First Tanganyika Tank

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Tophat665

Minion of the Scaled Ones.
Jul 13, 2006
324
0
0
NoVa
I just had a 20 high tank come open - bare bottomed, cycled, currently housing a small horde of marble sized mystery snails to keep it cycled. It's got a bubble wand a heater and 2 HOB filters, and a pile of rocks that I think are some sort of Feldspar (and so kick the hardness up a bit.)

My LFS has Lamprologus multifascitus for sale, $7 each. Good price? I was thinking of laying a layer of argonite sand and 8 or a dozen escargot shells and then getting six youngish multis and letting them do their thing. So to the questions:

Are there any other fish I might consider adding to this? I am not concerned with biotoping here, so if some sort of mexican livebearer turns out to need roughly the same water, I'll surely entertain the idea.

Would it be better to skip the argonite and go with silica sand and use Tanganika buffer?

Will I need to get the mystery snails out of there first, or can I let them grow out a bit more?

Thinking of tying some java-fern into those rocks. Good idea? Hows about planting some vals in the sand? Dwarf Sags? If it's a digging problem, I can shift bits of the rockpile to keep the roots covered.

Should I ditch the bubbler?

Will a pair of smallish (Topfin 20 with a bio sponge and the equivalent old style Penguin without the biowheel) filters make too much current?

Food: Will these guys accept flake? Frozen foods? Any they particularly like? I generally keep 3 or four kinds of flake around and frozen brine, mysis, daphnia, cyclops, bloodworms, glassworms, baby brine, and chopped krill.

This tank sits in the window of my study (North facing). Will these guys do allright without putting on a background? I'd rather get what minimal sunlight in the tank that I can for plants.

Thanks.
 

Lupin

Registered Member
Sep 21, 2006
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Lupin Information Super Highway/Goldfish Informati
thegab.org
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For plants, vallisnerias are okay as well as dwarf sags. They do not dig as much as other cichlids do. The bubbler is up to you. If your filter has powerful turbulence, no need to use it. Your planned food diet is okay.
 

jpappy789

Plants need meat too
Feb 18, 2007
26,364
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Gainesville, FL
Real Name
Josh
I just had a 20 high tank come open - bare bottomed, cycled, currently housing a small horde of marble sized mystery snails to keep it cycled. It's got a bubble wand a heater and 2 HOB filters, and a pile of rocks that I think are some sort of Feldspar (and so kick the hardness up a bit.)

My LFS has Lamprologus multifascitus for sale, $7 each. Good price? I was thinking of laying a layer of argonite sand and 8 or a dozen escargot shells and then getting six youngish multis and letting them do their thing. So to the questions:Not a bad price at all. Cheaper than what I got. Though I would get more shells...generally 2 per fish to lessen any quarelling over residences.

Are there any other fish I might consider adding to this? I am not concerned with biotoping here, so if some sort of mexican livebearer turns out to need roughly the same water, I'll surely entertain the idea. I would advise other Tang cichlids however with the footprint you have the bottom of the tank is left best with only the multies. Livebearers would do ok as well as smaller rainbow species (praecox, ect.)

Would it be better to skip the argonite and go with silica sand and use Tanganika buffer?I would go argonite over silica if pH is of concern (anything around 7.8 and higher is fine). The argonite would keep the water chemistry more stable for a much longer period of time. Some people use buffer products fine but I think it is too much of a hassle to deal with, especially with water changes. JMO. Also you could try silica sand with crushed coral in the filter...I would actually recommend that.

Will I need to get the mystery snails out of there first, or can I let them grow out a bit more?I have pond snails in my tank and a good number of them survive.

Thinking of tying some java-fern into those rocks. Good idea? Hows about planting some vals in the sand? Dwarf Sags? If it's a digging problem, I can shift bits of the rockpile to keep the roots covered.Multies love digging so keep any plants tucked away to the sides. Rocks would help keep them from getting buried. Vals have worked well for me. Java fern is great as well...

Should I ditch the bubbler?No need if using HOBs.

Will a pair of smallish (Topfin 20 with a bio sponge and the equivalent old style Penguin without the biowheel) filters make too much current?Shouldnt be. I have an AC 50 and 70 on my 55. They stay at the bottom almost 100% of the time anyways.

Food: Will these guys accept flake? Frozen foods? Any they particularly like? I generally keep 3 or four kinds of flake around and frozen brine, mysis, daphnia, cyclops, bloodworms, glassworms, baby brine, and chopped krill.About the only time they DO come up towards the top is for feeding though they dont get all the way towards the surface so anything that will end up sinking in good. They are definitely not picky eaters and go after pretty much everything dropped in the tank

This tank sits in the window of my study (North facing). Will these guys do allright without putting on a background? I'd rather get what minimal sunlight in the tank that I can for plants.No background on mine yet;)

Thanks.
Respnses in red
:):):)
 

Tophat665

Minion of the Scaled Ones.
Jul 13, 2006
324
0
0
NoVa
Thanks, Lupin. New I could count on you to chime in. :)
Thanks jpappy for the seriously detialed response. I'll see about getting the shells in the next day or so and getting the fish this week.
 

toddnbecka

AC Members
Dec 17, 2004
2,808
3
38
Cumberland, MD 21502
Aragonite isn't necessary, I use good old baking soda to raise/buffer the pH for all my Africans. The multi's and buescheri get the same treatment as the yellow Lab's and Hap's, and they all thrive. Several Tbsp's in a 5 gallon bucket for each partial maintains the pH at 8.2 even in crowded tanks.
 
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