Emergency - treating ich/cryptocaryon in tank?

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SeaDawg

AC Members
Feb 6, 2008
9
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0
Elgin, IL
OK I'm a newbie

Tanks RedSea Max
36 gal (29 gallon main)
Started the tank with cured live rock 4 weeks ago
Water quality has been rather consistent and to my knowledge within reasonable ranges
Temp 77-78 deg F
Sepcific gravity 1.021 - 1.023
pH 8.0-8.2
Alkalinity 2.5- 3.0
Calcium between 350 - 450
Ammonia 0 or undetectable
Nitrite 0 or undectable
Nitrate 0 or undectable

Day 3 added several different pieces or soft coral
Day 8 added 2 black and white (black onyx) clown fish
Day 10 added a few more soft corals
Day 11 started B Ionic two part water treatment since alkalinity and calcium which were at low end of range
Day 17 added bangai cardinal fish
Day 27 added purple firefish



Day 28 the bangai cardinal became very listless, was not hungry, and had long trail of excrement Coloring appeared normal to me (no change, nothing around eyes or gills).

Day 29 the bangai cardinal went slowly back and forth from top of tank to bottom over long period of time while exhibiting very labored breathing before finally settling to the bottom the tan.

Day 30 the bangai was dead and one of the clowns exhibited very small white dots which were slightly raised like bumps.

Over the course of this time I have made three water changes of approx. 10% or 3-4 gal at one week intervals.

I now realize I may have been going too fast, but that's a lesson learned and not something I can undo now. The local fish shop where I purchased corals and livestock did not seem to think it was too fast when I asked.

Calls to local fish shops generated several suggestions for malady and ich as follows:
place of purchase: watch the fish
another place: feed alternate food with garlic and add cleaner wrasse
another place: raise temp to 84 deg F



Internet search findings seem to indicate problem is ich or cryptocaryon which can be treated with copper and other and quarantine, although I do not have a quarantine tank.

Life cycle of cryptocaryon is shorter at higher water temp which would indicate to me that suggestion to raise temp would accelerate life cycle of parasite.

Another forum indicated that lowering pH is potentially effective.


:help:
 

tamableanimal

AC Members
Aug 26, 2007
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Caro, Michigan
I agree with Mandy. Quarentine tank where you can hypo- salinity. And a minimum of 6 weeks with 8-10 better. Ich life cycle at 79 degrees F. is around 28 days. Without a host after that time period it dies off. Hypo-salinity will kill the adult and swimmer stages, but I have yet to see any studies as to whether it works in the egg or larval stages. Time is the only proven way that I know of.
 

SeaDawg

AC Members
Feb 6, 2008
9
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Elgin, IL
thanks mandy and tamableanimal. what would you recommend for a reasonalbly priced quarantine tank and how quickly can i expect to get it set up?
 

vcyr

AC Members
Feb 4, 2007
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San Antonio, Texas
A QT can be as simple as a cheap ten gallon tank with a heater and a couple of pieces of PVC pipe for the fish to hide in. When I set mine up I used water from the main tank so it started at the same temp, pH, etc.
 

mandy21

THE REEFER GODDESS
May 16, 2006
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Ohio
A QT can be as simple as a cheap ten gallon tank with a heater and a couple of pieces of PVC pipe for the fish to hide in. When I set mine up I used water from the main tank so it started at the same temp, pH, etc.
exactly.

depends on what fish you have. I have a 10g and a 20g long for QT. It's nothing fancy. Both combined with the bare bones equipment probably cost me around $50.

you could even use buckets or a plastic rubbermaid container provided that they aren't going to be leaching anything into the water.
 

SeaDawg

AC Members
Feb 6, 2008
9
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0
Elgin, IL
thanks again:)
the links and information were extremely helpful.
snowed in tonight but will run out and get the QT setup
 
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