water changes

I use Prime conditioner, and API liquid test kits.When you do a fish in cycle, you want to do a water change when you detect ammonia or nitrite, as they will kill your fish. Keep them as low as possible.

She said fishless cycle.

Water changes should involve substrate cleaning too. I use a Python for that.
http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=3910

Here is more info on BW:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=19348

Fishless Cycling:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/library/water-filtration/fishless-cycling/

No, she said with fish.

OH NO, DON'T USE FISH FOR CYCLING!!! See my link on fishless cycling.

I agree do fishless cycle, its much better and safe. The first time I cycled a tank, the person who helped me at the lfs told me to buy goldfish to cycle but never really explained it to me. So I bought goldfish set them in the tank, set my filter, put biospira. And then there gills puffed up my fish lived but eventually died from I'm guessing high ammonia spikes. Anyway I also recommend the fishless cycle that way you don't torture your fish.

If you already have the fish, I would go out and get some Dr Tim's One and Only to help cycle the tank faster. Tetra SafeStart is another one that may help, but I've heard that it's hit and miss. I've used it one time, and it worked fine with a slight nitrite spike that settled back to 0 after only a couple hours (had used it when moving a smaller tank and all contents into a larger tank, though).

When I do WCs, I try to gravel vac one half of the tank (moving decor to make sure that everything has been done. Once I'm done vacuuming, there is usually still some water left to drain (I usually do 50-75% water changes), and I try to catch debris that I missed or stirred up while doing that. The next week I do the other half of the tank. I think it helps not disturb the beneficial bacteria in the gravel as much as doing the whole tank all at once.