With my background having failed miserably, though pretty as it was, I've decided to press on ahead anyway, and worry about a background later on.
The past few weeks, since my background was done, I have been playing around with the plumbing.
About a year and a half ago, when I took on this tank (and took a year or so off, where I did nothing with the tank) I decided I wanted to do it using PVC, at the time, I wasn't resourceful or knowledgeable enough to hunt down the parts that I would have needed.
Well, I have that knowledge, and the resources now to do it the way I wanted from the beginning, Although in the beginning I was only using one filter, and a submersible heater
This will be a bit of a drawn out project, as I have entered into a contract for purchasing a pump for my RO unit, and need to save the cash to pay for it.
On top of that, I will need to wait for most of the stuff I order, to arrive, since I have to buy most of it online, and it takes 8 days for an eCheck to clear etc.
That being said, I do have pics of what I've managed to achieve so far.
I am using the 5/8" model of Eheim installation kits 1 & 2. Which happen to have a 3/4" pipe thread when you unscrew its disconnect washer.
This allowed me to use a 3/4" PVC female connector, and a 3/4" x 1/2" reducer bushing to allow connection of 1/2" PVC.
Also, as it turns out, the 2213s and the Hydor use a 3/8" pipe thread, which was harder to find parts for, but I was able to find a 1/2" x 3/8" reducer bushing, which will allow me to screw on 1/2" PVC fittings.
I need to mention though, that the Hydor uses what seems to be a more "coarse" thread, and I didn't think a reducer bushing was going to fit on it, But it did, without causing nay thread damage. The 5/8" models of Hydor ETH should have a 1/2" thread, which would eliminate the need for reducers.... live & learn.... I pass my knowledge to you
This makes plumbing the two units together a fairly simple process, given that the parts can be found. Currently it is connected for pictures only, and I still need to find a couple of parts.
As you can see everything fits together nicely. I will have another set of disconnect valves connected to the filter intakes on the back, running straight up, into a T, and then into the intake in the aquarium.
My biggest problem here, and I'm hoping I can get some advice on this one, is how do I connect the outputs of the Hydors into a T without messing with the flow anymore than it currently is.
the two Hydors are close enough together that only 2 elbows would fit on top, and connect them together perfectly, with no room for a T in the middle.
This must be done with a T to ensure even water flow distribution.
I've had an idea using street elbows, which just might work.
So far, the things I still need are as follows.
1/2" SLIP x 1/2" FPT 45° PVC Elbow (2)
1/2" SLIP x 1/2" FPT Union (2)
More reducer bushings.
The past few weeks, since my background was done, I have been playing around with the plumbing.
About a year and a half ago, when I took on this tank (and took a year or so off, where I did nothing with the tank) I decided I wanted to do it using PVC, at the time, I wasn't resourceful or knowledgeable enough to hunt down the parts that I would have needed.
Well, I have that knowledge, and the resources now to do it the way I wanted from the beginning, Although in the beginning I was only using one filter, and a submersible heater
This will be a bit of a drawn out project, as I have entered into a contract for purchasing a pump for my RO unit, and need to save the cash to pay for it.
On top of that, I will need to wait for most of the stuff I order, to arrive, since I have to buy most of it online, and it takes 8 days for an eCheck to clear etc.
That being said, I do have pics of what I've managed to achieve so far.
I am using the 5/8" model of Eheim installation kits 1 & 2. Which happen to have a 3/4" pipe thread when you unscrew its disconnect washer.
This allowed me to use a 3/4" PVC female connector, and a 3/4" x 1/2" reducer bushing to allow connection of 1/2" PVC.
Also, as it turns out, the 2213s and the Hydor use a 3/8" pipe thread, which was harder to find parts for, but I was able to find a 1/2" x 3/8" reducer bushing, which will allow me to screw on 1/2" PVC fittings.
I need to mention though, that the Hydor uses what seems to be a more "coarse" thread, and I didn't think a reducer bushing was going to fit on it, But it did, without causing nay thread damage. The 5/8" models of Hydor ETH should have a 1/2" thread, which would eliminate the need for reducers.... live & learn.... I pass my knowledge to you
This makes plumbing the two units together a fairly simple process, given that the parts can be found. Currently it is connected for pictures only, and I still need to find a couple of parts.
As you can see everything fits together nicely. I will have another set of disconnect valves connected to the filter intakes on the back, running straight up, into a T, and then into the intake in the aquarium.
My biggest problem here, and I'm hoping I can get some advice on this one, is how do I connect the outputs of the Hydors into a T without messing with the flow anymore than it currently is.
the two Hydors are close enough together that only 2 elbows would fit on top, and connect them together perfectly, with no room for a T in the middle.
This must be done with a T to ensure even water flow distribution.
I've had an idea using street elbows, which just might work.
So far, the things I still need are as follows.
1/2" SLIP x 1/2" FPT 45° PVC Elbow (2)
1/2" SLIP x 1/2" FPT Union (2)
More reducer bushings.
