ID Algae and Suggestions?

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owenodin

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May 17, 2011
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Hi,

My plants (Crypts and Anubias) have recently starting being overcome by the algae in the picture I am attaching. This is as unblurry as I was able to get it, hopefully someone can ID this algae and provide some ideas on how to get rid of it. It is thick, short black hairlike growth. It seems to be destroying the plants. It's also attaching itself to my heater and my canister filter outflow pipe.

I have 2 marineland single bright LEDs, once on each side, that run on a timer from 10 AM to 6 PM. The tank is a 40 gallon long. The otto catfish and L-183 plecos don't seem interested at all in eating this algae.

IMG_3432.JPG

Thank you all for your help and wisdom!!

IMG_3432.JPG
 

ZorroNet

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Looks and sounds like BBA... Siamese Algae Eaters will eat it for certain. There aren't many fish that will, and it will definitely blackout your plants, so take action now.
 

asukawashere

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It's black beard algae, also known as black brush algae (bba for short), and it's one of the hardest types of algae to be rid of. Even many fish known to be good algae eaters don't like it. Generally, it's a symptom of having too many extra nutrients in the water, so step one towards eliminating it is doing more water changes and/or feeding/fertilizing less.

Here's a link with some good discussion of different approaches to reducing it. Experiment a bit, and see what works for you—it's one of those things where if you ask six different people, you'll get six different answers to their preferred method.
 

Byron Amazonas

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I agree with previous two members. This is the only algae I have ever had to really fight, and the light/nutrients are the issue as it details in the article asukawashere linked.

I don't recommend acquiring fish as only one or two will adequately deal with this algae, and they get large and have other issues. And chemicals should not be dumped into an aquarium for this. Finding the balance between light and nutrients is the key.

One other pint is the plants you mention. Anubias and other slow growers like Java Fern are notorious for getting this brush algae, simply because they are low-light plants and in excess light brightness the algae will easily appear. It's other preference is flowing water, which is why you frequently see it on spray bars and such. It is only my surmise, but perhaps the easy nutrient availability in the increased water flow is the reason for this.

I don't know how "bright" the Marineland LED lights mentioned actually are, but rather than perhaps replacing them, floating plants can make a big difference.

The other thing is the fertilizer dosing which isn't mentioned. Each tank is unique biologically, but the balance is the key. I have one tank, a 90g, which gets this algae fast if I over-dose Flourish Comprehensive. The other tanks don't do this, yet conditions are basically the same with respect to light, fish load, etc.

Byron.
 

Hr0th9ar

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Sep 8, 2012
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Turn off your filters, wave makers, air pumps and anything else you have that creates water movement. Get a syringe or a pipette and suck up some peroxide (H2O2). Release the peroxide on the bba (this is why you need to stop the water movement so it stays on the algae). Turn back on all your filters in 5 minutes. The peroxide should destroy the algae. If it persists try again in 2 days. The best thing about this method is that peroxide is NOT toxic to fish or pants. And it dissipates quickly. It's a win/win/win.

Sent from my SGS4 Active
 

Byron Amazonas

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Trouble is, the algae will return, and return, unless the light/nutrient balance is resolved. B.
 

LADY K

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I have that in my 10 gal. I will be getting a timer to do 8-9 hrs of light. I feed my fish once a day. I am going to try the peroxide on my next water change day. I hope it works. Right now I rip my plant leaves off.
 

owenodin

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May 17, 2011
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I have a canister filter, a HOB, and a Hydor Koralia.

Are you sure its safe to put peroxide in with the fish? How much peroxide are we talking? And wouldn't the fish swimming create water movement?

I may rather take the plants, intake, heater, etc out and dip them in 1/20 bleach. Is that more or less effective than this suggestion?

Thanks all so much for all the great advice and responses!!!



Turn off your filters, wave makers, air pumps and anything else you have that creates water movement. Get a syringe or a pipette and suck up some peroxide (H2O2). Release the peroxide on the bba (this is why you need to stop the water movement so it stays on the algae). Turn back on all your filters in 5 minutes. The peroxide should destroy the algae. If it persists try again in 2 days. The best thing about this method is that peroxide is NOT toxic to fish or pants. And it dissipates quickly. It's a win/win/win.

Sent from my SGS4 Active
 

owenodin

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I have Seachem Flourish, I put in the appropriate dosage every other week. The tank has a lot of bottom feeders, including nocturnal ones, so I often feed prior to going to bed when all the lights are out and the food is gone in the morning. Perhaps I will try feeding a little less and see if that is OK for the fish. I don't think I overfeed but perhaps that's a possibility.

Trouble is, the algae will return, and return, unless the light/nutrient balance is resolved. B.
 

asukawashere

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You might also try using a half-dose of the Flourish for awhile, if the reduced feeding doesn't work. Definitely put effort into working out the nutrient balance in the tank. I'll also note that plecos are fairly messy fish that put a lot of strain on the bioload. The flourish may not even be necessary, depending on the species of plants you're keeping.

In place of a 5% bleach solution (I've always found bleach to be somewhat harsh for use on live plants), you can also use a 15% H peroxide solution. Peroxide in small doses is safe for the aquarium (yes, fish movement does stir the water, but not half as much as the filters and such will). Bleach isn't half as friendly. Hence my preference for peroxide.
 
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