This has happened to many of us before. A fish is ill or wounded and you don't want the illness to spread or infection to occur in the injured fish! Here are a few basic Hospital Tank procedures that I have learned through books, my LFS (Local Fish Store) and good people on AC, that have worked for me.
*For our causes we'll call the tank an injured/ill fish is originally from a "Home Tank".
Hospital Tank Procedures:
1: You need a separate tank, filter, and heater. Keep a tank that can house your largest fish alone comfortably, with a spare heater and filter in storage just for these occasions.
1a: It is often a good idea to run a spare HOB (Hang On Back) filter on all your "home tanks" in case of emergencies. (The filter should be sufficient for the spare tank you have for Hospitals, and not necessarily efficient for the tank it is set on, assuming you have another filter dedicated to just that tank.) This extra HOB is not necessary but saves a lot of time and trouble. (I personally recommend "AquaClear" filters as spare HOB filter as you can easily add either Bio-media or bio-wheels to customize the tank as needed.)
1b: I do not recommend medication, but many hobbyists do. If you plan on or think you may use medication, or simply want to keep your options open, do no have carbon in your Hospital tank filter. Carbon often neutralizes medications or renders them ineffective.
2: The first thing to do for setting up a Hospital tank is filling it with water. At least 60% of the water added to the hospital tank must come from the original or "Home tank" the injured/ill fish is from. The rest should be fresh, clean, de-chlorinated water.
3: If you have a spare HOB filter on the injured/ill fishes "Home tank", place it on the hospital tank and start it up.
3a: If you do not have a spare filter from the injured/ill fishes "Home Tank" you need to add bio media from the Original or "Home Tank" filter to the filter you are going to use on the Hospital tank. You can either cut a piece of the bio sponge from the "home tanks" original sponge and put it in the new one or if you use a canister filter you can take some of the bio wheels and put them in the new filter. (An AquaClear filter will accommodate the media, either bio sponge or bio wheels, used in both a general HOB or Canister filter.)
4: You need to gather some of the substrate (This would be the gravel/sand/rock you have at the bottom of your "Home Tank") and put them in a mesh bag. If you don't have a mesh bag you can use the foot from pantyhose or a thin dress sock. Tie a knot at the end so they don't fall out. Place the bag of rocks directly in the tank.
5: Start up the heater for the Hospital tank. Depending on the temperature of the water you put in the Hospital Tank in Step 1, you may have to wait for the Temperature in the "Home Tank" to match the temperature in the Hospital tank. You DO NOT want to place an injured/ill fish in a tank with drastic temperature differences.
6: Retrieve a bowl/bag large enough to temporarily hold your ill/injured fish.
7: Once the filter is running and the temperature in the Hospital tank is the same as the temperature in the "Home Tank" Remove some more water from the "Home Tank" and place it in the bowl retrieved in step 5. Remove the injured/ill fish and place it into the bowl place with as little stress imposed upon the ill/injured fish as possible. (It would be best to have the bowl near the "home tank" so the ill/injured fish doesn't have to make a long trip from room to room.)
7a: If you are using a bag (which is ideal) float the fish in the Hospital Tank while acclimating in step 7.
8:Acclimate your ill/injured fish to the Hospital tank like you would a new fish to your tank. Add a little water from the Hospital tank to the bowl it is currently in, slowly over a 30 minute time period.
9: Leave him alone, and fast (do not feed) it for 12 hours.
10: The next day feed the ill/injured fish and let it eat as much as it will. Watch it's eating habits. You want to make sure the fish is eating.
10a: If eating behaviors are unusual, such as not eating at all- attempt rubbing fresh, slightly crushed garlic clove on the fishes food. (If you have a jar of minced garlic you can add a drop or two of the juice from the jar to the fishes food.) This will entice the fish to eat. For some reason, they love garlic.
11: After feeding, change 70-80% of his water, again, de-chlorinating the new water being added. Repeat this processes DAILY.
12: Pay attention to the ill/injured fishes waste. If its poo seems white or stringy this may imply an internal parasite or infection. You may also want to vary the fishes diet as allowed, feed it veggies, and minimize proteins. Vitamins are just as good for fish as they are for us. You should research your specific fishes dietary needs.
13: If conditions are extreme or you are unsure, please post on Aquaria Centrals "Illness and Disease" forums for guidance and advice. There are 1000s of years of experience combined experience here on AC, and AC is here to help. Post your further questions and concerns in the appropriate forums for guidance and advice. Remember that dealing with injury/illness only makes you a better fish keeper with the knowledge of how to deal with and avoid these stressful situations.
I hope this was helpful, and good luck.
*For our causes we'll call the tank an injured/ill fish is originally from a "Home Tank".
Hospital Tank Procedures:
1: You need a separate tank, filter, and heater. Keep a tank that can house your largest fish alone comfortably, with a spare heater and filter in storage just for these occasions.
1a: It is often a good idea to run a spare HOB (Hang On Back) filter on all your "home tanks" in case of emergencies. (The filter should be sufficient for the spare tank you have for Hospitals, and not necessarily efficient for the tank it is set on, assuming you have another filter dedicated to just that tank.) This extra HOB is not necessary but saves a lot of time and trouble. (I personally recommend "AquaClear" filters as spare HOB filter as you can easily add either Bio-media or bio-wheels to customize the tank as needed.)
1b: I do not recommend medication, but many hobbyists do. If you plan on or think you may use medication, or simply want to keep your options open, do no have carbon in your Hospital tank filter. Carbon often neutralizes medications or renders them ineffective.
2: The first thing to do for setting up a Hospital tank is filling it with water. At least 60% of the water added to the hospital tank must come from the original or "Home tank" the injured/ill fish is from. The rest should be fresh, clean, de-chlorinated water.
3: If you have a spare HOB filter on the injured/ill fishes "Home tank", place it on the hospital tank and start it up.
3a: If you do not have a spare filter from the injured/ill fishes "Home Tank" you need to add bio media from the Original or "Home Tank" filter to the filter you are going to use on the Hospital tank. You can either cut a piece of the bio sponge from the "home tanks" original sponge and put it in the new one or if you use a canister filter you can take some of the bio wheels and put them in the new filter. (An AquaClear filter will accommodate the media, either bio sponge or bio wheels, used in both a general HOB or Canister filter.)
4: You need to gather some of the substrate (This would be the gravel/sand/rock you have at the bottom of your "Home Tank") and put them in a mesh bag. If you don't have a mesh bag you can use the foot from pantyhose or a thin dress sock. Tie a knot at the end so they don't fall out. Place the bag of rocks directly in the tank.
5: Start up the heater for the Hospital tank. Depending on the temperature of the water you put in the Hospital Tank in Step 1, you may have to wait for the Temperature in the "Home Tank" to match the temperature in the Hospital tank. You DO NOT want to place an injured/ill fish in a tank with drastic temperature differences.
6: Retrieve a bowl/bag large enough to temporarily hold your ill/injured fish.
7: Once the filter is running and the temperature in the Hospital tank is the same as the temperature in the "Home Tank" Remove some more water from the "Home Tank" and place it in the bowl retrieved in step 5. Remove the injured/ill fish and place it into the bowl place with as little stress imposed upon the ill/injured fish as possible. (It would be best to have the bowl near the "home tank" so the ill/injured fish doesn't have to make a long trip from room to room.)
7a: If you are using a bag (which is ideal) float the fish in the Hospital Tank while acclimating in step 7.
8:Acclimate your ill/injured fish to the Hospital tank like you would a new fish to your tank. Add a little water from the Hospital tank to the bowl it is currently in, slowly over a 30 minute time period.
9: Leave him alone, and fast (do not feed) it for 12 hours.
10: The next day feed the ill/injured fish and let it eat as much as it will. Watch it's eating habits. You want to make sure the fish is eating.
10a: If eating behaviors are unusual, such as not eating at all- attempt rubbing fresh, slightly crushed garlic clove on the fishes food. (If you have a jar of minced garlic you can add a drop or two of the juice from the jar to the fishes food.) This will entice the fish to eat. For some reason, they love garlic.
11: After feeding, change 70-80% of his water, again, de-chlorinating the new water being added. Repeat this processes DAILY.
12: Pay attention to the ill/injured fishes waste. If its poo seems white or stringy this may imply an internal parasite or infection. You may also want to vary the fishes diet as allowed, feed it veggies, and minimize proteins. Vitamins are just as good for fish as they are for us. You should research your specific fishes dietary needs.
13: If conditions are extreme or you are unsure, please post on Aquaria Centrals "Illness and Disease" forums for guidance and advice. There are 1000s of years of experience combined experience here on AC, and AC is here to help. Post your further questions and concerns in the appropriate forums for guidance and advice. Remember that dealing with injury/illness only makes you a better fish keeper with the knowledge of how to deal with and avoid these stressful situations.
I hope this was helpful, and good luck.
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