I need to begin research on which SPS corals and few other species of corals

OldManOfTheSea · Mar 27, 2007

Now I would like to get myself a stocking list of corals together prior to two reef aquariums being completed, for which the electrical work was finally done not too long ago. I'm too have mostly SPS corals with clams and two pair of dwarf eels. I am thinking as well that I will have a small number of soft corals as well as few others.

The lights be on these tanks are 250 watts MH which three are on the 180 and four are on the 240. The idea be that I should be able to manage any coral that requires stronger lighting. With all the lights, VHO and so, I not have the complete figures on them, that also I will ask the lfs owner to give me on paper so that I will have what's my total lighting be.

As well, much later on I will ask him too email me each tanks be with equipment and lights, etc>

I have a large number of corals in which im to get back into the research too better decide on what I might have or disregard that coral. I not know a lot with the SPS corals, also I wish to manage on having a variety of colors, that's so the tanks not look green only, LOL

I will ,now be open to suggestions and I will give a list that I was to start some two years ago research on, but was cut short due to the many delays in when these tanks might begin to start stocking with corals>

Montipora Cap Purple
Acropora Millepora Raspberry
Blastomussa wellsi - Fire Red
Blastomussa Merletti
Orange Digitata
Superman Monti
Pink Cotton Pillow
Tortuosa
OrangeRicordia (Ricordia florida)
Purple Acropora Corals (Acropora sp.)
Green Acropora Coral (Acropora sp.)
Turbinaria Ruffled Ridge Coral (Turbinaria sp.)
Stylophora Coral (Stylophora spp.)
Blue Acropora Coral (Acropora sp.)
Brown Acropora Coral (Acropora sp.)
Orange Montipora Encrusting Coral (Montipora nodosus)
Montipora Branched Coral (Montipora digitata) Pink, Purple
Porites Coral Yellow (Porites spp.)
Color Tip Acropora Corals (Acropora spp.) All Colors
Hydnophora Horn Coral (Hydnophora sp.)
Encrusting Horn Coral (Hydnophora exesa) Cream
Pocillopora Cauliflower Coral (Pocillopora damicornis) Pink
Leaf Plate Montipora Coral (Montipora capricornis) Orange, Pink, Purple
Neon Acropora Corals (Acropora spp.) All Colors

I don't wish to paste in this post with all the names that I have in a number of word pads. Also, I need to begin now in this reading and research in the decision to which corals I would give in a printout to my LFS> For as well, I'm more and more with the kids and will not have all the time I once did for this research thing. So anything one can suggest of a type of coral, as well, I would also need to add here that I would love to have some rare type of coral many not have. I do pray that its understood in what im looking to do here

And one thing to notice here is that SPS corals will dominate these tanks. Thanks in advance

Buddy

Mr.Firemouth · Mar 27, 2007

OMOTS,
Your tank will be very impressive if you can handle this! here are the things I would suggest is...
1. Scrap the lighting ideas if you haven't bought them yet and upgrade to 400w lamps. You will get way better results in a SPS dominated tank with 400w lamps.
2. Make sure the filter design incorporates a refugium where chaetomorpha caulerpa can grow. This will aid with nutrient control.
3. Make sure you are planning on a virtual cyclone of current within the system. SPS love maximum current!!!
4. Purchase at least 2 phosphate reactors and run activated carbon in one and phosphate resins in the other. Use an iron oxide resin. Replace every 30 days!!!
5. somewhere in the filter design you will need either a deep sand bed or a plenum. You need some way to reduce nitrates.
6. For your plans the bigger the skimmer the better. Nutrient export is the most important thing with these corals.
7. Quarantine system. You need a smaller setup strictly for QT. If you assemble this list of corals and don't QT every single coral purchase for 30 days you are crazy! I have seen time after time systems lose 50-75% of their SPS because of AEFW/redbugs/nudibranchs. This is the most important thing!!!
8. A calcium reactor isn't necessary but some kind of calcium dosing unit is. Whether you use a reactor or a 2-part additive, ALK and CA must be maintained along with Mg. I strongly suggest a kalk reactor or the addition of kalk to your make up water reservoir. This will aid in the precipitate of phosphates.
9. Upgrade your water filtration unit to include RO/MICRON/2 CARBON BLOCKS/2 DI RESIN CHAMBERS and a pump to get p.s.i. upto 80+p.s.i. Source water must be low in TDS.
10. Make sure you can control the temp. 400w lamps will effect temp and a chiller may be necessary...1/2hp if you need one.

This by no means the only way to go but these suggestions will help greatly!
HTH,Rich

Germanman · Mar 27, 2007

Mr.Firemouth said:
OMOTS,
Your tank will be very impressive if you can handle this! here are the things I would suggest is...
1. Scrap the lighting ideas if you haven't bought them yet and upgrade to 400w lamps. You will get way better results in a SPS dominated tank with 400w lamps.
2. Make sure the filter design incorporates a refugium where chaetomorpha caulerpa can grow. This will aid with nutrient control.
3. Make sure you are planning on a virtual cyclone of current within the system. SPS love maximum current!!!
4. Purchase at least 2 phosphate reactors and run activated carbon in one and phosphate resins in the other. Use an iron oxide resin. Replace every 30 days!!!
5. somewhere in the filter design you will need either a deep sand bed or a plenum. You need some way to reduce nitrates.
6. For your plans the bigger the skimmer the better. Nutrient export is the most important thing with these corals.
7. Quarantine system. You need a smaller setup strictly for QT. If you assemble this list of corals and don't QT every single coral purchase for 30 days you are crazy! I have seen time after time systems lose 50-75% of their SPS because of AEFW/redbugs/nudibranchs. This is the most important thing!!!
8. A calcium reactor isn't necessary but some kind of calcium dosing unit is. Whether you use a reactor or a 2-part additive, ALK and CA must be maintained along with Mg. I strongly suggest a kalk reactor or the addition of kalk to your make up water reservoir. This will aid in the precipitate of phosphates.
9. Upgrade your water filtration unit to include RO/MICRON/2 CARBON BLOCKS/2 DI RESIN CHAMBERS and a pump to get p.s.i. upto 80+p.s.i. Source water must be low in TDS.
10. Make sure you can control the temp. 400w lamps will effect temp and a chiller may be necessary...1/2hp if you need one.

This by no means the only way to go but these suggestions will help greatly!
HTH,Rich

wow nice info there man!

Mr.Firemouth · Mar 27, 2007

Just trying to help. IMO, SPS tanks are the big boy leagues! The margin for error and the size tanks he is talking about equal thousands of dollars! You really need to start right with that kind of investment!

Germanman · Mar 27, 2007

Mr.Firemouth said:
Just trying to help. IMO, SPS tanks are the big boy leagues! The margin for error and the size tanks he is talking about equal thousands of dollars! You really need to start right with that kind of investment!

sooo ture

OldManOfTheSea · Mar 27, 2007

I was told by many when I was to have 250 watts MH, and the lfs has put in 175 instead that I told the person that in no way will 175 watts MH cut it. Also that before I had my RC membership revoked, the question on the lights was ask there and most agree that 250 is good enough. I not know right now on how often im to change this bulbs, but I will begin the change of bulbs ahead of schedule as well the normal thing about changing one bulb every two weeks in order not to cause much stress. And yes, the light are paid for, just not have the 250 just yet.

I do have the electrical currents to handle it, only I not how much more that it will be to move it up a knot. I will talk again to Jeff and look to do this, for as well, im to have everything that these tanks will need in a engineering crew (clean up crew).

I not remember the name of these pumps for the tank water currents, but I was told that just two of them would do it all in the 240> I will make clear everything in name as this moves a long

I am planning on phosphate reactors for these tanks as well, will be added at some later date.

On the 240, I will run light on the sump to have micro algae to help battle nutrients>

I will have calcium reactors, I a dosing two part system when was soft corals, and I not mind spending the money to have something better and as it be, I cannot take the money with me when its my time

I think I mentioned that I a 40 gal breeder for a QT for the fish before going into the main tanks, and after the tanks are completed with live stock, the 40 will go through a major change that the sump and skimmer and lights will are be done over to house corals, and even a chiller later will be added to this>

I do know and understand that ALK and CA as well as the Ph needs to be maintained>

I a five stage RO/DI unit> It was normally a four stage unit>

The margin for error and the size tanks he is talking about equal thousands of dollars!

That is why I said in the thread of TOTM that I not know what to expect that is I will have a thriving tanks in a number of years, I will do all I need to do in maintaining and spending>
I will however be able to answer you better then this, for im in a bit of a rush to feed the eels for I need to be over at the other house for the kids> I did say that I will have little time and when I the time will do all the :read: that I can.

Buddy

OldManOfTheSea · Mar 28, 2007

I hope these are far better answers to your professional views

Your tank will be very impressive if you can handle this! here are the things I would suggest is...

That's tanks, two of them and I know they will look impressive, im thinking about the corals thriving for the long term>

Scrap the lighting ideas if you haven't bought them yet and upgrade to 400w lamps. You will get way better results in a SPS dominated tank with 400w lamps.

You see what happen is this: The owner put in 175 watts due to that I not had the electrical wall outlets to handle anything larger then 175 and still the connections would be run from outlets further away from the tanks themselves. The answer that was giving to me why he put in 175 is that he wanted to save me some money. And then I reminded him that did he ever see me worried about spending way too much and he said no.

So then he be now putting in sometime the 250, but I will talk to him to go with 400 for I agree with you totally on that be best needed. He said that to change to the 250, the cost be only $250 which is paid for. I will get the cost difference to go with 400 watts MH. I did told him that I wanted 400 and I gotten from many that the 250 is good.

I did at RC seen a number of SPS tanks with 250 and I not know how long those tanks been setup and all, only they appeared to look great. Also, that some have 250 and 400 watts MH together, I should go strictly with 400 watts mh? I will have three on the 180 with four on the 240.

I do hope that you understood much on how I managed to said it>

Make sure the filter design incorporates a refugium where chaetomorpha caulerpa can grow. This will aid with nutrient control.

At the store, they done something like this I think with their 144 display reef tank, that they grow algae in the refugium, I will take pics of it to show you later this week when im to go out there to take a number of fish pictures, they supposed to be big bucks, worth>

Make sure you are planning on a virtual cyclone of current within the system. SPS love maximum current!!!

That is one thing that I do know of with SPS corals, The pump I still not remember the name of, that maybe you might know that the water rushes through a wider pump, if you not know this, I will get the name on this as we when out there.

Purchase at least 2 phosphate reactors and run activated carbon in one and phosphate resins in the other. Use an iron oxide resin. Replace every 30 days!!!

I said I think im planning on the phosphate reactors as the tanks age after cycling, I will tell the guy to get these a number of months after the cycle and age. I was thinking more to have those by the 5th or 6th month> I was thinking of running some short of carbon, but I was more of thinking to use it in the sump itself. Something tells me that that's a bad idea, I a red flag that went up in my thoughts, funny it is, LOL

somewhere in the filter design you will need either a deep sand bed or a plenum. You need some way to reduce nitrates.

What are your thoughts on the nitrate reactor, are they any good? This if is good idea, I would get these in the first few months >

For your plans the bigger the skimmer the better. Nutrient export is the most important thing with these corals.

HO-HO I planed nothing better then the ER (Euro Reefs) I not remember the model number, the ER for the 240 cost $1,000 and it is more suited for a 450 gal tank I think.

Quarantine system. You need a smaller setup strictly for QT. If you assemble this list of corals and don't QT every single coral purchase for 30 days you are crazy! I have seen time after time systems lose 50-75% of their SPS because of AEFW/redbugs/nudibranchs. This is the most important thing!!!

A hitchhiker is always a concern, I think that I will look to do it this way, that is if he the lighting and space for it. That Jeff will get me a number of corals every two moths are so and will house them as the only inhabitants of the tank they be in. That the store clerks when passing will look to notice if any uninvited hitchhikers. That they would remain in this tank for 30 days to be sure that are is safe from any hitchhikers. If this is a problem, I will tell him that he can charge me boarding fees.

Its funny for you to mention that, I did have that exact kind of concern, LOL

A calcium reactor isn't necessary but some kind of calcium dosing unit is. Whether you use a reactor or a 2-part additive, ALK and CA must be maintained along with Mg. I strongly suggest a kalk reactor or the addition of kalk to your make up water reservoir. This will aid in the precipitate of phosphates.

Along with the reactors, I will dose the reservoir with every refill when needed with (ESV) Calcium Hydroxide (Kalkwasser powder)>

Upgrade your water filtration unit to include RO/MICRON/2 CARBON BLOCKS/2 DI RESIN CHAMBERS and a pump to get p.s.i. upto 80+p.s.i. Source water must be low in TDS.

I have to admit that I not know fully in what you mean, As well, did have the thought to run carbon in the sump which now Im getting a red flag popping up in my mind

Make sure you can control the temp. 400w lamps will effect temp and a chiller may be necessary...1/2hp if you need one.

I have chillers on all my tanks except the QT, which later when the QT be not needed as much, the 40 will go through many changes in its equipment and lights and that a chiller will be added to it. As well, I know that the temp with 400 watts MH will most certainly become effected

im thinking to reset the temp at 77F, the summers get to hot here in NC during the summer.

Also I canopies which I had custom build>

Buddy

PS, I spent almost four hours to do the quotes and what were my remarks to your views :look:

Mr.Firemouth · Mar 28, 2007

Buddy,
you have a great plan...thanks for taking the time to respond...

I do hope that you understood much on how I managed to said it>

I do understand completely...

I should go strictly with 400 watts mh? I will have three on the 180 with four on the 240.

Yes, all 400w Reeflux 12k will look best. Single Ended(SE) bulbs. Change every 6-9 months.

That is one thing that I do know of with SPS corals, The pump I still not remember the name of, that maybe you might know that the water rushes through a wider pump, if you not know this, I will get the name on this as we when out there.

Tunze makes the best for the money. A wave box is also another option. Check the Tunze website.

I said I think im planning on the phosphate reactors as the tanks age after cycling, I will tell the guy to get these a number of months after the cycle and age. I was thinking more to have those by the 5th or 6th month> I was thinking of running some short of carbon, but I was more of thinking to use it in the sump itself. Something tells me that that's a bad idea, I a red flag that went up in my thoughts, funny it is, LOL

NO, set this up immediately and don't let any DOC/PHOSPHATES accumalate at all! If you do your sand bed and live rock will work like a sponge and store these nutrients. They will be harder to remove later. Trust me here and avoid algae blooms, diatoms, and cyanobacteria by setting up the reactors first!!!

What are your thoughts on the nitrate reactor, are they any good? This if is good idea, I would get these in the first few months >

Sulpur denitrators work but need to be fed. They are innefficient IMO. A plenumn system works the best long term. Deep sand beds work but store nutrients so over time you need to replace like 1/3 the bed every 3 months until it is completely replaced. I am talking years down the road. I have seen plenumn system 8 and 10 years old that are phenomanal. Chaeto and a large skimmer also help.

HO-HO I planed nothing better then the ER (Euro Reefs) I not remember the model number, the ER for the 240 cost $1,000 and it is more suited for a 450 gal tank I think.

I recommend the MRC skimmer line for your application. Look at this link...
http://www.myreefcreations.com/psstandard-r.htm

Pay attention to the 48" MR-6R skimmer for $875 this is the best skimmer for your sps application and can handle both tanks if you plumb them together, which I recommend to make your system equivalently over 500gallons. This is a phenomanal skimmer with an awesome amount of contact time within the reaction tube which will make it very efficient. It will require to pumps. This company will recommend the correct pumps.

Along with the reactors, I will dose the reservoir with every refill when needed with (ESV) Calcium Hydroxide (Kalkwasser powder)>

Mrs.Wages Pickling Lime is the same thing at the grocery store...use this instead. I hate when corparations take advantage of hobbyists.

Quote:
Upgrade your water filtration unit to include RO/MICRON/2 CARBON BLOCKS/2 DI RESIN CHAMBERS and a pump to get p.s.i. upto 80+p.s.i. Source water must be low in TDS.

I have to admit that I not know fully in what you mean, As well, did have the thought to run carbon in the sump which now Im getting a red flag popping up in my mind

I am referring to your RO unit for your water supply. It is important on a SPS system that the water be as pure as possible and have next to zero TDS(total dissolved solids)
Here is a pic of mine...

PS, I spent almost four hours to do the quotes and what were my remarks to your views

This will get easier and faster, thanks.
Rich

Reefscape · Mar 28, 2007

Mr Firemouth,

Just think that a little bit gratitude goes to you for making all this effort on this this thread. it would not be this comprehensive if you had not made all that effort..

Thanks

Niko

Mr.Firemouth · Mar 28, 2007

Thanks Niko. I really want him to succeed!


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I need to begin research on which SPS corals and few other species of corals

OldManOfTheSea

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Germanman

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