Dry Fert options? Big Read Warning!

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Taysius

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Nov 10, 2009
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Alright, so I've read/skimmed stickies and used the search to try and get a handle on what I'm looking to get myself into. I'm not sure I want to go full on with EI dosing though and that's what most stickies and information are based on. I've also read mentions of a PMDD mix but I'm not sure that's the route I want to go either.

The thing I don't very much care for about EI dosing is that you're essentially adding more nutrients per week then your plants really need. You then do a 50% WC at the end of the week to discard the excess and reset the dosing schedule. At least that's how I am reading it.

I am currently pretty poorly dosing Flourish Comp and Excel on a when I think about it basis. I also use Flourish root tabs. This is on both my 29g and the new 75g. It seemed to work fine when I only had a 20g and the 29g but it doesn't take a genius to figure out that liquid ferts on a 75g is more than silly. I've successfully been keeping a couple species of crypts, vals, anubias, and hornwort. I also have dwarf sag and an amazon sword that I haven't killed but in the year I have had them, they haven't done much at all. Stem plants seem to die off on me. I have wisteria now in the 75g that just isn't looking good. I'm sure that remembering to add the ferts I have regularly would help. (I never remember because its in the fridge.) I should also add that java ferns hate me.

Both tanks are low light with no CO2 and no plans for CO2 either. The 29g has 4 15watt CFLs and the 75g has a t5NO fixture with 2 28watt bulbs.

What I think I am looking for out of ferts is something that will keep my plants healthy and growing. I don't need/want a ton of fast growth and as I understand, I won't get that without CO2 anyways. I'd like to only have to dose a few times a week vs. everyday dosing if at all possible. Would also like to keep my weekly waterchange schedule at around 25-30% instead of 50%. To me it sounds like I would like to do a lesser or weaker version of the normal EI dosing but I'm not completely sure if it works that way.

I've also seen it mentioned that with low light like I have that I may not need the NPK (macros) ferts at all. That I could easily get by with just dosing Plantex CSM+B (micros). Is this an option for me? If that's the case, then my uneducated self thinks it might be exactly what I'm looking for.


I think I've covered everything as far as my questions and concerns go. Sorry for the wall of text and any confusion that I added in the process.
 

coach_z

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Jan 12, 2009
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do you not like the fact that you are wasting your ferts? or wasting your money on water? or both?
the cost of ferts going down the drain is pennies per week. Water is not that much more.

If you dont want to do standard EI dosing with a 50% water change, simply cut back you dosing in 1/2, monitor you water parameters, and do a 25% water change. Make adjustments if you start to notice algae or poor plant quality.
 

jasonG75

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Jun 1, 2010
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Yeap that is my issue as well. I would rather buy liquid Ferts than have to do a 50% water change weekly. I do a totaly of 50% maybe during a 3 week time span.

20 gal or 30 gal OK

75 or 100 gal NO THANKS
 

Taysius

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Nov 10, 2009
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It's not so much the money(even though my husband wouldn't like me saying that) as it is the time it takes to empty and refill. I can't walk away without the hose slipping and it just seems to take forever. I also have a baby on the way so my time will become much more constricted. I want to be sure I will be able to keep up on my tanks while I'm still going "OMG I HAVE A BABY NOW!" ;)
 

James0816

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Feb 14, 2007
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The thing with EI dosing is that i gives you more control to dose certain ferts as per your plants' needs. If you notice them being deficient in one area you are able to adjust it rather simply. But I understand what you are saying about the big water changes at the end of the week.

Now, if you get it down to a more specific science, you will be able to still use the EI method with a finer tuned principle and thus will be able to avoid those big changes. This would take a lot of observation on your part to fine tune the dosing but perfectly managable if you ask me.

AquariumFertilizer now offers a micro/macro PMDD mix as well. Just to throw out another option for you.
 

jasonG75

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It's not so much the money(even though my husband wouldn't like me saying that) as it is the time it takes to empty and refill.

I follow, I feel the same way.
 

plantbrain

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Apr 27, 2001
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Since it is a non CO2 method of water column dosing, this thread would be more appropriate for the given goals.

http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/2817-Non-CO2-methods

If you like Excel:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/4266-Hybrid-methods-fusing-dry-start-excel-with-non-CO2

Various methods suit various goals, no one method will be able to meet all management goals. They are based on the rates of growth and ease of labor.

I have no intent of trying to sway anyone to CO2 or not........that is their choice based on the goals they have. Given that, I would not suggest using EI.

I have non CO2 tanks myself.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 

Taysius

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Nov 10, 2009
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Alright, I took a few days to think about it and its still slightly confusing. From what I think I am reading here, I still should purchase the normal NPK and CSM+B package of ferts. I just need to dose a much lesser amount since I will not have CO2. If I am to continue dosing with Excel, I can increase the amount of fertilizer I use.

Am I interpreting this correctly?
 
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