Chronic Blue-Green Algae

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tackful

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Mar 15, 2007
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Sausalito, CA
Over the years my tank has always had it in varying degrees. A week or two after an ethromyacin treatment it's back again. Attentive tank maintenance and frequent water changes haven't stopped it. In desperation I tore out all the plants, removed the 55w CF bulb and the co2, and put away all my fertilizers. I put a 17w light over my 29g tank and went fish only, along with rocks and driftwood. Disappointingly, the blue-green algae returned, as bad as ever.
I geared up for one more try and put in a new Aquasoil substrate and a few plants. Back came the 55w bulb, the co2, and the fertilizers. Since my tank gets a lot of ambient light, I split up the photoperiod into morning and evening times, thinking that maybe the combination of strong ambient daylight along with the tank light might have been the cause. Unfortunately, the algae, or cyanobacteria, returned and the tank just looks terrible. I hate to just give up on it, since a healthy planted tank can be so beautiful to look at, but at this point it seems like I might have to admit defeat and simply replace the tank with just a plant or something else to put in it's place. Before I do, I just want to give it one more try and attempt to gain an understanding of what's been going on. There must be something I've been missing, despite all of my efforts. Does anyone have an idea of what that might be and how I might proceed? Any and all replies appreciated. Thank you.
 

THE V

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Nov 25, 2007
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Sounds like you are treating the symptoms but not the cause.

In order to beat the turqoise monster you'll need to balance the tank. I've had a little of this stuff in my tanks before. I fixed what I was doing and after a water change it was gone.

So list out the full details.

Plants: species and numbers.
Stocking: same thing
Fertilizers used:
CO2 type injection method and amont in tank:
Lighting (take a picture). The type of reflector matters a lot.
 

FishFanMan

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Jun 13, 2013
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Can you show us a picture of the BGA and what brand of E.M. did you use, did you check for expiration date? BGA does like light, so if you can minimize the daylight hitting the tank that might help. It's a bacteria so cross contamination is something to consider. I had a bad case of it and was finally able to get rid of it with slightly overdosed E.M. from API. I actually repeated it after a week. It came back after 2 months when I added some new plants and 1 treatment of E.M. got rid of it and has been ok for about a month. Interestingly my BGA was always on the substrate (PFS) and not much else. Prior to treatment, I sucked it all out (comes out in sheets!) then added E.M.
 

JAY973

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Dec 24, 2005
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I have used peroxide with a syringe to target algae (2ml per gal.) but as "The V" stated it does identify the cause. Do you test your water No3 and Po4 levels or are using a fertz like EI? Water circulation for dead spots? (my green algae problem got better once I improve circulation and added a little KNo3 since my city water had enough Po4 and I was over feeding live food to my GBR breeding tank.)
 

Byron Amazonas

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Jul 22, 2013
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The advice of other members about dealing with the source is the only way to handle cyanobacteria. This bacteria (not an algae as someone mentioned) is caused by one thing, and that is high organics. I have seven tanks running, and have seen it only in one of them, sporadically. But any method such as reducing light or blackouts, dosing antibiotics, etc are only temporary, as indeed you have seen. The organics must be dealt with.

More data on the tank will help us. How many fish, and what species? How often are water changes performed, and what volume of the tank? How often are fish fed? What is the nitrate level? And the pH? Plant fertilizers are also part of the equation, though you said you stopped them when you removed the plants.

About two years ago I got cyano in my 70g. I did weekly water changes of just over half the tank (I regularly do 50% WC anyway), removing as much as I could each time. I vacuumed into the fine gravel substrate more than normally I would. I stopped adding liquid fertilizer. It took three to four months of this before it suddenly dissipated and didn't come back. A couple months later it did, so same process. Cleared up again.

While antibiotics will kill this, short-term, this is really not advisable. Antibiotics also affect fish and bacteria, and some plants. I did try this once, and my chain swords all died. It is best not to add antibiotics to a fish tank except to deal with a specific fish bacterial issue.

Byron.
 

tackful

AC Members
Mar 15, 2007
637
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Sausalito, CA
Sounds like you are treating the symptoms but not the cause.

In order to beat the turqoise monster you'll need to balance the tank. I've had a little of this stuff in my tanks before. I fixed what I was doing and after a water change it was gone.

So list out the full details.

Plants: species and numbers.
Stocking: same thing
Fertilizers used:
CO2 type injection method and amont in tank:
Lighting (take a picture). The type of reflector matters a lot
Plants: Parrot's Feather, Wisteria, and Rotala Wallichi, about 4 6" stems of each
Stocking: 7 Rummynose, 5 Pencilfish, 3 Pristella, and 1 Pork Chop (about 5 yrs old!)
Fertilizers: KNO3, KPO4, KSO4, and CSM+B
CO2: Pressurized, Rhinox 2000 Diffuser @ 1 bubble/2 sec (drop checker shows green to yellow)
Lighting: AHS 55 watt Brite Kit w/parabolic reflector (will be able to post a picture within 24 hrs)
Thanks.
 

Byron Amazonas

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Jul 22, 2013
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Byron
That data helps, thanks. Now, what is the nitrate test reading? And the pH?
 

tackful

AC Members
Mar 15, 2007
637
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18
Sausalito, CA
I hope this will provide all requested data not previously covered:
FishFanMan: I used Mardel EM, but don't recall the expiration date. Similarly, my BGA appears only on horizontal surfaces. Concerning contamination, I removed everything and cleaned out the tank as much as I could before starting over again with Aquasoil. As mentioned above, I should get a picture out soon.
JAY973: I have dosed the entire tank at 1 ml/g hydrogen peroxide for 3 days with good results, although not knowing the root cause of the problem the BGA of course returned. My N03, P04, and Fe (as an indicator of sufficient CSM+B dosing) levels are 10-20, 1.0, and 0.1 ppm respectively. As for water circulation, I am a bit confused as a LFS proprietor with over 100 planted tanks and a wealth of experience has advised me to reduce water circulation by enlarging the spray bar holes of my canister filter system.
BYRON AMAZONAS: I also did 50% water changes weekly, along with thorough gravel vacuuming and filter rinsing in old tank water, but I must admit that I lacked the persistence to continue for several months, becoming discouraged after seeing no visible improvement over several weeks. I feed once a day and watch carefully to insure that all is consumed within several minutes. I feed frozen (after defrosting) twice weekly. My ph is 6.4 before co2 comes on, after which it drops to 6.0 or lower, which is the bottom limit of my API test kit.
My thanks to all of you for your interest.
 

Byron Amazonas

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Jul 22, 2013
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With all this data, my thinking is that the nutrient dosing was beyond the needs of the plants, and this will feed cyano or algae. I think I mentioned a relationship I saw between cyano and liquid fertilizer in my tank. I can't say if the levels you were adding of those ferts was or wasn't correct, since I do not maintain high-tech systems and these are quite different from the low-tech or natural methods. But I will suggest that the plants mentioned (numbers and species) should not need a lot of nutrients, so this seems probable. Keep in mind too that these plants will not make a great deal of use of the enriched substrate, and as the cyano has been on the substrate (if I read you correctly) this is another source. There may also have been an abundance of light, beyond what the plants could fully use. And ambient daylight in the room does factor into this too; I have had algae (not cyano) appear and disappear solely from additional/less daylight in the room.

Byron.
 

tackful

AC Members
Mar 15, 2007
637
11
18
Sausalito, CA
Since my non-planted non-fertilized tank also developed BGA, I'm thinking the only problem left would be high organics. Must admit that I'm puzzled as to how this might have developed, since I had performed weekly gravel vacuuming, filter rinses, and water changes.
 
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