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Thread: glue

  1. #11
    Senior Member allaboutfish's Avatar
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    i think i just wont do the first one, but what about the second?





  2. #12
    The glistening drop.... Rbishop's Avatar
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    You have got to be kidding....just do it and see what happens...
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  3. #13
    Senior Member allaboutfish's Avatar
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    no, i wanna do it right and not ruin my hand made enclosure thank you very much.



  4. #14
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    I suppose you wouldn't want to drill through from the outside?



  5. #15
    Senior Member allaboutfish's Avatar
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    not really, thered be no way to repair that. isnt there a glue that will stick pretty good but you can buy something or make something that makes it un stick?



  6. #16
    ;sup' dog? ;woof and a wwwoof! dundadundun's Avatar
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    if you want it removable, give up on gluing. there isn't a solvent in the world i'd remove glue with and put my beardie back into a wooden enclosure. hot + dry + small enclosed space + porous surface + solvent to remove glue + animal = bad things man, bad things... at least if you care about the animal.
    Regards... Done.

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  7. #17
    Here fishy fishy fishy!!! The Zigman's Avatar
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    Screw the stick to a small peice of wood, and attach that piece of wood to the interior wall.

    Drill a hole in a small wood block, run a screw through the block into the stick, then attach the block to the wall, You would only attach it to the wooden wall of the inclosure.
    For the glass side use some double sided foam tape, or go for broke and get some 3M VHB tape (its like double sided super glue tape, but its expensive)

    do the same with the other stick, cut the end at an angle and screw it together.
    You could maybe use a piece of heavy slate floor tile, and just sit it there also.
    1 red turk discus, 1 M.boro Red discus, 30 Cardinals, 20 rummynose, 4 otos, 7 clown loaches, 3 SAEs



  8. #18
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    similar to Zig, but no permanent marks on the cage:

    for the #2 (stick coming up from floor) get a piece of 1/2" plywood about 12" square (another of those tiles would be even better), position on floor snug into back corner to locate the attachment point and angle you need to get the tips to rest on the walls. drill / file a hole to fit the branch (it won't be really round) at least 1/4" closer to both walls than the marked place (i always need that much slack :/ ); wood glue (plywood) or silicone rubber (tile) the branch into the hole, cure thoroughly, place in tank. sand / trim the branch tips until they rest snugly on the walls when the base is snug into the back corner. when you change your mind, just take it out -- no muss, no fuss, no solvent

    for #1 (hanging from wall) get a 1x2 as long as the width of the inside wall; finish to match wall. drill / file an appropriate hole at the angle you want the branch to hang at, drill a 1/8" hole from what will be the top side down to the hole for the branch. insert branch and and run a short #6 wood screw down until the branch is secure. attach to the wall with double-sticky foam or velcro.

    when you want to remove this one either just remove the set screw and drop out the branch (leaving the 1x2 on the wall) or peel off the 1x2 and wash off any stick patches with isopropyl rubbing alcohol (best) or ethanol-based rubbing alcohol (poor); the acrylic adhesives are pretty sensitive to IPA and slightly sensitive to ethanol; bothof those should evaporate quickly and can be driven out with a spotlight if needed.

    or you can try using a rubber eraser on the residual double-sticky adhesive


    note that both methods should support the weight of the dragon if the branch itself will



  9. #19
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    or, if you don't mind the look of the cross brace on the wall, you can make it a semi-permanent part of the enclosure by using a three #6 or #8 flat-head wood screws from the outside to secure it. brass screrws +recessed seating so the screw is flat with the surface is very inconspicuous on wood



  10. #20
    Senior Member allaboutfish's Avatar
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    would hot glue work for glueing plastic plants?



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