Cinder Block Stand

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fishcrazy2

AC Members
Mar 24, 2013
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I am really considering building a cinder block stand for my 75 gallon tank because of cost. Most of the plans I see online are for a 55 gallon tank. How would I go about building one for a 75 gallon and is it safe for a 75 gallon. Has anyone tried it on a tank bigger than 55, if so I would like to see it and the layout. Also, what type of plywood should I use.
 

Glabe

River Rat
May 10, 2011
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you can't go wrong with cinder blocks. remember to put in a little effort like paint to make it look like furniture :thm:
 

authmal

Pseudonovice
Aug 4, 2011
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Those would be the plans seen, Freshy. :nutkick: I know it because I gave the link, initially. :raspberry:

You have a few options. If your cinder blocks (I've never looked at available sizes) aren't 18 inches or so, find out what size they are, and maybe do multiple columns. You could have one "leg" of the stand be cinder blocks in an H shape or = shape. I'd recommend keeping each "leg" as symmetrical as possible, so no T shapes, just to create more stability. You just want to have it stable.

So, it looks like they're typically 16 x 8 x 8, according to wiki http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Concrete_masonry_unit. A typical (assuming you have a standard) 75 has a perimeter of about 48 x 18. I would lay the holes vertically, and I would have the blocks about 2 inches apart across the 18 inch side, and as high as you want them. Basically, looking top down, you're going to have an = sign that runs the length of both sides of the tank, and you should be able to see floor through the holes in the blocks. So, at a guess, you're looking at 3 (length) x 2 (for each long side) x 3, or 18 CMUs, if you want the stand in the neighborhood of 24 inches tall, excluding painting, and wood. The layer of plywood should distribute the weight, so the 2 inches or so down the center of the length of the tank won't be noticeably unsupported.
 

fishcrazy2

AC Members
Mar 24, 2013
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Maryland
Thanks. I looked at some of the painted ones and they look like furniture. I was just wondering how the blocks would have to be spaced. I think I really might do this. I did a quick look on Lowes and the block are 16 in. The tank has wood trimming. Also the dimensions are 48 X 18. So, the blocks with the holes are better? Also, do I need to put cement or anything in between to make sure is secure. I saw where people also was mentioning Styrofoam.
 
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Glabe

River Rat
May 10, 2011
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you don't need cement or mortar since the weight of the water will smash everything in place.

The = pattern is a good idea. I wonder if you'd be able to remove the middle columns of blocks and install a header made from 4x4's or 2x8's similar to what they place above doorways for support. That would give you some wood grain to match the trim and also some convenient cabinet space. a 16" gap doesn't seem bad
 

Glabe

River Rat
May 10, 2011
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The article has 2x4's to give cushion on the blocks and support to the tank over the ~10" gaps between the cinderblocks. The gap I was thinking of for the = pattern is ~18" with the 2x8's standing on end and clamped/bolted, but I like the 4x4 idea better. it may not make much sense, but I like to post ideas before I think them through... because brainstorming is ftw!
 

FreshyFresh

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Jan 11, 2013
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Those would be the plans seen, Freshy. :nutkick: I know it because I gave the link, initially. :raspberry:

Uh.. I wasn't trying to take ownership of "your" link.

Anyway... Pretty sure the LAST thing I'd want to add is ~400lbs of cement blocks under an already very heavy aquarium. LOL!

It's good info though. A heavy-duty setup for sure.
 

SubRosa

AC Members
Jul 3, 2009
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A 16" gap in the middle is no problem at all. I know of a 96" x 18" tank that sat problem free for 20+ years on two 36" x 18" angle iron stands with a 24" gap in the middle.
 
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