Red Slime Algae Help!!

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cicrush13

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Oct 4, 2010
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So my tank is getting overrun with red slime algae (aka cyanobacteria).

Here's the specs:

60 gallon stretch hex (4' long)
Fluval 405 canister
Skilter 250
Koralia powerhead
Marineland double bright LED lighting.

I change the water every 14 days, I usually take out about 20% and replace it with RO water mixed with instant ocean salt.

I am going to get my skilter skimmer working this weekend to help with this.

I am slowly bleaching the worst of the rocks b/c it is so thick on the rocks.
(This process will take several months to complete)

Are there any tips that you can provide to what I am doing to get rid of this?

I am moving in the next month or so and will be draining the tank into buckets (only moving about a mile from my folks).

The water is crystal clear but I can't get rid of this algae (bacteria). HELP!
 

SubRosa

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Jul 3, 2009
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Bleaching? You're kidding right? As fast as you put a clean rock back in, it will grow again if conditions are right. It's all about nutrient control. What are the parameters of the tank? If you want to put a bandaid on it, treat the tank with erythromycin. The slime will be gone overnight, but again, if conditions are right it will regrow as soon as the meds are used up.
 

TL1000RSquid

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Apr 6, 2011
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No phosphate reading?

Whats your powerhead rated for? How often is the media in the canister rinsed? What media is in it?

I had an outbreak a few weeks back in my one tank this time of year it catches some extra direct sunlight, changed out my GFO, added a couple new macro's and treated with slime remover so far so good.
 

greech

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May 13, 2009
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+ 1 to specifying overall flow and canister /cleaning and contents.

What's the fish load and what kind of fish?

What are you feeding?

What is your RO source? Have you tested TDS of that water? Is RO/DI an option?

Not knocking the skilter but a quality skimmer may be in order.
 

leocom2000

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Dec 27, 2007
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Test your nitrates and phosphates and post. If everything said above fails and your nitrates and phosphates are close to zero, you can dose some potassium nitrate in small quantities. You want your nitrates slightly above phosphates.
If you have macro alga like chaeto in the tank, the nutrients will be consumed right up leaving nothing to red slime.

Ahh... Just noticed your nitrates 10-15. Then my method is not for you, sorry.
Clean up, feed less, and remove as much algae as possible. Adding macros should help. GFO can do wonders as well.
Don't get discouraged, we all have been there.
Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app
 
Last edited:

BoCoMo

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Mar 2, 2009
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What type of rock do you have? I have seen cyano problems in tanks with 0 phosphates in the water column because the type of rock leaches phosphates for a long time. (Pukani is notorious for this) Seriously hope you are not using bleach. If you want to wash the rocks use a 50/50 dip (water/hydrogen peroxide) but make sure all corals and everything are off and rinse well with RO/DI before returning to tank. Reduce your photo period down to 6 hours too. (what all is in this tank?)

Please post pics of setup (FTS)
 

cicrush13

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Ok so to answer as many questions at one time:

TDS of tap water: 150-160 PPM
TDS of RO water: 5-15 PPM

There is no way to put a skimmer onto this tank, that is why I have the skilter.
It is a 60 stretch hex and I cannot put a sump with this tank.

Filter media, fluval 405:
Purigen, Seagel, Phosguard
Cleaned monthly

Filter media, skilter:
Skilter pad
Cleaned weekly.

Feeding:
NLS pellets, frozen brine, mysis

This a a fish only tank.
I had live rock, but had to treat with copper for ich a while back.

I did a water change this weekend and sucked as much out as I could.
I know that won't cover me for long as it is already regrowing.
I will do a small eryth. dosing and see if that works out.
 

greech

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May 13, 2009
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A tunze 9002 (or larger model) in tank would be much better than the skilter.

A lot of HOB skimmers out there as well with much better performance.

Are you draining frozen foods before feeding?

So what is providing your bacteria bed if you are not using live rock?
 
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