Page 4 of 14 FirstFirst 123456789 ... LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 136
  1. #31
    Senior Member
    Usergroup
    AC Members
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Last Activity
    09-10-2012 4:16 PM
    Posts
    291
    So on the sump size issue, here's what I figured (please feel free to check my math!).

    ~45ft of pvc per type (3/4" and 2") This is both runs per pipe size added together (rough estimate).

    I realize these are outside dimensions, I'm overestimating on purpose. Better safe than sorry.

    2" pipes | 3.14 x (1)^2 X45 X 12 = 1695 sq in / 251 = 6.75 Gallons

    3/4" pipes | 3.14 x (.375)^2 X 4 5X 12 = 235.5 sq in / 251 = 1 Gallon

    +

    Tanks runoff | 48 X 20 X 1 = 960 sq in / 251 = 4g x 2 = 8 Gallons

    So overestimating it looks like I need to account for about 16 gallons of back flow. For some reason that doesn't seem right, that doesn't seem like enough water. Did I miss something?

    If that is correct, a 55g 3/4 full should provide plenty of space for back flow. What am I missing?





  2. #32
    www.centralcoastreefclub. com Ace25's Avatar
    Usergroup
    AC Members
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    5,753
    Blog Entries
    1
    That seems about right, and still be over estimating. The overflow pipes are not usually 100% full also. So out of the 16G estimated I am thinking you will have about 10-12G of actual back flow. For someone like me, 10G of backflow on my sump would really be pushing it, actually I think I would have a sump overflow with that. I am using a 34G rubbermaid tub that is 2/3 full on my 75G tank.



  3. #33
    Senior Member
    Usergroup
    AC Members
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Last Activity
    09-10-2012 4:16 PM
    Posts
    291
    After reading through this (and a few other sites to corroborate):

    http://badmanstropicalfish.com/articles/article28.html

    I feel pretty confident the floor strength is not an issue. I am placing these tanks directly on top of a load bearing wall below (that's 20" thick) and spans the entire length of the area the tanks will rest.

    I talked to the builder, he came and took a look and seemed to think it would be fine. I pretty much got the message that no one is going to 'guarantee' anything anyway even if I pay them.

    So I think I am going to move forward at this point. Since I am still waiting on the display tanks, i might start working on the equipment cabinet in the meantime.



  4. #34
    Senior Member
    Usergroup
    AC Members
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Last Activity
    09-10-2012 4:16 PM
    Posts
    291
    This is my initial plan for the cabinet/plumping. Obviously I've left some out for simplicities sake (plumbing from RO/DI, from Water change, etc).

    Through drawing this I think I have determined the sump pretty much needs to be a 75g. I don't think I can have enough area in the return section in order to facilitate the needed 50g water changes (20%).





  5. #35
    www.centralcoastreefclub. com Ace25's Avatar
    Usergroup
    AC Members
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    5,753
    Blog Entries
    1
    Now, time to think about equipment that is going into the sump. The heater(s) you would need for 2 100G+50G sump would be around 750w worth of heaters. Those are going to take up some room. In your first chamber of your overflow I highly recommend using filter socks, so that takes up room. Then you have the skimmer to place as well as media reactors if you are going to use those.

    So, that said, I would make the first chamber larger to be able to hold the socks+skimmer. The media reactor you can hang above the sump and T off of one of your return lines to feed the reactor (doesn't take much flow so no worries about losing much of your return rate). Middle chamber I would make as small as possible, just enough to hold your 2 return pumps with a little wiggle room added. Refugium chamber seems fine.

    The baffles I am assuming you just put them on the picture to show where they would go and do not accurately represent the actual size of the baffles or else your water level would have to be really high in the sump.

    One last thing, on your return line I would try and avoid 90degree elbos, using 2 45degrees instead so you don't reduce the flow.



  6. #36
    Senior Member
    Usergroup
    AC Members
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Last Activity
    09-10-2012 4:16 PM
    Posts
    291
    Quote Originally Posted by Ace25 View Post
    Now, time to think about equipment that is going into the sump. The heater(s) you would need for 2 100G+50G sump would be around 750w worth of heaters. Those are going to take up some room. In your first chamber of your overflow I highly recommend using filter socks, so that takes up room. Then you have the skimmer to place as well as media reactors if you are going to use those.

    So, that said, I would make the first chamber larger to be able to hold the socks+skimmer. The media reactor you can hang above the sump and T off of one of your return lines to feed the reactor (doesn't take much flow so no worries about losing much of your return rate). Middle chamber I would make as small as possible, just enough to hold your 2 return pumps with a little wiggle room added. Refugium chamber seems fine.

    The baffles I am assuming you just put them on the picture to show where they would go and do not accurately represent the actual size of the baffles or else your water level would have to be really high in the sump.

    One last thing, on your return line I would try and avoid 90degree elbos, using 2 45degrees instead so you don't reduce the flow.
    Thanks Ace, ya it's not to scale or even accurate, just a rough representation of the general layout.

    I agree with you on the first chamber, the issue I was running into is that the return chamber needs to hold 50g of water in order to do the water changes (as 50g is about 20% of the total water volume). So I'm going to have to really look at it and see how to make that work. That or I also need to somehow drain the first chamber too.



  7. #37
    www.centralcoastreefclub. com Ace25's Avatar
    Usergroup
    AC Members
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    5,753
    Blog Entries
    1
    Just make your baffles really small so that when you do a water change you are pulling out most of the water from all the chambers, only leaving a few inches on the bottom. With a good skimmer and filter socks, micro bubbles getting back to your tanks should not be an issue. I don't have any baffles in the sump/rubbermaid container on my 75G tank. I just filled the last 1/3 of the container with live rock and the return pump is buried under the rock. This way any bubbles that I may get still get blocked by the live rock on my setup.

    Here is a picture of mine to give you a visual aid and see if anything on my setup will help you out. Pay no attention to the temp on the chiller, that is not the actual temp. I have the chiller pump set to turn off/on at temps and when it is off the temp reading is really low since no water is going through it.



  8. #38
    Senior Member bigwave's Avatar
    Usergroup
    AC Members
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Last Activity
    11-21-2014 2:51 PM
    Posts
    470
    Here's a quick link to my dual tank build. I don't have plumbing diagrams yet, but you can get the idea. http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums...d.php?t=222392

    Wanna race?

    I really do appreciate the detail you have put in here so far. I plan on stealing some idea's, although mine will all be fresh water.



  9. #39
    Senior Member
    Usergroup
    AC Members
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Last Activity
    09-10-2012 4:16 PM
    Posts
    291
    Quote Originally Posted by bigwave View Post
    Here's a quick link to my dual tank build. I don't have plumbing diagrams yet, but you can get the idea. http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums...d.php?t=222392

    Wanna race?

    I really do appreciate the detail you have put in here so far. I plan on stealing some idea's, although mine will all be fresh water.
    Well seeing as how you already have your tanks, I think you are going to win!

    I hope to start work, at least basic stuff, later this week or coming weekend.



  10. #40
    Senior Member
    Usergroup
    AC Members
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Last Activity
    09-10-2012 4:16 PM
    Posts
    291
    Pump I'm looking at. Specifications look good. At this range the Iwaki's are almost 1/3rd more expensive and I need to consider the budget here. Keep in mind I will be buying two.

    http://www.marinedepot.com/Pan_World...JW1153-vi.html



Page 4 of 14 FirstFirst 123456789 ... LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Quick Hospital Tank Setup for Dummies
    By VivaLaVics in forum Freshwater Illness and Disease
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 05-09-2009, 10:49 PM
  2. So, I'm trying to save a powder brown tang..
    By Subliminal in forum Surgeonfish
    Replies: 29
    Last Post: 09-14-2007, 11:45 AM
  3. tank system question (DAS)
    By tangcrazed in forum Marine Reef Keeping
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 06-04-2007, 1:52 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •