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test kit database, FAQ

Discussion in 'Freshwater Equipment, Products, & DIY' started by orthikon, Dec 5, 2005.

  1. orthikon

    orthikon AC Members

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    Hi,

    I would like to compile a database of test kits since I am not quite satisfied with my tetra test (see pic).

    For each test kit (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph, gh, kh, iron, phosphate, c02, etc.) please specify the brand and post the scale and/or a pic of the color charts. Now I know that these kits are not that accurate but at least we could look for the best one out there.

    I'm looking for something with a smaller increment in scale with colors that are not too close of a shade to each other (see my ph test and ammonia). The Aquapharm master kit seems to be sufficient regarding the scale but I do not know the colors in it. So if anyone can take a pic of the cards that info is highly appreciated and will be added to the database/FAQ

    [​IMG]

    Thanks.

    -Jon

    -------------------------------------------------------
    database/FAQ:


    aquarium pharmaceuticals freshwater master test kit.
    thanks to RockabillyChick and Puffernewbee

    Ammonia - 0ppm, .25, .50, 1.0, 2.0, 4.0, 8.0
    Nitrite - 0ppm, .25, .50, 1.0, 2.0, 5.0
    Nitrate - 0ppm, 5.0, 10, 20, 40, 80, 100
    pH Low - 6.0, 6.4, 6.6, 6.8, 7.0, 7.2, 7.6
    pH high - 7.4, 7.8, 8.0, 8.2, 8.4, 8.8
     
    #1 orthikon, Dec 5, 2005
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2005
  2. kveeti

    kveeti Easily amused

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    This is the Hagen Ammonia test kit, NH3/NH4. Note they have a couple different kinds, this is the one in the orange box for "Fresh & Salt Water." It has 3 regents. The plus is the lowest reading as 0.1 - the minus, you have to wait 20 minutes for the result.

    In case you can't read the numbers on the pic, they are in the following increments:

    0, 0.1, 0.3, 0.6, 1.2, 2.4, 3.7, 6.1

    I have some (new) AP tests as well. I'll take pics and post soon.
    http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1180446&postcount=13
     

    Attached Files:

    #2 kveeti, Dec 7, 2005
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2007
  3. kveeti

    kveeti Easily amused

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    Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit pics:

    1. Ammonia
    Edit... Note this is the salicylate test kit with 2 regents.

    2. NitrIte

    3. NitrAte

    Follow attachments in order.
     

    Attached Files:

    #3 kveeti, Dec 7, 2005
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2007
  4. kveeti

    kveeti Easily amused

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    Last pics.

    Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Ammonia Test kit. This is the Nessler test with only 1 regent. Lowest reading above zero is .5 to 1.0. With that minimum, only good for fishless cycling, I think.

    Hagen pH Low Range Fresh Water

    Follow attachments in order.
     

    Attached Files:

    #4 kveeti, Dec 7, 2005
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2007
  5. chefkeith

    chefkeith Loach Inspector

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    Aquarium Pharmaceuticals
    [​IMG]

    Jungle Labs Quick Dip Tests-
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. kveeti

    kveeti Easily amused

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  7. Gomisan

    Gomisan Man in a hat

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  8. Rip

    Rip AC Members

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    Red Sea Freshwater Test Kits

    Here are the charts from the 'Red Sea Fresh Lab Deluxe'

    It contains 8 tests and 2 planted tank supplements:-

    1. Ph low range 6.2-7.4 and high range 7.4-8.6. 100 tests each
    2. Ammonia/Ammonium. 60 tests
    3. Nitrite. 60 tests
    4. GH. 25 tests approx
    5. KH. 25 tests approx
    6. Iron. 60 tests
    7. CO2. 35 tests
    8. Chlorine/Chloramine. 60 tests
    9. Sample 15ml bottle of Flora Gro
    10. Sample 15ml bottle of Flora 24 daily additive

    Each test comes with a short but informative leaflet on how to use the test, interpretation of result and how to remedy the situation if needed.

    In general the colours are easy enough to match to the chart in daylight but I find it a little more difficult in fluorescent and incandescent lighting.

    With the Chlorine test I get a reading of 0 from tap water which I find hard to believe!

    Red Sea Ph Low
    [​IMG]

    Red Sea Ph High
    [​IMG]

    Red Sea Ammonia/Ammonium
    [​IMG]

    Red Sea Nitrite
    [​IMG]

    Red Sea GH
    [​IMG]

    Red Sea KH
    [​IMG]

    Red Sea Iron
    [​IMG]

    Red Sea CO2
    [​IMG]

    Red Sea Chlorine/Chloramine
    [​IMG]


    .
     
  9. kody1192

    kody1192 AC Members

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    NutraFin Test Master Lab Kit

    anyone used this (NutraFin Test Master Lab Kit) its a liquid test seems pretty good im gonna try it
    Tests for ammonia, calcium, nitrate, phosphate, nitrite, ph, iron, carbonate hardness, and general hardness. 9 instructions booklets, 5 glass test tubes with caps, 2 pipettes, and 1 spoon. only other test you would need is chlorine
    *edit* actually i think im gonna go with the Red Sea Deluxe Freshwater Lab Kit seems it has more test
     
    #9 kody1192, Mar 9, 2006
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2006
  10. saganco

    saganco RIP my precious kitty baby

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    For NITRATE: I currently use the AP test kit, but have a dickens of a time trying to tell which one it is if it gets past 10, but the colors are so hard to distinguish. All orange/reds and just a variety of intensities of the same colors! Does anyone know of one that is more like the nitrite - blues, lavenders, etc... where the colors are different for the levels and not just various shades of the same color? The ph chart is a good example, it's easy to tell which one. I hope someone can help - I'm so tired of straining my eyes. The ammonia one isn't really easy either. We just go with the top two (it never gets below the second one down - .25) - and say... does it have ANY green in it or not? That's the only way we can get that one either.

    Any "easier on the eyes" suggestions would be ever so much appreciated! Someone must make a nitrate test kit that has different colors rather than darker and lighter shades of the same colors???
     
  11. TEL

    TEL AC Members

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    I am wondering how long do they last befor giving wrong readings
     
  12. Mgamer20o0

    Mgamer20o0 BobsTropicalPlants.com
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    others i dont know but i do know about the api kits.


    In response to your question, each reagent bottle has a Lot # printed on
    the bottle. The last four digits are the month and year of manufacture.
    Example: Lot # 28A0102. This is a pH reagent manufactured in January of
    2002. Pond Care Wide Range pH, Ammonia, High Range pH, Nitrate,
    Phosphate, Copper, Calcium and GH all last for three years. Nitrite and
    KH will last for four years. Freshwater pH(low range) and Pond Care Salt
    Level will last for five years. I would not trust these kits after they
    have expired.
     
  13. Lupin

    Lupin Registered Member

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    Aquarium Pharmaceuticals

    Southpaw has kindly posted photos of test kit charts for your convenience. Here are the following attached below.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. southpaw

    southpaw Lefty

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    Thanks Lupin :)
     
  15. Lupin

    Lupin Registered Member

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    Update:
    Pics posted by Kveeti have been fixed as they were broken. This time, I attached them to AC's uploading system so the pics won't be lost over time.

    Thanks again for the pics, Kveeti.:)
     
  16. vily99

    vily99 AC Members

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    Does anyone have a picture of the freshwater comparison chart of the jungle labs 5 in 1 quick dip test strips? Ours got wet and stuck to the bottle so when we went to pull it open it tore.
     
  17. slotzero

    slotzero AC Members

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    Will this do?

    [​IMG]
     
  18. 1oooop

    1oooop int x; if {x>1} {std::cout

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    jungle... all in one...
     

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  19. pik01

    pik01 AC Members

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    Does anyone have the API GH/KH Chart available? Knowing me, I'm gonna lose that slip of paper sooner or later. Or even better, a chart with more specific values instead of a range?
     
  20. foolishfish

    foolishfish Registered Fish Offender

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    A few ideas for better / easier testing

    I've noticed that more than a few ancients like myself have a difficult time matching test sample to color card. The issue of lighting brought to mind graphics work that we used to do in the exhibit world, where clients were constantly fretting over color matches. The problem is that because of the way we see color, we are dependent on light levels and the colors surrounding what we are looking at. (Wiki rods and cones for a better explanation)

    Where water testing is concerned I would suggest that consistency is paramount, we can deal with accuracy separately. Observing colors under the same conditions will go a long way toward establishing that, and helping us old folks so we don't stumble all over the house and yard looking for just that right light to unveil what we seek.

    Build a small light box, open in the front and across the top (1/2" plywood glued and pinned should be more than adequate). The size need only accommodate the color card and your hand holding the test vial...say 12" wide if you want to stick both hands in at once. For simplicity's sake let's just make the whole box a foot square with no front and no top.

    Paint the interior of the box flat pure white and attach a compact fluorescent fixture across the top. Finish by adding strips along side the fixture to close off the rest of the box top and screw it to the wall or your significant others favorite piece of furniture, er ...disregard that last bit.

    I haven't researched it as yet but I'm sure a true color spectrum bulb is available. This is kind of tricky too however because they all tend to favor either the blue or red spectrum one way or the other...but again what we seek here is consistency...and a bright enough light that we can test anytime.

    It is actually a fact that the over 40-50 crowd needs something like twice the light intensity that youngsters need to be able to work safely so it just goes to figure that having a good viewing area handy will make the whole process easier for me and my AARP peers.

    Regarding accuracy, the previous points about anything above zero being the important indicator, I couldn't agree more, but for the OCD among us who need to know just how bad it is, or reassurance that it's not, here are a few ideas.

    Use an eye dropper, baster or syringe to inject your water sample into the test vial. I have a lot of tanks to test so I purchased extra vials and burned some holes in a plastic foam base to hold them. Each tank gets its own set of vials and its own syringe. This is just so I don't cross contaminate tanks and so I'm not contaminating my samples with rinse water between tests. Also a lot less walking back and forth.

    I take a small 1/2 cup sized sample from each tank and line them up with the vial stand before I start filling vials from the cups. The surface tension of the water on the inside of the vial causes the center of your reading to appear lower than where it contacts the glass. Again, just be consistent. Use the lowest part of your sample to register against the mark on the vial if you wish but just make sure that you always use that same criteria.

    Agitate your samples the same each time and check the time that you let them stand. Some test results are fairly immediate but others, like nitrates, tend to take a little longer to develop their final test color.

    When finished rinse everything out real well and store open end up so that they air dry completely before your next test. I'm not sure that the juice is worth the squeeze, but there may be some impact provided by your rinse water and any residue that it may impart, depending on the water quality of your supply.

    I'm on the Baltimore Metro system and we have very soft and generally very high quality water to begin with (albeit with varying levels of chlorinates depending on the time of year). I grew up in Pittsburgh, where the public water supply had a distinct texture and turbid opacity that warned you not to drink it.

    Real time indicators and digital testers aside a previous poster's reference to LaMotte was also a good way to go, if ya can spare the coin. I've used the LaMotte kits in pond and pool construction as well as with Trout Unlimited and SOS (Save Our Streams) and they are really top notch, but you still need to be able to see he test results.

    Not an expert by any means, but you may find this useful. I haven't built one yet myself, but it's on the list. :)
     

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