Co2 regulator question

prez2306 said:

Hey guys,
this may seem like a simple question, but the whole pressurized CO2 thing is a bit of a scare for me. That said, I'm planning on taking the plunge. I've done research on numerous forums, and I've read tons of how-to guides relating to setup, but I'm still a little unsure of everything. I've been looking at the UP Aqua dual gauge regulator, which comes with the solenoid and needle valve. The reviews I can find seem to be positive for it. With all that said, would I only need to purchase the CO2 cylinder, a bubble counter, and a diffuser? The solenoid enables me to run the CO2 in tandem with my lights, correct? Are there any other parts I should look at purchasing?

The setup will be used on a 46 bowfront. I have a 2x96w fixture (I only plan on using 1x96w), and I'll be adding dry ferts with the addition of the CO2 (most likely according to a lightly modified version of Barr's EI).

Click to expand...

Seems like you are right on target. The only other things I would recommend buying are a drop checker and check valve. The drop checker allows you to monitor co2 levels in your tank and the check valve will stop any back flow of water from damaging your reg.

You can plug the solenoid into a timer along with your lights. Many people have their solenoid set to turn on about an hour before the lights to allow co2 to build before the plants begin utilizing it. Likewise you can shut the co2 off an hour before the lights as the built up co2 will take time to gas off the water.


Sent from my iPhone using MonsterAquariaNetwork app

CO2 is great stuff in a planted aquarium!

The best advice I can give you is to consider "renting" a bottle rather than buy. I bought a beautiful aluminum 10# bottle an love its light weigh. The down side is you need a place that fills on the spot AND every so many years it needs to be hydro tested. Not a huge deal but their is a small cost and a time delay(week in my case). If you "rent" from a good place you pay a deposit on the bottle and just swap bottles, in and out in a flash. The 10# lasts a long time on my 90 gallon, so you could a #5 pound on a 46. Either way I would recommend lining up your source of CO2 that most convenient, some places are only open business hours Mon- Fri.

You can buy a fire extinguisher for not alot of money. It doesn't take much to rig it up, lasts ages and doesn't cost much to refill

Sent from my GT-I9300 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App

prez2306 said:

ah, i forgot about those two. are there any certain brands/models for those that are generally preferred per your recommendation, or does pretty much anything go? one of my biggest concerns is the conflicting opinions regarding brands in a lot of the articles i've read (one post will prefer one brand, then another will conflict with that, stating to avoid it).


Edited because I forgot to quote Axel.

Click to expand...

This is a problem when buying many products. As far as a drop checker is concerned I would say it doesn't matter too much. I use a cheap one that I bought off ebay. They all work the same, only the quality will of glass will differ. Even the cheap plastic ones are effective. Check valves can be a different story as they protect your reg. However, as long as you have a working one its fine. Some people use cheap plastic ones from petco, just be sure to replace them if they wear. ADA also sell some that are supposed to be good quality, and they aren't too expensive.
http://www.adana-usa.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=64
There's also stainless steel or brass check valves. Personally I use a SS check valve.

You may also want to use co2 tubing. Airline tubing gets brittle and can lose its seal at connections. Happened to me.

Having said all that the quality of the regulator may be the most important thing. The other parts are all fairly cheap compared to the reg and all function more or less the same. The only thing that can function differently is the diffuser. There are diffusers and there are reactors.

prez2306 said:

I gave my local welding company a call, and am under the impression that I can get a 5 lb bottle for a reasonable cost. I know aluminum is preferred, as it is lighter and lasts longer, but i believe i should be okay with whatever they give me, as long as it is in good condition. the CO2 setup will be under an enclosed stand, so looks aren't very important to me.

Click to expand...

I would also check with local home brew supply stores. I got my cylinder from one and it was significantly cheaper than the welding supplier.

Geez, I 'm not sure & I'm scared for my fish. I was given a full 10lb tank & what I hope is a usable set up, a regulator (out of calibration. no big deal, so I've heard...), solenoid, bubble counter, diffuser. I love to try it out but all my tanks have fish in them & I'm not sure how to safely test my system. I hope to learn...without killing any fish...

prez2306 said:

I gave my local welding company a call, and am under the impression that I can get a 5 lb bottle for a reasonable cost. I know aluminum is preferred, as it is lighter and lasts longer, but i believe i should be okay with whatever they give me, as long as it is in good condition. the CO2 setup will be under an enclosed stand, so looks aren't very important to me.

Click to expand...

Cool, with a 5# bottle no reason imo to go aluminum it wont be hard to move around and should last you a good long time. Again if a local place has a rental exchange deal it might be most convenient.

I know you original question was about the other equipment, but the CO2 supply is something you will need to deal with time and time again. It sounds like you have done some good research and you probably seen lots of different opinions. Less expensive regulators dont tend to last too long, but get you up and going. After my first one died I went for a more expensive one from aquariumplants.com, not saying its the best but it has worked very well for me. Even the cheaper one allowed me to grow plant like crazy. I would recommend a good diffuser so your Co2 supply will be used efficiently and have your solenoid on the timer with your lights. When you get it started up keep a close eye on the ph for the first day or so because it might rise above the comfort level of your fish. If the ph climbs too high try some crushed coral in your filter media. I like using the crushed coral much better than the ph down chemicals, its cheaper and easier imo.

Lastly, dont be afraid. Start with very low levels of Co2 and creep it up slowly. If you have ever tried to grow plants with out it, you are going to be extremely surprised!!