New 72 gallon bowfront,FOWLR.

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davexstumpe

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Mar 8, 2007
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so after watching a few of you guys documenting their setup with pictures, i plan on documenting the setup of this tank with pics.(as soon as i get them.)

ok. after searching on craigslist for a few weeks, i finally found a pretty good deal on a 72 gallon bowfront tank.

This is whats included:
Tank, cabinet/stand, glass tops, light, wet/dry filter w/ overflow, 3 pumps, UV sterilizer, a couple heaters, almost full bucket of salt, python, testing kits.

I'm going to pick it all up tomorrow after work.

I've had FW for years but I'm a complete newbie when it come to SW, but i've been doing a lot of research.

What else am i going to need?
On the shopping list right now is:
1) Hydrometer
2) Sand (Do i need to buy live or is it a waste? How much will i need?)
3) Powerhead (What will i need, any suggestions on brands?)
4) Bioballs? The lady threw out the bioballs from her wet/dry filter when she took the tank down.
5) Live rock (I know buying base will save me some $$.How much live rock, base rock should i get? How many pounds of each? Do i have to buy it all right away or can ii buy some to begin with and add more down the road?)

Also. im confused about the wet dry filter. How do these work exactly? How do i set it up? I know it comes with the overflow box that hangs on the back of the tank. Sorry if this is a dumb question. bare with me here i've never used a sump/wetdry or anything similar. Also how do i make sure if the power goes out that either tank doesn't overflow?

Another question. As for the water. What are the problems with using tap water? Is there something i should test for in it to see if it's possible i use it? Or is RO/DI a must?

Also if i'm missing anything please let me know.

Thanks guys.
 

davexstumpe

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Another question. How is the noise of a wet/dry filter? Tank will be about 15 feet from my bed.
 

Ace25

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For SW, at least RO is 99.9% of the time a must. RO/DI is better, but not needed for a FOWLR tank. The filter, it depends how the stand is built, if it is sealed, how open the wet/dry is.. so many variables and so many tweaks you can do to make it quieter if it is too noisy for you that is usually isn't a concern.

Really, it is best to get pics of exactly what you have when you get it, and then take pics of just the equipment you have questions about and we can answer the questions for you much more accurately.
 

greech

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May 13, 2009
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So you pulled the trigger on the bow! They are very nice looking tanks. +1 to pics, they will help out a lot. Overflow and drilled tanks are usually a bit louder than those that are not but their are a number of ways to reduce/eliminate the noise. You'll get it all worked out, just don't rush it and all will be well.

You will definitely need the following to start with:
-Hydrometer or refractometer (the later being a little more $ but more accurate). I do like my Instant Ocean hydrometer though and it was only $10.
-Sand. You can go bare bottom but if you want sand do it now. Live is not neccessary but make sure you wash dry sand really well and buy aragonite based sand either way. Buy sand not crushed coral.
-Powerheads. You mentioned 3 pumps came with the tank (assume 1 is a return from the wet dry). The other two might be able to be used as PHs for now.
-RO or RO/DI water. I really recommend against tap. LFS that sell RO/DI (mine sells it for $0.26/gaoon) usually have containers you can borrow to get the water home. Don't worry you will only need to lug 72+ gallons one time :). After that you will only need 10 to 20 gallons for WC's and top offs. Definitely look into a RO/DI filter down the road. www.bulkreefsupply.com sells some great units for very good prices.
-Liverock. I would get 60+ lbs total for that tank and would buy maybe 20 lbs of premium, well cured LR and the other 40 lbs or so would be dry rock. If you don;t have a good source for dry rock Bulk Reef Supply sells some very nice dry rock (the pukani and figi are both really pretty with lots of holes and very pourous). www.reefcleaners.org is also a good place for dry rock.
-Test kits for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate and pH (advise against "test strips"). API is a good one. You might have something from your FW setups?

Congrats on the new tank :)
 

davexstumpe

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Thanks so much guys. I actually found an RO unit in my area used for $50. Hopefully it's still available.

I will have pics up probably after 7 p.m. here.

I'll wait to buy anything because the lady said she has a whole other bucket of supplies and see what she has.

Should i buy all the rock at once or add some gradually?

I do have all the API freshwater test kits, do those work for saltwater as well?
 

davexstumpe

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**** snow storm over here is Jersey really ruined my plans.
I do have the tank now and and taking some pics. Hopefully should have some up today/tonight.

I found someone selling a Kenmore RO Unit. Any opinions on this unit?
 

davocean

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Nov 18, 2009
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Wet/dry filters don't really apply to SW, I would just use it as a sump, and definitely w/out bio balls, they are a nitrate sink.
As for sand, don't waste $$ on storebought LS, it has too much die off IMO, better to go w/ dry, and if you can, add a scoup/handful from an est system, this is fastest cycle.
RO/DI will save you a ton of headaches when it comes to nuissance algae, so I say it is a must.
Spend the $$ on a refractometer rather than hydrometer, way more accurate.
LR should be 1-2 lbs per gallon, and I would look for someone selling private for best deal, and if you can get cycled/established LR.
Many reefers getting out of hobby sell for like $2 lb.
Sump return pump should be close to 3-5x turnover, and powerheads for rest of flow, I would aim for a min of 20-30x turnover for a fowler.
Tunze nano's and koralias are great.
You will need test kits for SW, amo, nitrite, nitrate, alk, PH are most important, calcium and mag will also be needed later if any corals.
What lights did this come w/ and how old are bulbs?
 

davexstumpe

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Thanks for all the help guys. So i finally set up everything and bought most of my equiptment. I have pictures at home which i'll post when i get home from work tonight.

I bought the tank used in GREAT shape. Only problem is the single 48" light strip that the tank came with. I don't know what the previous owner was using it for but it leaves a LOT to be desired.

The guy i bought live rock from was selling a Coralife 4x65 watt deluxe lunar aqualight with the LED moon lights for $150 new. This is obviously a great deal, but how is this light? I wasn't intending to do corals but i need a new light anyway, so i might as well spend the extra $ and expand what i can do. Is this light good for corals?
 

Ace25

www.centralcoastreefclub. com
Oct 3, 2005
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The guy i bought live rock from was selling a Coralife 4x65 watt deluxe lunar aqualight with the LED moon lights for $150 new. This is obviously a great deal, but how is this light? I wasn't intending to do corals but i need a new light anyway, so i might as well spend the extra $ and expand what i can do. Is this light good for corals?
Terrible light, too much power and heat for the output you get, plus you can get a T5HO light for less $ brand new that will give you about double the output of that light for less than 1/2 the power. This link is still a entry level light, there are much better ones than this, but for the price and for a beginner I think it is a good light to start out with.

http://www.marinedepot.com/Current_...xtures-Current_USA-CU01136-FILTFIT5T5-vi.html
 
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