Conskis 34 Gal Solana Build

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Conski

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May 8, 2009
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Decided to start a new thread because the old one referred to a quick transfer which i am no longer doing.

I set the tank up and build the stand (first time working with tools independently) Got my 32 Gal Trash can filled with my RO and went out and bought PVC to do the floating reef. Heres some pics of progress, ill have new live rock and the sand (which i have already rinsed and dried) and clean RO in the tank on monday which i will let cure for 2 weeks before moving my current live rock into the tank.. let me know if you think i should change the PVC. the current tank will be moved all the way to the right into the corner and rehooded and the solana underneath the MH.

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Conski

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i dk why its not uploading all the pictures haha but thats the biocube stand and theres the PVC pipe set up
 

Ace25

www.centralcoastreefclub. com
Oct 3, 2005
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Not really liking the PVC.. not quite sure what your trying to accomplish with that layout.

First, I would use smaller diameter PVC pipe. Then make a smaller structure. You mentioned before you wanted a valley going diagnal, so I would make 2 small triangles out of pvc with legs/feet depending on how deep you want your sandbed. I am guessing your not going DSB on such a small tank, which is fine, I wouldn't do a DSB either in that tank. You still want it tall enough for the sand to still have about a 1/2" gap between the bottom of the PVC and top of the sand so flow can go all the way across the sand (if your using sand at all, you may be going barebottom).

If your going with sand, make the PVC structure smaller than what you think so you give yourself room for a sand area. Believe me, tanks don't look nearly as good with rock all the way to the glass. I wish my PVC was just an inch or 2 smaller all the way around to give me that much more sand area... but nothing I want to change now. When you know you have the PVC just right then I would silicone the legs to the bottom so they don't move. You don't need much, just a few dabs at the base each leg just so it doesn't move. Also, you don't have to glue the PVC together.. I did and then realized it wasn't going to move anyway, no way it would come apart from not being glued.

Hope that helps.
 

Conski

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I think i understand what you mean. i am using sand.. not a big fan of barebottoms to be honest. AND SINCE YOUR the master of the floating reef (least on this forum) so i think im going to follow your advise.. i had to read it a few times over but i think i understand what you mean by the gap between sand and pvc.. i want it so that the sand gets flow over its surface so there's supposed to be a little gap in between sand and PVC.

Ill go with my original plan and have two piles one in the upper right hand corner in the back and one in the front left hand corner.. so your saying i should make two small triangles? to rest the rock on?
 

Conski

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i might just work with what i have and use squares
 

Conski

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tomorrow after school im going to home depot and ill by the smallest PVC there is (one below mine) and buy more then ill need so im sure ill have enough... and ill see what i can do with it
 
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Conski

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I changed my mind up. No more Reef i feel like it would be to hard and dangerous with it so close to the class. im going to make a 3D rectangle and put in the back 10 inches from the from(it'll be against the the black panel) t of the tank and 4 inches from either side.. that way i have 10 inches of sand infront and 4 inches on either side of the rock.. im going to try and make sort of like a pyramid meaning the part of the rock touching the PVC will be biggest and as it goes further up the shelves will gradually get smaller.

Im very picky with live rock so if i dont like this ill be changing.. took about 8 trys with my 14 to get it to where i liked it.. i might even do that in this one on a bigger scale
 

Conski

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Okay i began today actually building a legit PVC structure(not one i made in 4 minutes lol) by actually incorporating math and measuring.. which are not my favorite things nor am i very good at so making one is hard enough haha..

my sand bed is 2 inches deep so i made my structure come out exactly 3 ( i know you said 1/2" inch above) but i figured 1" wouldn't make much of a difference just more cave space for my shy scarlet shrimp to go under if he does. since its 20" across i made it so that i have 4" of space between the rock and glass. The first 12" bar is exactly in the middle of the black filtering panel against the back off it and goes from one side to the other.. there is another 12" bar which is 8" across and connected by 3 beams. CONFUSED YET? this leaves me roughly 9 or 10 inches of sand space in front of the rock structure which i can hopefully make into some sort of covey pyramid.

Ill post a pic once i have it finished tomorrow and put into the aquarium.
 

Conski

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Ok here is the final product.. took a while but its as good as i think i can do.

I bought a smaller sized PVC as well. Exactly 4 inches from the glass. 12 inches wide and 9 inches long. I used Cable ties in the gaps where there was no PVC just for extra support i guess.. my dads suggestion and i liked it so i rolled with it.

The sand bed is 2 inches deep and the pvc is 1 inch above the sand, extra space but whatever i dont think it matters to much. i also have about 8 to 10 inches from the rock to the front so alot of nice sand space.

Hopefully its better then the last one(even though it wasn't my original idea) so here ya go....:nilly:

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Ace25

www.centralcoastreefclub. com
Oct 3, 2005
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I would leave a 1" gap between the back PVC and the wall so flow can come up the wall as well. Some rocks may hang over and block it but at least it wont be a complete blockage like with the PVC. The zip ties.. I wouldn't do it. I can see fish getting hurt by it. When you put your first layer of rock in, first make sure it is the most stable and best layout, then when you think you have it just right I would epoxy the spots where the rock touches the PVC to secure it even more.

Also, one addition I would make to the frame is to cut the center support piece and put a T on there as well facing down, then PVC-Slip-Threaded coupler and put a threaded plug on the end for adjustment. This will give the center of your frame support with a leg.

Edit: Here, couple quite MS Paint pics to show 2 different methods.





 
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