Testing equipment for new to salt

  • Get the NEW AquariaCentral iOS app --> http://itunes.apple.com/app/id1227181058 // Android version will be out soon!

Nepherael

AC Members
May 11, 2012
1,070
0
0
Warsaw, IN
Real Name
Brandon
I've been around here and there asking a few questions because I'm seriously working making my next tank a SW tank. Today's question is about testing equipment.

I know I would need a refractometer (this is for measuring salinity if I'm not mistaken) and I've heard this is better than the alternative that I can't remember the name of. Is that correct?

Now for what I'm really wondering. I've seen all kinds of tests mentioned that I've never used in freshwater. Calcium, kh(?), and others and I'm wondering if I can get a list of the tests that I would run as part of my regular tank testing and if they come in the master SW testing kit from API (i would assume that is the one I should buy correct?) And, if not, what tests I would need to buy separately.

Spare no expense. If I do a SW setup and there is something I might need to test in an emergency I would rather have the test for it handy.

Sent from my Droid Incredible using the Monster Aquaria Network app
 

TL1000RSquid

AC Members
Apr 6, 2011
2,364
1
38
46
NY
Refractometer and Hydrometer are the two main tools for testing salinity, the refractometer is most accurate.

IIRC the API master SW kit contains ph, nitrate, nitrite and ammonia tests, they also have the API master reef kit which contains some of the same stuff as the SW kit. Other tests you want calcium, KH/Alk, PO4, Mg, I2. Those would be your main tests for a reef.
 

Nepherael

AC Members
May 11, 2012
1,070
0
0
Warsaw, IN
Real Name
Brandon
Thank you very much. I'm guessing I would have to order them because I haven't seen them at my LFS, though I haven't quite looked either. I wonder if they come in another kit or if I would have to order each one separately.

Sent from my Droid Incredible using the Monster Aquaria Network app
 

TL1000RSquid

AC Members
Apr 6, 2011
2,364
1
38
46
NY
Can be difficult to find some of them in a LFS, online prices are usually better too. Drfostersmith carries all of them, they have a few different multi test kits too.
 

XanAvaloni

AC Members
Nov 13, 2009
1,242
0
36
First off, get the API REEF kit, not the Marine. The marine is the exact same tests as in the Freshwater kit, they just include slightly different color charts for the way the reagents react with saltwater rather than fresh. Look them both up on Amazon and you'll see the differences.

The alternative to the refractometer is a plain old hydrometer, net cost circa 8-10 bux. imho it works perfectly fine with the only requirement to rinse it in fresh water BEFORE and after testing to keep the swing arm from gooping up with salt. If price is no object get both--if you see that you get the same results with both instruments you will probably wind up using the hydro since the refract. requires ongoing purchase of chemicals to keep re-calibrating it. (okay per that ad it's about $7/bottle, but still.) Then you recoup the expense by selling the refractometer to a nervous newbie such as you once were. :)

For other testing gear look through that BulkReefSupply site, they seem to carry most of the gear for which there is a potential need. The problem with your request is that you could spend hundreds of dollars on devices to test for substances that are not now, never have been, and have almost zero potential likelihood of ever being in your water. And are not needed by your fish or other life. Once you get into more exotic corals maybe a test for iodine and strontium and the like would have a potential use, but keep in mind that the reputable marine salt makers include these trace elements in their mixes from the start. I suggest holding off on these purchases until that time comes.

as always if Greech gives different advice follow his not mine. :)

edit: I gotta write faster, or else figure out why this page keeps hanging intermittently when I hit Save. /grumble
 

Nepherael

AC Members
May 11, 2012
1,070
0
0
Warsaw, IN
Real Name
Brandon
Thank you very much. Yeah I see greech around a lot.

I am pretty nervous about it lol. I found a few fish I really like but haven't even begun to research if they can be kept together or on a reef. Like the emp angelfish and seahorses and some sort of clown.

It's gonna be fun but as I sit and tally up the initial investment I'm blown away

Sent from my Droid Incredible using the Monster Aquaria Network app
 

TL1000RSquid

AC Members
Apr 6, 2011
2,364
1
38
46
NY
Seahorses are usually kept in a species only setup, sometimes kept with small peaceful fish that won't hog all the food clowns would eat it all.

Once you have a reef setup going starting a dwarf seahorse tank wouldn't be expensive, just need sand, a few pounds of live rock, 10g tank, and lights suitable enough to grow plants.
 

Nepherael

AC Members
May 11, 2012
1,070
0
0
Warsaw, IN
Real Name
Brandon
Yeah I was leaning toward a species tank for the seahorses (i want to have 1 or 2 tanks setup just for breeding pairs. If it is just the one tank I've been deciding between seahorses or blue angels). It would be a little after my big tank. Never know though. With what it would cost me to get that much sand and liverock I might just end up with a small dwarf seahorse tank

Sent from my Droid Incredible using the Monster Aquaria Network app
 

Ballyhoo

AC Members
Jun 27, 2010
2,608
1
38
34
Fairfield, CA
Which tests you get really depends on what your stock is. Calcium isn't highly neccessary if you don't have a lot of sps corals imo. For example, one of my tanks is tested daily for Ca, the other hardly ever unless I'm curious. A good rule is don't dose anything you can't test for. I have the reefmasters kit for basic tests, a redsea pro kit for calcium, magnisium, and alkalinity and a redsea algae control kit for nitrates and phosphates.

I personally would never use a hydrometer again. I tested my water with a hydro it read 1.025 while the refractometer read 1.027. The argument about the calibration solution is nil imo. You use drops at a time to make sure its calibrated, you'll spend more replacing hydrometers than buying more solution.
 

SubRosa

AC Members
Jul 3, 2009
5,643
1
62
First off, get the API REEF kit, not the Marine. The marine is the exact same tests as in the Freshwater kit, they just include slightly different color charts for the way the reagents react with saltwater rather than fresh. Look them both up on Amazon and you'll see the differences.

The alternative to the refractometer is a plain old hydrometer, net cost circa 8-10 bux. imho it works perfectly fine with the only requirement to rinse it in fresh water BEFORE and after testing to keep the swing arm from gooping up with salt. If price is no object get both--if you see that you get the same results with both instruments you will probably wind up using the hydro since the refract. requires ongoing purchase of chemicals to keep re-calibrating it. (okay per that ad it's about $7/bottle, but still.) Then you recoup the expense by selling the refractometer to a nervous newbie such as you once were. :)

For other testing gear look through that BulkReefSupply site, they seem to carry most of the gear for which there is a potential need. The problem with your request is that you could spend hundreds of dollars on devices to test for substances that are not now, never have been, and have almost zero potential likelihood of ever being in your water. And are not needed by your fish or other life. Once you get into more exotic corals maybe a test for iodine and strontium and the like would have a potential use, but keep in mind that the reputable marine salt makers include these trace elements in their mixes from the start. I suggest holding off on these purchases until that time comes.

as always if Greech gives different advice follow his not mine. :)

edit: I gotta write faster, or else figure out why this page keeps hanging intermittently when I hit Save. /grumble
Incorrect. The Marine Kit is almost the same as the Freshwater Kit in that they both contain NH3, NO2, NO3, and pH, although the pH in the marine kit is high range. The Reef kit contains Ca, KH, PO4, and NO3. Basically a Marine kit is useful while cycling, but once the cycle is done the Reef kit is what you should use.
 
zoomed.com
hikariusa.com
aqaimports.com
Store