Screen Over Discus Eggs

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125gJoe

2009 VMAX
Jul 6, 2002
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This is frustrating. The Discus eggs are not hatching. Only a few eggs look like the may not be "viable" - white in color. I placed a screen over the eggs, hoping that they won't eat them as they have in the past.

I hope the screen itself is not toxic to the water.... :confused:
 

Deb2

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Shouldn't be Joe. Your pair is still young, maybe one is not fertile yet.
 

125gJoe

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Jul 6, 2002
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Originally posted by Deb2
...... Your pair is still young, maybe one is not fertile yet.
I hope that's all it is.. They do need a break!
 

125gJoe

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Jul 6, 2002
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Molino, thanks..
I'm wondering if there's much variation on hatch times? 2 days, a week?
 

Z Man

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Joe, My pair spawned about 20 times before it dawned on me that my water was too hard. My water was 175ppm Total Dissolved Solids. I purchased a RO unit and brought the ppm down to about 25. They raised the next spawn. A screen is OK but do you know that it's almost impossible to raise Discus fry without the parents doing most of the work & feeding? The fry pick their food off the sides of both parents. I do know that some people have raised fry without the parents but it is very difficult and time consuming. If you have never raised fry by yourself before, I would say this would be quite a task to undertake. As always though, I wish you the best of luck in your endeavor. As for hatch time, if the water is warm as it should be, at least 82F, the eggs should begin to wiggle in about 4 days and then another 4 before free swimming.
 
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Deb2

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The purpose of the screen is to prevent the parents from eating the eggs. They still fan the eggs. The screen goes over the eggs, but has holes to allow water movement. When the fry hatch the screen is removed and the parents raise the spawn. This works sometimes because some parents are egg eaters but once the fry hatch the parental instinct kicks in.
 

125gJoe

2009 VMAX
Jul 6, 2002
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Yes, I do know to remove the screen. Baby Discus feed right off the parents.

Deb, I do think they are still very young and Zman, my water is not right yet.

My TDS is way high, but I followed the directions on Kent' R/O Right. Now I wonder if on the next couple water changes if I should skip adding Kent's R/O Right... TDS of the tank is around 180 ppm ..... :eek:


(edit)-----
I was told when I bought the TDS meter that it should be good on the calibration and not needed for awhile. The meter is new. The R/O water right out of the system checks at " 1 "...

According to a Water Hardness Chart, it seems I still have slightly hard water in the tank.
 
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Z Man

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Yes, I do understand what you are trying to do! A TDS of 180 of WAY too high. Even if the eggs hatch, the parents can tell if they are going to survive. Discus come from soft water and 180ppm is in no way soft. How large is the tank? You could start out with water from a 'Health Food Store" from one of their RO machines. All the so called "soft water" additives just don't cut it! I'm sorry!
 

125gJoe

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Jul 6, 2002
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Originally posted by Z Man
Yes, I do understand what ......You could start out with water from a 'Health Food Store" from one of their RO machines. All the so called "soft water" additives just don't cut it! I'm sorry!
I don't understand..
I have an R/O De-ionzed water system. I know you can't use this water right from the system. It's not "fish safe" until it has additives, electrolytes, etc. put back into the water. Do I get these additives right out of the tap since Kent's R/O Right and Discus Essential is throwing my TDS way up? Should I stop using these products?

Should I use de-chlorinated tap water mixed with the R/O water to get a much lower TDS reading?

:confused:
 
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