Acceptable TDS of RO/DI water?

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schigara

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Jan 2, 2005
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I took samples of my tap and RO/DI water to my LFS to check the TDS of each.

My Tap water had a TDS of 77 and my RO/DI water had a TDS of 17.

I know it would be great if it were 0, what would be acceptable?

I have a 4 stage Kent Maxxima that I replaced the carbon and sediment cartridges about 2 months and the DI was replaced about 9 months worth of use ago.

I go the system used so I don't know if the Membrane was ever changed or how old it is.
 

strangerdejavu

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Sep 22, 2007
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Seems to me that you should be getting a rating of 0. My tap water has a TDS of 120-130 and comes out of the RO/DI at 0. That's over twice the reduction that your system is doing! Perhaps you're due for a new RO membrane!
 

schigara

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That's what I was afraid of. I have found the GE 100gpd membranes on Ebay for about $60 shipped so that's better than the $100 locally.

Seems to me that you should be getting a rating of 0. My tap water has a TDS of 120-130 and comes out of the RO/DI at 0. That's over twice the reduction that your system is doing! Perhaps you're due for a new RO membrane!
 

trippkid

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Jun 27, 2007
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Yes, you should be getting zero. When did you say you changed the DI portion of your unit. This is what you should replace more frequently, when you see TDS above 1 or 2, replacing the membrane should help also. The RO portion should reduce your tap 90-98%, the DI cleans up the rest. I'd say the DI needs changed roughly every 700-1000 gallons of good water made(this really depends on the membrane). I have to replace my DI cartridge about every 4 months or so.
Matt
 

schigara

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The DI has been used for about 9 months. 2-3g per day for top off and 15g changes every 2 weeks

Yes, you should be getting zero. When did you say you changed the DI portion of your unit. This is what you should replace more frequently, when you see TDS above 1 or 2, replacing the membrane should help also. The RO portion should reduce your tap 90-98%, the DI cleans up the rest. I'd say the DI needs changed roughly every 700-1000 gallons of good water made(this really depends on the membrane). I have to replace my DI cartridge about every 4 months or so.
Matt
 

trippkid

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Jun 27, 2007
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That's 90 gal/month, give or take, I'd say it's time for the DI to be change along with the membrane, then eveything is fairly new(including the other cartridges).

The membranes, once hydrated, cannot be allowed to dry out. When a membrane dries, it is no
longer able to purify the water and would need to be replaced. When the unit is not operating,
the membrane housing MUST stay wet. If the unit is portable and makes water once or so a
month, store the unit with the tubing above the membrane housing to prevent draining. If the
unit is not going to produce water for over 4 weeks, the membrane needs to be removed from
the membrane housing and stored in a plastic, air tight bag with 2 tablespoons of product water
and placed in the refrigerator. Doing this will prolong the membrane life. let the
membrane freeze. Regular maintenance of the R/O unit consists of keeping track of about how
much water the unit is producing. This can be estimated.

The following chart is the
recommended change times for all the filters.
1 canister- 1 micron string wound filter:
Change every 6 months or earlier if filtering heavy sediment, looks
dirty or unit loses flow.

2 canister- -solid block carbon matrix filter: Change
every 3,750 gallons of water production (waste + product) at 2
ppm chlorine, or every 6 months.

3 canister- - or :
post deionization resin cartridge or Hi-S™
High Silica removal resin: These resins are color indicated,
exhaustion starts from bottom up. Once color change is one inch
from the top, the cartridge needs replacing.

Membrane- rated gpd)-Thin Film Composite, , ,
:
Under average conditions this membrane can filter
25,000 gallons or around 3 to 5 years of service. The
existence of fouling chemicals in the tap water like Iron,
Calcium, or Magnesium, will reduce the membrane
life exponentially. Kent Marine makes an add-on called
the flush kit. Adding this kit will greatly decrease
the chances of the fouling chemicals from destroying
the membrane.


Too much product water, little waste or resin exhausts quickly: Cause: the membrane is not
fully seated in the housing. See diagram 1 & 2 from opposite side of these instructions.
Not enough product water, lots of waste: Cause: Check the TDS, Temperature, PSI as stated in
the Overview section. Make sure you have given the membrane enough time to completely
hydrate. If all the common problems have been ruled out, contact Kent Marine 's Technical
Department for further assistance.
Kent Marine warrants this product to be free from defects in material and workmanship under
normal use and conditions for a period of 90 days from the date of original purchase. Gallons
per day is not warranted since it is dependent on the users water conditions (i.e., temperature,
pressure, and total dissolved solids).
Should service be necessary under this warranty due to a manufacturing defect or malfunction
during the 90 day warranty period, Kent Marine will, at our option, repair or replace the unit and
pay transportation charges back to purchaser. Purchaser is responsible for transportation to
Kent Marine , in any event. If the unit is determined to be damaged due to incorrect installation,
poor water conditions from users tap, or other unwarrantable condition, Purchaser will be billed
for repair charges and return shipping charges.
Note: The warranty is void if the product is: 1) Damaged through negligence, misuse, abuse, or
accident. This includes, but is not limited to failure to regularly replace carbon and sediment
filters. 2) Damaged by poor local tap water conditions. 3) Damaged due to connection of
equipment other than supplied by Kent Marine , or modification by the user.
This warranty is valid only in the U.S., is non-transferable and applies to original purchaser only.
No other warranties are expressed or implied and any other warranties required by law are
limited in duration to 90 days.
Most phosphate and nitrate test kits cannot read R/O, Deionized water
properly. If testing for these, they will give a positive reading.
Do not
This product is not warranted for any specific purpose. Kent
Marine will not be responsible for consequential damages arising from installation or use of the
product, including any flooding which may occur due to malfunction or faulty installation
including, but not limited to failure of installer to tighten all fittings.
Prefilter
CF1MCFCE
Post Filter
CFI SILICAMAX
Membranes for all Unit

Copied from Kent Marine. Hope it is helpful.
Matt
 

dolfans1

I'm a victim of coicumstance!
Jun 15, 2005
273
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Safety Harbor, FL
Try taking a sample of water coming directly out of the RO membrane (before it hits the DI cartridge). This should be reading pretty close to 0. Definitely less than 10. If it isn't, then the RO membrane needs replacing. If it's pretty close to zero after the RO cartridge, then it is the DI resin that needs replacing. Of course, it could be both that need replacing. At 9 months, I would be pretty sure the resin at least needs to be changed out. Is it indicating resin? If so, it will be blue when it is good, and tan/yellow when it is exhausted.
 

schigara

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Jan 2, 2005
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Memphis, Tn
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The DI has 3 easily distinguishable colors split in 1/3rd's from top to bottom. The top portion is tan/yellow, middle is brown and bottom is blue/purple.

I don't have a TDS meter yet, so on-site testing is not possible.
 

kcress

AC Members
Apr 9, 2005
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schigara; A couple of points that have been made above but bear reinforcement.

1) If you don't have a TDS meter this means you're taking a sample somewhere. Just riding around in some container will mess up your TDS readings. That is why you want to test it locally. You put a sample in a very clean container, that you have rinsed several times, with the water you want to test. Then quickly test it before any contaminates can dissolve into the solution and foul your TDS readings.

2) You really really should have a TEE and a valve between your RO and your DI. You should regularly test your RO product. Your RO can got to h@ll and your DI canister can be consumed fixing that. Then all of a sudden your DI output goes bad. It can do it in the middle of a batch.

3) The chlorine and fluoride in your tap water is what kills your RO membrane, (barring the sin of letting it dry out). These two antagonists are what your carbon block is supposed to remove completely to protect the RO membrane. Hence you should also consider a TEE and a valve for the line between the carbon block and the RO. Use this 'port' and a chlorine test kit to keep an eye on your carbon block health.

4) You use the aforementioned Carbon Block port to purge all the carbon fines out of every new CB you install, by running water out it until a few minutes after no signs of fines.

5) In my experience an RO system is working well if the TDS is between about 0 and ~10 between 11 and 14 you should be searching for a new membrane. Over 14.. run screaming?
 
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