External parasite?

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timkyen

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Sep 9, 2009
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hello AC community!

I noticed this circular 8 legged bug-like thing attached to the dorsal fin of my fantail ryukin goldfish. Later on... I found it had hopped host and attached itself to my black moor! I talked to an employee at Petsmart and suggested removing it with tweezers... which I did. Now I am curious to know WHAT THE HECK this thing! Please see picture...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/12543465@N00/3905318126/

Help me identify this evil and what I should do with my fish now that I removed it!

Ty
 

Lupin

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Sep 21, 2006
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:welcome: to AC, Tim!

I am so relieved you found the right forum to ask. I moved your thread here as it concerns goldfish more than tropical exotics.

That's certainly fish lice (argulus). The Petsmart employee is correct in telling you to remove the parasite. Unfortunately, by this time, they may have also reproduced enough so watch out for more juvenile fish lice. I happened to have had infestations of fish lice and anchorworms with my own goldfish. What I did was manually removed the fish lice and it was painstaking to do it especially as I was dealing with 8 goldfish myself. Next thing, I treated my tank with trichlorfon. It destroyed the juvenile fish lice. Adult fish lice will need higher concentration but removing them manually will save your fish from fatal doses required to destroy the adults.

Check this whole database.:thumbsup:

If you have any more questions, please do not hesitate to ask!

Fish Lice (Argulus)
Description:
A major threat in a pond or tank
Argulus, or fish lice, represent a major threat to fish health; both as a result of direct tissue damage and secondary infections. Fish lice are one of the biggest parasites (5-10 mm) and visible with the naked eye.

Argulus feed by first inserting a pre-oral sting which injects digestive enzymes into the body. They then suck out the liquidised body fluids with their proboscis-like mouth. Feeding can take place on the skin or in the gills.

This feeding activity causes intense irritation. Fish are damaged by the constant piercing of the skin by the stylet and there is often localised inflammation. The other danger is that opportunistic bacteria such as Aeromonas or Pseudomonas sometimes infect these damaged areas leading to skin ulcers and gill disease. It is also believed that the stylus may occasionally ?inject? viruses and bacteria into the fish. The various spines, suckers and hooks that lice use for attachment may also cause additional tissue damage. So all-in-all a thoroughly nasty parasite!

In addition to physical damage, affected fish are subjected to severe stress, which often leads to secondary parasite infestations such as white-spot and Costia. This type of combined attack on stressed and often weakened fish can result in high numbers of fatalities.

So quite clearly, even finding one louse warrants immediate treatment and a follow up examination to check for secondary health problems

Identification
Biologically, Argulus are crustacean parasites in the subphylum Crustacea - which means they are grouped along with shrimps, prawns and water fleas etc. Animals in this group have a rigid or semi-rigid chitin exoskeleton, which has to be moulted as they grow larger. They are in the class Branchiura, a group of crustaceans with very similar features; all branchiurians are fish parasites.

Although it is easy to spot lice when you know they are there, they are easy to miss in the rush to take skin scrapes. To the naked eye they appear as very small dark spots that are easy to overlook unless they move. They are often found in relatively sheltered areas behind the fins or around the head. They are usually easier to spot on fins rather than the body, as they tend to show up more against a plain transparent background. Lice are oval-shaped and flat and capable of moving very quickly. In an aquarium, they can sometimes be seen swimming as they move from host to host.

Fish with a heavy lice infestation will show a classic irritation response such as rubbing and flashing. At a later stage they will become lethargic. Affected fish may have focal red lesions on their body.

The Life Cycle of Argulus
As with most fish parasites, they have a high reproductive potential. Mating takes place on the fish, after which the female swims away and lays eggs on plants and other submerged objects. When the eggs hatch the juvenile passes through several metamorphic changes as it develops into an adult. Around 4 days after hatching, the newly-hatched juvenile actively seeks a host and continues its development on the fish. The whole cycle takes between 30 – 100 days depending on temperature. The eggs can over-winter and hatch in spring as water temperatures increase. Adults can survive without a host for several days. Any treatment plan has to take account of emerging juveniles and therefore prevailing temperatures.

Treatment:
The most successful and effective treatments against lice are organophosphates. Using three treatments over the estimated life cycle of the parasite almost always eradicates lice. At typical summer pond temperatures of 20oC or higher, treatments at 10-day intervals will kill existing adults and juveniles as well as emerging juveniles. The down-side is that in the UK organophosphates are banned for use as fish disease treatments! They are still obtainable - but at a sky-high price!

There are no other treatments currently available that are likely to be totally effective. There is some suggestion that using a chitin inhibitor such as dimilin will stop the juveniles developing as they moult their exoskeleton but there has been no real testing done on this proposal. (dimilin)

More environmentally friendly alternatives are currently undergoing licensing evaluation tests for use in the food-fish industry. However, the draw back is again liable to be costs. Initial reports suggest that these alternatives may be better at controlling rather than eradicating lice.

Suggested Treatments:
1. Dimilin Powder
The only known method of killing this parasite, without killing the fish is DIMILIN POWDER which can be used safely at any water temperature and has an action of sterilizing the adult and larval stages of this parasite which insures that all eggs produced, after the application of Dimilin, will not hatch.

Method: Dimilin Powder at the rate of 1 gram per ton of pond water. Measure out the quantity required and mix in a plastic bucket with pond water ensuring that the powder is dissolved then add to the pond in the previous manner. A second dosage may be needed to ensure that the life cycle of the anchor worm has been halted. After this second application the dead adults, which will still be hanging from the fish, can be removed using tweezers but making sure that the hooks, as well as the tail of the anchor worm are removed and then apply a proprietary topical dressing to prevent a secondary infection.

2. Sera Cyprinopur
Follow the instructions accordingly. Use Sera Baktopur to treat the wounds of the fish after the fish lice have been pulled out. When pulling fish lice out of the fish, firmly grasp the tweezers near its base where it is burying to the skin and quickly pull it out.

3. Coumaphos
Coumaphos is an extremely dangerous substance so this may be best administered by mixing one gram on a twenty liter bucket and grabbing at least a liter which makes up for a 5% solution for every 150 gallons of water.

This particular treatment may be best avoided however and try safer options such as dimilin instead.

4. Jungle Anchors Away
Change 25% of the pond water before use.

Use one teaspoon (5 grams) to 40 US gallons. Maintain strong aeration during treatment. Clean measuring device before every use.
Content treats 4,520 US gallons. If needed, safely treat up to three times. Wait six days between treatments. Change 25% of the water before each treatment. Remove activated carbon during use.

Data retrieved from http://www.drsfostersmith.com/.

5. Trichlorfon
Follow instructions carefully. Trichlorfon is available as Masoten, Metriphonate, Dylox, Neguvon, etc.

Discussion Thread:
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/fo...ad.php?t=42009

[URL="http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/2030/fishliceqn7.th.png"][/URL]
 
Last edited:

froglover007

Obsessed 13-year-old
Apr 15, 2009
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Alberta
Well said Lupe. Welcome to AC Tim and I hope you have a good time browsing the forums.
 

timkyen

AC Members
Sep 9, 2009
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I put in some Coppersafe since I figured it was a external parasite... will that help kill juvenile fish lice?
 

Lupin

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Sep 21, 2006
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I don't normally advise copper-based meds as copper-based meds tend to remain in the tank for long periods. I keep invertebrates myself and while removing them out of my tanks temporarily is okay assuming the medicines I use are toxic to inverts, I'm fine with it but treatments that linger for a long time and potentially harming the inverts are another story for me. Copper-based treatments are toxic to all invertebrates but you will be surprised a few like Malaysian trumpet snails can still shrug it off as they are well protected under their shells.

What I would have done here is either dimilin or trichlorfon. The dimilin can dissolve ther keratin shell and destroy them once it penetrates their innards. Either treatments work but you'll need gloves to handle them. Trichlorfon is far more toxic. I suffered mild allergic reactions from contacting it.

Wait for a week or two and observe for fish lice emerging. If by two weeks, there are no more fish lice, your copper treatment may have done its job otherwise I would simply switch to dimilin or trichlorfon (preferably dimilin) as these are the ones designed to do their job effectively. I would not be surprised if some fish lice emerged unscathed from copper as most can protect themselves well from the toxic effects of copper.
 

Flaringshutter

Befriend a feeder!
Oct 17, 2006
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Southern California
I agree with Lupin - you probably will need a stronger antiparasite that is specifically for fish lice. They are a really tough parasite. Copper meds may not work, but as Lupe mentioned they tend to permeate the tank and are difficult to remove. You could try adding extra carbon to the filter and changing it frequently over the next week to remove as much as possible, then starting on a regimen of dimilin or trichlorfon.
 
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