Down & Dirty Shopping Guide for Your First SW Tank

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Grins

Girl Reefer...we do exist
May 1, 2007
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Charlotte, NC
Been answering questions like this so much thought I’d jot down thoughts and perhaps it can turn into a sticky in the Marine Newbie forum here. Please add your thoughts, I’m very new to the hobby myself and this is exactly the kind of list I wish I had when I first went shopping.


Tank:
Many choices exist. Glass or Acrylic? Nano (under 30 gallons) or more? Many will advise to go as large as you can for 2 reasons. One because the water is easier to keep stable and two because it will prevent you needing to upgrade when you decide you want a fish you can’t keep in a smaller tank. My advice is to research what you want to stock and then get the tank that will suit that stocking plan.

Stand
All manner of options available on stands. A stand needs to be level and able to handle the weight of a filled aquarium. I use an average of 10#s per gallon of water to account for the weight of water, any rock and the tank itself. A word of caution is to account for what you’ll want to store in your stand if you are hoping to house things like a sump, skimmer and more in it. All too many times someone realizes their stand won’t house anything but a custom sump or none at all when they had hoped to have one.

Lights
What you will need is dependent upon what you will stock in the tank. SPS (Small polyp stony corals), some LPS (large polyp stony corals), clams and anemones all require Metal Halides (MH) or T5s with individual reflectors. These units can be costly but better to plan for them if you’re wanting to stock high light demanding species. If you’re only stocking fish you can basic lights that come with many aquarium sets. Bulbs can get a bit confusing and often the difference in some are more a matter of personal viewing preference, not something that fish need. Actinics are a good example of this, many like the blue hues it brings out but it is for our benefit not the fish we keep.

Live Rock
You won’t need this for a fish only system. If you choose to add it you’ll move up to what is called a FOWLER (Fish only with live rock). Many now use it for their filtration and no longer run mechanical filters. You have the option of getting both cured and uncured rock. The difference between the two is that one has been scrubbed of any dead life forms and the other hasn’t. Cured live rock bought offline and shipped in my opinion is no longer cured because of shipping. Neither is better than the other, the cured will be more expensive. The uncured will need to be cured and you can expect some smells due to the die off.

You can also buy base rock which is rock that used to be live but all life forms are no longer present. If you go this route, do mix some live rock in it to help “seed’ the base rock faster. Last choice is some chose to make their own rock. There are threads on that in the DIY forum that you can check out if you want to go that route.

On how much rock to buy many will use the 1-2 pounds per gallon rule. Where you fall in that may depend on what type of rock you use. Marshall Island rock is very porous and you won’t need as many pounds of it as you will the more dense Tonga Branch rock.

Filter
You will want to use filters on a FO system. You don’t need to on a FOWLER or Reef if you have enough rock to act as biological filtration. Some still choose to run a mechanical filter even with enough live rock. I presently run a canister filter for Chemi-Pure. If you’re weighing this decision ask around on the forums but you’ll find many successful SW aquarists who don’t use a mechanical filter.

Water Movement
Your goal is to have no “dead” spots in your display tank. Minimum water circulation should be 10x the volume of your tank. If you have a 55g that means 550gph for a basic set-up. If that 55g is to be a reef tank you’ll want to increase that to at least 25x turnover. I’ve read of people keeping some of their SPS tanks at 60x turnover.

To achieve this you’ll want powerheads. Like any aquarium products there are many out there and some are better than others. Ask around for recommendations.

Substrate
You have the choice between bare bottom, sand or a deep sand bed. Many feel crushed coral is a bad option and many that have it are opting to change it. I opted for aragonite (sand). It comes in a few different particle sizes and live or regular. If you wish to keep a sand sifting species such as a goby you’ll want something smaller in size but you don’t have to go to sugar size unless you wish to. Although live sand is an option many feel it is a waste of money and I agree with them. Your live rock will help your sand become live and if you wish to speed up the process you can also ask a local reefer to give you a cup or two of their sand.

If you choose to use non marine sand from a home improvement store be sure it contains no silicone. Many use a product packaged under the name Southdown and it is said to be safe. Be sure to rinse it!

Salt
There are many brands out there and most of the well known ones found in your local LFS (local fish store) or major online aquarium supplier are fine. If you wish to support a reef you may want one of the salts such as Reef Crystals, Oceanic, etc.

Refractometer/Hydrometer
You’ll need this to measure your specific gravity (SG) or salinity. A refractometer is more accurate and is highly recommended.

Heater
Many use the 5 watts per gallon rule for this. So if you have a 55 gallon tank you’ll need 275…which since they don’t come in that size you’ll need to bump up to a 300. However, many will take this number and divide it and buy 2 heaters for safety. So in this case they’d get (2) 150 watt heaters. Titanium heaters are better but glass ones will work.

Thermometer
You can get either a basic one or a digital one. I don’t recommend one of sticker like ones though. They tell you the temp of the glass they are on in that spot not the temp of your water.

Tests
During your cycle you’ll want to test for ammonia, nitrates and nitrites. I’d also recommend getting a test for copper, pH and phosphates. If you decide to go reef you’ll want additional tests for calcium, magnesium, etc. In addition do not add anything to your water in the form of additives that you don’t have a test kit for!

Water
Seems obvious huh? This is an area that needs planning for however. Many now recommend that you use RO/DI water. Although you can buy it from your LFS (even mixed with salt if you wish), that can get costly and tiresome. An investment in a RO/Di unit is suggested. Many will come with the TDS meter you need to check the water you make and initial filters for the unit.

In addition to the unit you’ll want a container for the water you make and perhaps a second container for mixed salt water. Many keep these containers separate because you’ll want freshwater for topping off due to evaporation during the week. (salt doesn’t evaporate) If you keep these containers do plan on an extra powerhead and a heater for them.

Some choose not to use RO/DI water and instead use tap water. If you go this route please do so knowing that many cities add chemicals to their water that we can drink but fish and inverts can’t tolerate. Copper is such an additive, as well as chlorine. Well water has similar issues. Additionally you’re playing a game of roulette with nuisance algae that will thrive on phosphates. Ask around and you’ll hear stories of hair algae problems before switching to RO/DI.

Protein Skimmer
Although this is considering optional many now feel it is a must, especially with a reef tank. You have the option between a HOB (hang on the back) or in sump unit. Some smaller tanks even use an in tank unit and a few even attempt a DIY skimmer. Skimmers come in all different price tags. Some of them are great, some are downright junk. Ask around and people will be more than happy to suggest one in your budget for your tank size.

Quarantine Tank (QT)
I learned this one the hard way and you don’t need to. Quarantine all living stock before placing it in your display tank. This includes live rock. This will prevent introducing disease to your display tank, make it easier to treat fish, and help train species to eat what you feed. A QT tank only needs to be bare bones and does not need to be kept running when in use. All you need is a 10+ gallon tank, a heater, a sponge filter, or simple HOB filter, and a few pieces of PVC pipe for your fish to hide in. If you are QTing coral or clams with high light needs you’ll need the appropriate lighting.

Live Stock
Do your research before stocking. Unfortunately some LFSs stock things that are better left in the ocean. Pick up a copy or Scott W. Michael’s Pocket Guide to Reef Aquarium Fishes and the companion book for Inverts. It will help introduce you to new species, tell you about the ones you are interested in, and is handy to have with you when you are in a fish store and relying on a stranger trying to make a profit. Some LFSs are great, don’t get me wrong, but 2nd opinions in this hobby are a good idea.

Please don’t stock before you cycle. There is an excellent sticky thread in this forum explaining how the cycle works.

Misc.
Aqua gloves, nets, capture boxes, buckets, cleaning sponges, scrapers are all good in your tool kit.

Information
Read, read, and read some more. Read forums, read books, and then go read some more. Ask questions, get lots of opinions, go back and research some more. You’ll eventually find people whose approach seems to be similar to yours and you can seek out their advice. But even then don’t be afraid to get multiple opinions and form your own opinion on what will work for you with some research.

Clubs
I only add this because I believe in them so much. Your local reef club can be a fantastic source of local information, general information, and FANASTIC deals on used equipment and livestock. You’re bound to find local reefers that are very willing to help a new reefer who is sincerely interested in doing things as right as they can the first time around. Look on google for your local club or ask around for a point in the right direction.


There are other things that some will get and I consider them optional although I do have many of them myself. Things such as sumps, return pumps, reactors, refugiums and more. If you want information on those we’ll all help where we can but this list is meant to be a general one for newbies wanting to know what to get for starting off.

A last bit of advice, I can’t stress enough asking before you buy. This is an expensive hobby and that means mistakes are expensive too. Better to spend $200 on what you need than $150 on something you’ll need to replace right away. Don’t be afraid to buy used with some research and ask questions.

Ok fellow AC members, what did I forget? And at 2:35AM how many grammar and typos issues do I have? =)
 

Subliminal

AC Members
Feb 21, 2007
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Sounds pretty good. The only thing I would argue is that SPS, LPS and Anemones can do fine under PC lighting, if it's set up properly.

But that's a pretty minor point...other than that, very good info!
 

WeeNe858

AC Members
Dec 16, 2006
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Sounds pretty good. The only thing I would argue is that SPS, LPS and Anemones can do fine under PC lighting, if it's set up properly.

But that's a pretty minor point...other than that, very good info!
its simply a matter of wattage... but the intensity of the MH and the T-5's have a better result on anything that host zooxanthele (sp)
 

Subliminal

AC Members
Feb 21, 2007
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Oh, I understand lighting, and my anemone and corals are doing much better under my PCs than they did under my T5s. Light is light. If you have enough, in the right color range, you're set. The corals don't really care what brand/type of bulb you use to get it there.

That's all I'm saying!
 

Grins

Girl Reefer...we do exist
May 1, 2007
10,449
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Charlotte, NC
Sounds pretty good. The only thing I would argue is that SPS, LPS and Anemones can do fine under PC lighting, if it's set up properly.

But that's a pretty minor point...other than that, very good info!
A valid point though. It addresses something I neglected to add...there is more than one way to succeed in this hobby.
 

Reefscape

I shoot people with a Canon
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Nov 8, 2006
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seethroughmylens.co.uk
Real Name
Blinky
I have to do something when I can't sleep. =)
I thought you just annoyed me when you could not sleep?

Its a great topic to keep running and written well...As comments have come out, we can see staright away there are many ways to do a specific job, some better than others, but, nothing is fixed. So, we cna all hope that people will contribute their ways of doing a task or acheiving an aim...Build up some good info..

Niko
 

OldManOfTheSea

AC Members
Mar 21, 2007
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You have many good points grins but I wouldn't suggest any new comer into the marine to first attempt a Nano reef for its even a little difficulty for those who had done this hobby for a few years or so. And I somewhat suggest to those who not know if they like to have the tank or their not idea if they may stay with it that they should try not larger then a 55 gal tank. For sure, go as large as they can would be better.

Like yourself grins, I know a good number of people who a canister filter and has a great success. The only thing with some, not talk anything more about there tank and when I had spoken to a few they said that its too much work only to have to keep up with their tanks maintenance. Or they decided to make some changes in their tanks inhabitants for a number did do a reef tank and had changed over to FO.

They too said that they didn't do much research in what they wanted and gone in mostly blinded.

So patience and research are a hobbyist main tools from the start :grinyes:

turnover rate, I use to have 25x or more many years ago, but no more, I not know if the SPS tanks im too start once their ready if with water currents a lone will give the corals their needed requirements for many have different thoughs as for the turnover issue and most I can safely say do agree with your figures. I even readied from one who says his with a 100x turnover rate.

On the live sand as pointed out is a waste for the most part when one is to have a FO tank, for water quality must be as if keeping a reef and yet I not know if you are to mention about the miracle mud, but so many more would strongly suggest using it>

Grins, you said it correct, folks needs to buy for their tanks the proper equipments and not look to go cheap and say I will buy a better one later on. For the most part there, they find themselves in a bind and its years later and still they not manage to buy a better skimmer.

I have to do something when I can't sleep. =)
Try counting sheep and if that not help you any, try counting fish :)

Ok fellow AC members, what did I forget? And at 2:35AM how many grammar and typos issues do I have?
It couldn`t be any worst off then my own grammer :headshake2: lol



 
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