Lighting Upgrade

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pkumar

pkumar

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Dec 22, 2008
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Thinking of upgrading to MH lighting fixture. Have had some issues with current T5 unit. My tank is mostly LPS. Here are my questions.

1) Any experience with products from Hamilton Technology? I am looking
at the Belize Sun fixture.

2) Will I need a chiller if I choose the 250W Bulbs vs the 150W. I'm not
sure that I really need the extra wattage. I do not have room to plumb
a chiller into existing set-up.

3) Bulbs are offered in 10K and 14K ... Not sure what to pick?

- Thanks for any input.

- Prashanth
 
Amphiprion

Amphiprion

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1) They are OK. Most things you can piece together yourself and come out much better, both in efficiency/efficacy and often financially.

2) Not necessarily. Various pumps often impart much more heat than lighting. If your tank runs on the high side without the use of a heater, then I would look to more energy efficient pumps first. Even then, generous use of fans and a well ventilated canopy (if you have one) often negates the need for a chiller. If your temps stay 84 degrees or lower year-round, there isn't a need for a chiller, IMHO.

3) Depends. To one degree, there is personal preference involved. Chances are the 10K will be physically brighter. The Hamilton 14Ks are also notoriously dim. If it were me and I had to go with Hamilton's lamps, I would get the 10K. You can always get another lamp that is bluer and brighter, though.
 
pkumar

pkumar

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Dec 22, 2008
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Thanks Amphiprion

Tank Temp is 80 with two 250W heaters. I do not have a canopy, so may be able to pull off the higher wattage bulbs without chiller. I think I will opt for the 10K bulbs as well.
 
Ace25

Ace25

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Oct 3, 2005
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Just my experience, but I do have a sealed/vented canopy, is that 10k's run A LOT hotter than 14k/20k bulbs. When I run the XM 10k on my setup my chiller runs a solid 6 hours out of 8 the MH is on, when I use 14k or 20k bulbs my chiller runs about 20 minutes, one cycle, right towards the end of the day. Just something I noticed myself that may help you out.

Questions you asked:
1: I agree with Amph, although I have to question the reasoning for you switching from T5's to MH other than "problems".. what type? Just find it hard to justify the switch if it is a simple fix on your T5s.

2. Answered above with my experience, but again, I agree with Amph that pumps play a bigger role in heat than most lighting setups.

3. Loaded question... lot of personal preference involved in that question.. not going to even step into that trap. ;)
 
Amphiprion

Amphiprion

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pkumar said:
Thanks Amphiprion

Tank Temp is 80 with two 250W heaters. I do not have a canopy, so may be able to pull off the higher wattage bulbs without chiller. I think I will opt for the 10K bulbs as well.
Click to expand...
You may also want to consider this thread: http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212900

It goes a bit more in depth on the matter of bulbs and bulb choice and gives you a better look at choices and potential reasons to make those choices (despite the fact that it relates to bulb age and when to change bulbs, the same necessary info is there). As you'll see from the thread, there are a lot of differences, caveats, ifs/ands, etc. You'll have to look around and make a decision based upon your own deliberations.
 
pkumar

pkumar

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Dec 22, 2008
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Thanks ACE, Amphiprion - I will certainly look into the thread. Things can get pretty technical quickly it seems when getting into this topic. I'm basically looking for a reliable all in one system - plug it and forget it type. Corals are doing ok under current lighting (when it works) , starting to see more progressive corraline growth too.


ACE - The issue that im having with the system....I'm not sure how to describe it. There are a total of 8 - 39W bulbs - in four rows (two per row - daylight alternating with "actinic"). In the past several weeks, either two of the daylight bulbs dont come on or two of the actinic bulbs dont come on ( on the same 1/2 of the tank - so it will appear that right half of the aquarium is not lit correctly) Bulbs are on a timer. Manufacturer replaced the daylight bulbs - did the trick. Now the actinics are doing the same thing. I've taken the fixture down, made sure that everyting is snapped in place. Sometimes this works, and sometimes it doesn't. I really dont believe that it was a bulb issue, but maybe it is. This can be a problem for several weeks at a time, and then it starts to work correctly again. It's gotten a little bit frustrating, and that is why I was looking for a new fixture. Sorry for the long message. Thanks.

- PRashanth
 
Ace25

Ace25

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To me that sounds like a faulty connection somewhere.. normally I would suggest looking at the ends of the cables where the plugs meet the bulbs, that is the most common spot for corrosion to happen, although a faulty bulb could definitely cause the same problems, although for it to happen 2x on 2 different banks for you is very uncommon, unless the whole lighting is exposed to salt air (no plastic cover over your T5s), but if it is a fixture it should have a cover. Only other problem is ballast, but either a ballast works or it doesn't, they don't display the symptoms your describing.

When you said "Your current T5 setup" that can be taken 2 ways.. it could mean "Current" as in "Current USA", or could just mean current as in the lighting you have now. I have two Current USA T5 fixtures on my 29G and I still would highly recommend them for a lower end (LPS) light system. Very reliable from my experience, although there is room for improvement (individual reflectors instead of simply contoured).
 
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Amphiprion

Amphiprion

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I would also second a faulty connection. Have you tried switching bulbs around to potentially rule out faulty bulbs? Basically figuring it out is a process of elimination--start with the simplest potential solution and work from there.
 
Ace25

Ace25

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Tips that may help also...

1. MAKE SURE THE LIGHT IS UNPLUGGED. Seems obvious but I have to say it.

2. Pull out all bulbs on the faulty side and take a little sand paper to the pins on the bulbs to remove any oxidation that may be on the pins and also get a needle or something similar that can fit in the holes of the plugs and scrape the inside of the connectors, scratching/roughing them up a little. They are small holes so only so much you can do, but if you make the inside holes and pins all shiny and new looking that should at least let you eliminate or resolve the connection points as the source of your problems. If the problem still happens, then switch bulbs around or better yet, try new bulbs in place in case the bulb that has the problem is intermittent. Just moving the bulb from the bad spot to another spot may make the bulb work again on its own, which doesn't help you narrow down the problem really.
 
Amphiprion

Amphiprion

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It narrows down the possibility of a faulty bulb. Not all ballasts work the same, but many electronic ballasts will not fire when there is an internal problem with a bulb.
 
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