure from the waste side , On top of the unit there should be a small plastic valve if the handle is inline with the valve body its open. it need to be closed for normal operation

    Just to make sure your link shows the 100 GPH with pump is that your or is it the Pure-Flo II - 50 gallon-per-day system ?

    I'm trying to remember that setup but i do think the O Rings are in a grove on the canister housing make sure its not damaged as check the canister base inside where the O Ring would seal see if there so inpefections in the sealing surface or maybe dirt in there. Could as be a under size O ring look at the canister and see if the O Ring is above the surface of the grove it might not be making contact when you screw it in. Also check that the height of the leaking canister is screwed in the same depth as the two canisters that don't leak you may have thread damge if its not making the same depth as the others

    Hope this helps and let us know if you have success
     
    #4 Jody, Jan 4, 2012
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2012
  5. Fishfriend1

    Fishfriend1 Fishlover Extraordinaire

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    It's the 50gph 4 stage. The leaking canister is horizontally placed on top of the device.

    ==== <---- issue canister
    [][][] <---- working canisters

    ________________ Leak Here
    ------------------ -------- --- \/
    |=================||==|
    |----------4th Filter-----------|Cap}
    |=================||==|

    The above is the actual 4th canister that has the issue, the others are fine.
     
  6. Fishfriend1

    Fishfriend1 Fishlover Extraordinaire

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    Well, it still leaks, but it's more of a non-issue now. By using an ingenious and complex set up consisting of 3 unused filter covers, a flower pot water catcher, and an old yogurt container, I have managed to get the spray of water to be caught and then funneled down into the utility sink, which is where I've relocated the entire unit (hanging on the inside of it by a few large hooks). All the leaking water goes down the drain, it's a temporary fix so that I can get my RO DI right now for when I set up my 40b Salty Tank. I'm still on the lookout for advice on how to stop the leak itself.
     
  7. Jody

    Jody AC Members

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    Ok

    So that's your membrane that's leaking, is it on the fitting where you push the hose in , i guess they are push on fittings ? If so you can remove the hose from the fitting and check out the end see if any damage something like out of round or burrs, best thing to do is cut back around 1 inch with a utility knife sharper the better make sure it is cut even and not out of round then push it into the fitting and don't force it

    A pic of the leaking part would go a long way

    Did you get the unit to produce RODI water yet ?
     
  8. Fishfriend1

    Fishfriend1 Fishlover Extraordinaire

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    The leak isn't on the hose part, it's where the cap piece and the main container for the membrane meet. The seal there isn't holding back water. AFAIK, all the hoses aren't leaking. They are... screw ons? They have a sort of little cap that screws into place and holds the hose in place. I'll get a pic of the leaking piece tonight, when I can start working on it again.

    As for RODI water, yes, about 5 gallons, 2 or so of which leaked onto the floor cause I used the wrong tote to hold the water :/ I'll be using a 30tall tonight for the RODI, while I work on getting my good tote empty of books and full of water :)

    A random-ish question: is RODI still chlorinated?
     
  9. the wizard

    the wizard Is it really Niko's fault?

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    If you over tightened the membrane to the cap, you probably damaged the O ring (seal). Did you disassemble it and check the seal as was suggested?
     
  10. Fishfriend1

    Fishfriend1 Fishlover Extraordinaire

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    The instructions told me to just slide the membrane into the container for it and then re-screw the cap... so I'm not entirely sure where the membrane attaches to the cap. However, I did disassemble the problem piece and re-assemble it, I couldn't find anything wrong (like torn threading or missing parts) but I'm not exactly and expert. I can take a pic of the assembly tonight when I get home, to help figure out the issue, both the outside, when running, and the inside of it...
     
  11. Jody

    Jody AC Members

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    your membrane is not seating proper or damage to the O Rings or sealing surface

    on your membrane there should be two small O rings on one end and that inserts first ( if i remember right) you need to push that in and allow for the two o rings to mate with the sealing surface inside the canister, you should feel some resistance when the O rings start to seal at that point you well need to push it in another 1/2 inch or so , The nipple with the O rings on the membrane has to slot into a tube as such, On the other end of your membrane the end with the thread on the canister there should be a seal or some kinda of rubber ring that apart of the membrane and that seals the other end of the canister and the threaded cap holds it in place.

    I am thinking your membrane is not inserted in all the way

    This is all from memory and cant say what i just said is all true :)

    your carbon filter well remove chlorine and if you have chlormain you well need a chlormain filter both are bad for your membrane

    you can find out from your water dept.
     
    #11 Jody, Jan 5, 2012
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2012
  12. Jody

    Jody AC Members

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    is this membrane similar to yours ? if so make sure both ends are sealed good

    T2114 Membrane TFC Reverse Osmosis Membrane.jpg
     
  13. Fishfriend1

    Fishfriend1 Fishlover Extraordinaire

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    Thats the exact modle. I now need to go and once again manage to pull that out and replace it inside the container part. I'll see if there are any changes...
     
  14. Fishfriend1

    Fishfriend1 Fishlover Extraordinaire

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    Well, guess what? It won't come off. I've pretty much given up on the entire unit at this point and may ask for a replacement membrane and canister part and see what happens... I didn't even have it on all that tight, it just won't unscrew now...so I'm incapable of removing the membrane. And yes, I used a wrench. Didn't work any more then my hands...
     
  15. Jody

    Jody AC Members

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    You can try and pour warm to hot water over the threaded area that should loosen it up some and make sure there is no pressure inside the canister that well also keep the threads tight

    if you can send the unit back and get the refund just tell them its not working out for you

    and get this one, This is the unit i have and it comes fully assembled and had it for two years now and works great , Im not knocking corlife but you payed more then you need just for the name

    http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/75-gpd-ro-di-5-stage-standard-system.html

    or you can build your own system

    http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/build-your-own-ro-system.html
     
  16. Fishfriend1

    Fishfriend1 Fishlover Extraordinaire

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    Well, I had a gift certificate for F&S, so I used it to buy this. I suppose I'll have to refund it now, but before I give up on it entirely I'll try the warm water method. As for price, **** that's cheap, and 5 stage! I also noticed a 6 stage delux for about the same price as the basic 4 stage :shakehead: I'll be seeing what I can find there, but the one you linked is out of stock. Ah well, I see a different one that is still cheaper then the corallife one. I'll get my money back if I can't manage to open up the corallife tonight.
     
  17. Cheetos

    Cheetos AC Members

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    Sounds like you got a defective unit! You would be better off getting one with a DI canister as well.
     
  18. Fishfriend1

    Fishfriend1 Fishlover Extraordinaire

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    Yep. I'm returning the unit ASAP, probs gonna spend the money on a cheaper unit that works twice as well. Bet I'll get the gift certificate back, so I'll have to see if it works on Live Aquaria as well as F&S.
     
  19. Jody

    Jody AC Members

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    I hope it all works out for you

    also do you know what your TDS is is from your tap if its 200 or less the RO if working right it well bring that down to 3-4 TDS and the DI unit well bring to 0 TDS

    so is the DI unit really needed ? My TDS from my RO is 3 so i don't even use my DI anymore

    TDS meter is a must so you can monitor you membranes health and also a back flush kit is a good add on and very cheap if not already installed

    Good Luck
     
  20. Arakkis

    Arakkis AC Members

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    I usually buy mine from a hydroponics shop, its cheaper for the same thing
     

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