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Thread: Help I have ick
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02-27-2012, 8:11 PM #11
Personally I'd sell the hippo tang but unfortunately my wife wont let it go she's in love with it
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02-27-2012, 8:32 PM #12
And yes I have tested the water parameters and I can't remember an exact number but they all were very good
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02-28-2012, 8:32 AM #13Moderator
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Unfortunately, absence of the parasite at certain times during a given day doesn't mean much as they jump on and off. Sounds like the only thing you can do is feed them well, keep water quality as high as you can and hope. Good luck!
SG = 1.024-6; Alkalinity 8.3-9.3 dKH; Calcium 420; Magnesium 1300; Temp = 76 to 80; pH = 7.9-8.3. Alkalinity and calcium are dependent on Mg.
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02-28-2012, 10:10 AM #14
Yeah I think so to and thanks for all the replies I hope I don't lose any fish but it seems like my hands are tied BC hypo salinity is what I usually do but I can't now that It has corals what a bummer
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03-03-2012, 12:03 PM #15Junior Member
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Never treat your display tank. Quickest way to earn yourself a tank crash and lose all your sensitive species. Remove the fish from the display and either place in hospital tank with low salinity or do freshwater dips of the fish by placing into bucket of freshwater for 3 minutes. Water must be same temp and helpful if not r/o because you do want the ph to be close if possible. Water changes on display to reduce number of parasites free swimming and cysts on bottom of tank. Keeps stress levels down. Can treat the bucket with medication or try soaking food in meds if not copper. Higher temp to force the ich cycle faster.. do some research this stuff is everywhere

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03-03-2012, 12:22 PM #16wocka wocka wocka!
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I had a slow burning ich outbreak in my display tank, I tried using various meds and treatments and just couldn't get a handle on it, if i pulled fish from the display tank to a 20g hospital they'd normally die from the stress of the move anyways so I changed up my game plan from the standard western medicine treat the disease and kill it however you must (chemotherapy lol) I decided to simply support the fish's immune systems themselves. So I upped my water changes to help pick off floaters (EDIT: parasites) and to keep everybody from having to fight off nasties in the water or deal with ammo/nites and then piled in hiding places and plants to give the fish lots of places to feel safe and calm, and then i started to feed them an extremely high quality diet, I mean ridiculous homemade stuff (there're articles all over this site with recipes) and added garlic to the recipies, I'd also add 1 drop of this garlic aquarium additive (refined garlic juice) per 10 G for visible parasites. After doing that I had fish passing parasites that i didn't even know they had. Since then I haven't lost a single fish, have no bloated bellies, no stringy stool and oh yeah...no ich. Keep in mind this is in a fresh water tank but I do think the concept transfers. Just get your fish healthy enough that their own immune system can beat the parasites.
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04-27-2012, 10:58 PM #17Member
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Uv Steriliser... and that's all she wrote
1-1.5 days, done deal.
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05-08-2012, 1:48 PM #18Senior Member
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I've been worried about using one of those. Wouldn't they affect the BB in a tank?
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05-08-2012, 9:05 PM #19Moderator
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A UV is not the answer for a tank that has already had a ich introduced. There are many arguments out there of the impact a UV will have on BB but in a marine system, the BB are very limited as free floating in the water column and are rather firmly attached to the surface area of the rock. IMO, while a UV may provide some insurance against parasite introduction, they won't do much to cure a pre-existing condition. They will definitely give you some of the clearest water you can get though
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SG = 1.024-6; Alkalinity 8.3-9.3 dKH; Calcium 420; Magnesium 1300; Temp = 76 to 80; pH = 7.9-8.3. Alkalinity and calcium are dependent on Mg.
"You can't be half a gangster" - Jimmy Darmody, Boardwalk Empire
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