Recently bought a bubble tip anemone.

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unknownfisher

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May 13, 2005
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I recently bought a BTA. He's been in my tank for 1 day now. The tank is 2 years old. Somehow the BTA doesnt have bubble tentacles but he does have little buldge at the tip. I am also running 150 HQI MH and 2x atinic VHO on my 29 gallon tank. MY tomato clown took it as a host after it was introduced to the tank. Any advice appreciated.

04-06-07_2134.jpg
 

Michael Marino

SALT WATER FOR LIFE
Mar 5, 2006
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Long Island, New York
Entacmaea quadricolor, Bulb, bubble, bubble-tipped, maroon anemone
Recently obtained individuals will usually have unmistakable swollen ends on the tips of their tentacles. Specimens in captivity will often lose their bubble-tips for periods of time and just have long straight tentacles. The tentacles usually have a green color especially when exposed to only actinic light. The tentacles may also have a frosty white ring around the tip. The base is often rusty-red but may also be purple or just tan. The Rose anemone is a color variation of this anemone.
Good Points- Normal reef lighting is enough (above 4 watts per gal.) for this type of anemone and may be more than enough. Nitrate levels below 20 ppm are preferred. Small ones may reproduce asexually in your aquarium by dividing into two smaller anemones. Their sting is rather weak and won't harm your other fish. They are accepted by Clarki-type clowns, all the different tomato-type clowns, maroon clowns and sometimes, although very rarely, percula and ocellaris clowns.

Bad Points- These anemones tend to wander around the tank more than others, sometimes causing their own deaths from lack of light or being sucked through a powerhead. They like to have their foot shaded inside a crevice in the rock or coral with their tentacles in the light. This preference might be met by placing a short piece of PVC pipe, sized to the anemone, where you want the anemone to stay and putting its base into the pipe. They seem to be sensitive to being shipped. Make sure the one you pick out has a tight mouth and is firmly attached to something in the dealers tank. Any anemone that is not attached to something in the dealers tank is probably not healthy. In addition, when the dealer tries to remove the anemone from the tank the anemone should show some type of reaction, usually they contract.
 

jojo22

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Sep 21, 2006
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Once again you should quote the source of all materials, otherwise it is plagiarism.

But good info!!!
 

GatorDrew

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Apr 19, 2006
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Good Points- Normal reef lighting is enough (above 4 watts per gal.) for this type of anemone and may be more than enough.
I know you say "more than enough" however I have the following:

Coralife 48"
2-65 watt 10,000K Daylight & 2-65 watt 03 Blue Actinic Compact Fluorescent Lamps, 2 built in ballasts, 3-3/4 watt Lunar Blue Moon Glow LED Lamps , 2 cooling fans
260 total watts / 90 gallons = 2.88

I don't think I can upgrade just the bulbs. How can I upgrade that a bit without spending a fortune? I think I paid about $200 for the above light setup.
 

jojo22

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Sep 21, 2006
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I know a link to great diy MH units you could build for barley more than you paid for your current unit. it would put you up to 300W which is 3.3333333333333 W per gallon but halide light penetrates better than PC so you wouldn't need as much!
 

jojo22

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Sep 21, 2006
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jojo22

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Sep 21, 2006
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depends on how many you build and ballest quality, the better ballests cost more. I have the one in that thread and love it!!
 
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