anemone and sarcophyton

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meezercrazy

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Dec 4, 2003
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Hello Everybody,
I'm new here and have had a tank set up for about 6 months now. One of the first things I got was a Bulb-Tip Anemone. It was doing fine for the first couple of months then I got a Sarcophyton (Mushroom Leather Coral). The Anemone's Health Seemed to deteriorate, but I do not know if it was because of the leather coral. I read somewhere that leather corals are poisonous to Xenia. Is the same thing true regarding anemone's?

I have star polyps and candy coral too. The star polyps are doing fine and multiplying, and the candy coral is doing fine too.

Can someone answer this riddle? :confused:
 

OrionGirl

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I've never heard of leathers being toxic--and can attest that I have several leathers in with very healthy pulsing xenia.

What lights do you have? Feeding? Tank location? While I discourage people from getting an anenome for their clowns--the reverse is not true. Wild anenomes are much healthier with a resident population of clowns, and I think the same may hold true for captives. You may want to find a compatible clown for your anenome, and make sure it is fed (silversides, meaty foods!) about every 2-4 days.
 

meezercrazy

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I have just a 29 Gallon bowfront tank with a single flourescent bulb hood, using an 18,000 k power-glo bulb. I know I need to upgrade the lighting, but money is a little tight right now.:sad
Everything else seems to be doing ok. The tank is located away from any windows, vents or doors.

I feed the anemone every other day. either frozen mysis, brine shrimp or krill and on occasion give some clam or shrimp from the
can when we are fixin' dinner.

I do have 1 Clarki clownfish that seemed to be very happy when I
first got the anemone and snuggled up to it immediatly and would try and feed it flake food. Other fish include 2 firefish, 1 six line wrasse and a coral beauty angel.

Any suggestions on a site or DIY on lighting would be most appreciated :D
 

OrionGirl

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I'd say the lighting in most likely the problem, but it could be other water quality issues as well. What are your tank parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, specific gravity)? How often do you do water changes? Do you have a protien skimmer?

Start saving now to upgrade lights to at least power compacts--check www.hellolights.com for very reasonably priced PC hoods with built in fans.
 

meezercrazy

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My tank parameters are:

Ammonia 0 ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate 10 ppm
Specific Gravity 1.023

I do a 10-20% water change about every 2-3 weeks and use any salt mix that is available at my LFS. Even then I can't seem to get the nitrate below 10 ppm. It's like a curse. Sometimes I wonder if it isn't the local water here. I don't have a protein skimmer yet, but I will by the end of the month.
(X-mas present!):D

Is tap water (dechlored, mixed and conditioned), of course, a bad choice for a water change or is there a better solution that isn't too expensive. I over heard a lady ask my LFS about RO water. What the heck is that???:confused:
 

Gealcath

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RO (reverse osmosis) water is the same as distilled water (its basically 100% pure water with no contaminates or disolved minerals), although treated tap water is basically the same thing (just let it sit for a couple days) Also test the tap water for nitrates and other stuff.
 

mogurnda

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leather toxicity

Although this may not be your problem, many soft corals put out toxins for defense/offense. Sarcophyton and sinularia are two of of the worst. To keep mine from poisoning the other corals in the tank, I use carbon, which gets changed whenever the montipora gets pouty.

Nonetheless, I agree with OrionGirl about light being the likely culprit. 20 watts over a 29 gallon tank is not really enough. You might think of doing a retrofit with a kit from Aquarium Hobbyist if you can't afford a new hood.

If I understand correctly, it sounds like you are using different salt mixes. While I am not chauvinistic about brands, I have noticed that people often have negative consequences when they change salt mixes. They are all slightly different, and livestock often have trouble if they are subjected to alterations in tank chemistry. My suggestion is to stick with one brand.

One problem with regular tap water is the possibility of contaminants. Mine has nitrate, and I worry about copper. Reverse-osmosis water is subjected to several levels of filtration to get rid of most contaminants, including NO3 and metals. You might just dechlorinate your water and run some tests to see what's in it. Marine tests will work on fresh water.
 

Gealcath

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I use tap water and ours is hard water with no nitrates and no copper, but to be safe i still add ammonia remover and dechlorinating chemicals to remove any toxic metals and then let the water sit for 3 or 4 days. I only have a chocolate chip starfish in my 15gl aquarium and it does great.
 

Kurt

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I invested in an RO machine a few years ago after buying RO water was gettting costly. RO water is the best for drinking and cooking and some people use it just for making better coffee.
My RO is in the basement and plummed to my kitchen sink. I got tired of adding water to the fish tank so I plummed the pressure line also to a float in my fish tank.
 

meezercrazy

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Thanks for all the Advice!!

I just purchased a 55W Compact Retrofit kit with a 50/50 bulb from AH Supply. I hope that is enough to do the trick, it was all I could afford.:)

Anyway, I think I will try the RO water next time I do a water change and see how that works. I also think I will try to stick with one salt mix from now on, that sounds logical to me. I guess it would be like feeding your cats new food after they've been used to something else for so long. They barf!!! :sick:

Thank a bunch, I'll keep you all posted!!!!:D
 
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