What would it take to make this a SW tank? Am I ready to go down this road?

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A. Nonymous

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Feb 4, 2008
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I'm not knew to keeping fish. I've had fish for over 10 years, all FW. I've kept everything from large cichlids to neons to shrimp. I've had tanks of all inverts and I'm working on ironing out the kinks of a high light planted tank w/pressurized co2. Anyways, this isn't my first tank and I'm not a noob to the hobby.

So this weekend I ended up with an empty stand for a 29g. Since I suffer from MTS I went down to the store and a 29g tank followed me home. I have no idea what I want to keep in there, but it didn't matter. The MTS kicked in. So now I have a 29g tank that is empty, no clue what I want to put in there and I'm debating whether I want to go down SW lane or not. If I do, what do I need?

I've got the following at the moment:

29g tank, stand, hood, light
HOB filter
Heater
Pea gravel

I'd probably go something simple like a FO tank. Maybe work my way up to FOWLR down the road. I want to do something simple to get my feet wet and have some sort of success out of the chute. What would I need to make this a FO tank with something simple like a clownfish? I'd need the salt of course. Any specific kind or will any of the sea salts Sally sells by the sea shore work? I'd need a Hydrometer and a SW test kit? I assume a cycled FW filter won't work on a SW tank? Would I need a protein skimmer or a UV sterilizer or both? Is a 29g too small for a SW noob or would I be better off sticking to FW where I've had success?
 

TL1000RSquid

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Bigger is always better but IMO 29g isn't to bad for a n00b to start out with wouldn't recommend any smaller though.

First thing I would suggest is ditch the gravel, get 25-30lbs of aragonite sand. It'll help keep your PH up and give more stocking options.

With FO and FOWLR salt type isn't a big issue no corals that are looking to take in minerals, Drfosters has coralife salt 150 gallon bucket for $40 which is pretty cheap, no tax and free ship if you order $50+ stuff.

I'd get a refractometer over a hydrometer a little more costly but much more accurate.

With no LR I'd run two HOB's so you can alternate filter cleanings and not lose your bacteria, cycled FW filter wont do anything for SW. I like aquaclears and if you go FOWLR or reef down the road you can convert an AC50 or larger into a HOB refugium.

The SW Master test kit is all you would need for now.

No skimmer or UV needed.

Assuming your hood is a single bulb t8 i'd go with 50/50 or 12000k+ bulb, 8000k and under bulbs look pretty crappy on sw tanks.

And only 2 clownfish per tank, and most clownfish species dont intermingle well.
 

A. Nonymous

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I'm also assuming from a maintenance side that I'd need separate pumps, buckets, etc.... to mix stuff in. What does the process look like for mixing water? For my FW tanks I simply add de-chlorinator and pump it into the tank. For SW tanks is it sufficient to just add de-chlorinator and then mix in the salt? Or do I need to do something to buffer the PH first? My tap is 7.5-7.8 right out of the tap depending on what day it is.

Also, in the long run would I be better off starting with FOWLR instead of FO? In terms of ease, are they pretty much the same?
 
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SubRosa

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I agree with no uv, but a good skimmer would be the single most important piece of equipment imo. It will take the place of a whole lot of water changes. As far as mixing, most better salt mixes are formulated to be mixed with RO water. I would recommend Instant Ocean or another brand which is low in calcium for mixing with tapwater. Just dechlorinate, add the salt, mix well and let stand at least until it's clear, better to aerate it a bit or let it stand overnight.
 

TL1000RSquid

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FOWLR would be easier the rock helps with you bio filtration. With a FOWLR you'll want to get some more flow going in the tank, you can add a couple circulation pumps to your equipment list like 2 koralia nano's.

Mixing you'll want a 5g bucket and a cheap pump like a marineland maxijet, with tap water you'd fill the bucket ad a few drops of prime, and the correct amount of salt, make sure all the salt is disolved and wait till the water is clear, I usually let my mixed water sit for overnight or longer but I mix bigger batches. The salt mix should bring your PH up to the right levels but you'll need to test to be sure, I've never used tap water.

I've never done a just FO tank so if subrosa says the skimmer would be useful in one I'd take his word for it
 

A. Nonymous

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Which one is going to give me the best chance of success with the smallest investment? FO or FOWLR? I don't want to invest a ton of money and then fail. I'd rather succeed small at first and work my way up, but I don't want to be like one of those people who start with a 1g nano-reef 'cuz they think that's the easiest way to go since it's small.

I have a powerhead and I've got tubs to mix water in. Those won't be an issue. I'm in the habit of doing a 15-20% water change on all my tanks on a weekly basis and a 50% change on my planted tank. Is is a bad idea to do the same thing on a SW tank? I'm guessing I would need separate tubs for SW and FW. Also, what is the advantage in letting the water sit overnight?

Edit: Also, would I need a sump? I have a handful of 5g, 10g and 20l tanks I could use for such a thing if it'll make my life easier. What would be the advantages of a sump in my setup? Just hiding everything.
 
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SubRosa

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Go FOWLR but use dry rock, such as from BRS or Marcorocks.It will become live rock over time and costs less. Also you won't have hitchhikers, which can be good and bad. A sump would be really good, but isn't necessary. A 15% weekly change is plenty.
 

TL1000RSquid

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FOWLR is the better way to go for sure, I've bought from Marco a couple times good quality rock and he also has WYSIWYG options which is nice.

I always have a bin of mixed SW ready to go in case something happens and i need to do an emergency water change, if you're using tap a small jug treated with prime is all the fw you need for doing top offs. Letting the SW sit overnight allows it to get aerated and some salt mixes cloud up the freshly mixed water takes a couple hours for it to clear up.

Sump yeah you get to hide all your equipment out of sight, adds more water volume/stability to the system, fuge section in it can help reduce nitrates and phosphates by planting it with macroalgae. Not a requirement though you can run a successful 29g fowlr or reef with out.

Now if you want to get extra equipment not mentioned yet, a RODI unit would be worth considering.
 

A. Nonymous

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There is a local store that specializes in just SW. There's another LFS in town that has a SW section. Both sell live rock. I think the speciality store sells cured and uncured (cured being more expensive). Why is FOWLR better? Would I need different lights for it? I know for FO all the light you need is light enough to see what's in the tank pretty much. I want aragonite sand either way and not pea gravel like FW right? Reef sounds like biting off way more than I can chew right off the bat.
 

TL1000RSquid

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Dry rock is usually atleast half the price of wet live rock, wet live will cycle your tank faster but can bring in unwanted hitchhikers. I usually do 90% dry rock 10% live to help kick off the cycling process. My LFS charges $5-8 a pound for live rock depending on type, dry rock is usually $3 or less, I think my last order from Marco was a little over $2/lbs with shipping.

FOWLR is better because the rock acts as filtration, and most fish you'll be getting for a 29g tank naturally live around rocky areas they'll feel more secure and act more naturally with places to hide.

You don't need any special lighting for FOWLR, new lighting comes into play when you want to keep corals or inverts that require lighting.

Wouldn't use gravel in any type of SW setup.
 
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