Help Wanted: I've Been Bitten by the Fishkeeping Bug

  • Get the NEW AquariaCentral iOS app --> http://itunes.apple.com/app/id1227181058 // Android version will be out soon!

essence006

AC Members
Feb 21, 2014
12
0
0
53
Hi all,
I assume I'm not the first daddy whose six year old daughter with bad allergies talked her old man into buying 'some fish' from petsmart only to find out that fish keeping is quite the learning experience. That said, I bought a ten gallon top fin tank kit and 'set it up' according to the pamphlet we got at the store then responsibly de-chlorinated our water and waited a day before bringing home our new friends. Long story short, of the 3 original inhabitants only Rainbow, the gold twinbar platy survived my learning curve. I'll fast forward this tale to spare you kind readers...

Since this tale began almost 2 months ago, I've changed the tank completely, adding two new fish, a black skirt tetra and and emperor tetra (i may be incorrect about him). It is now planted modestly w/ Anubis Nana, Java Fern and a sword of some sort, as well as dwarf hairgrass. I used Caribsea substrate in the red/black volcanic looking color with a 20w daylight CFL at 6500k. The filter came with the unit and there is a preset heater that maintains 78 degrees relatively consistently. (my wife bought the cheapest thing she could find of course.)

Now for the water:
pH: 6-6.5, typically 6.0
Ammonia: .25
Nitrites: 0-.25
Nitrates: Never above 5.0

I do water changes as often as 3x /week and treat the water with Prime if Ammonia or Nitrites are present at all. My latest WC was probably about 70% which brought both my Ammonia and Nitrite readings down to zero. However the following day my ammonia showed between 0 and .25 and nitrites zero so i dosed lightly with Prime. The fish appear healthy and we do not overfeed, although I do supplement with bloodworms once or twice a week which they seem to absolutely love.

After poring over the forums for weeks now I am concerned that our local tap water is creating a scenario that has made it difficult for my tank to fully cycle. I believe that the consistently low pH is prohibiting bacteria growth. I've tried dosing with baking soda, but the pH spike scares me to death and I'm not willing to risk it again. I am considering introducing crushed coral as I've read this is good way to permanently treat the tank for low pH but I'm also considering an alternative. I'm thinking of setting up a 20 gallon tank and fishless cycling it and just moving my guys to the new pristine and bigger space then doing the same with the 10 gallon which can then be used to house a small school of little guys. I'd love to hear your thoughts and I promise to post pics of the current setup at my next opportunity. It's hard to believe how addictive this hobby is (i'm not really a hobby guy. lol-) but I've not enjoyed an activity like this in a good while. My wife says I pay more attention 'to those fish' than her! LOL... But I digress.

Oh, and I just got my Kh/Gh (i think that's right) test in the mail so I'll have those numbers soon. And I test with the API master kit. Thanks so much for reading this rant, but I appreciate any feedback you might offer. Cheers!
 

vanillarum

AC Members
Jan 4, 2008
1,230
0
36
Mass.
Welcome to the addiction. There are a couple of things I would start with. First, every time you do a water change, you need to add prime. And second, I would not worry too much about the PH level. Most fish are fairly adaptable to PH levels, the most important thing is keeping it stable. If you move to a 20 gal, you can take your filter off of your 10 and put it on the 20 and the 20 will be instantly cycled. Then put a new filter on the 10 and start the cycle process again. Rereading your post, if you only waited a day for your tank to cycle, I would say that the tank did not cycle - it's a fairly long drawn out process. I would recommend you go back and read the cycling sticky, then go from there. Good luck.
 

stephcps

AC Members
Jun 2, 2009
2,209
2
38
If you have nitrates….you should be cycled. The fact that you have some ammonia and no nitrites and some nitrates….tells me you should be cycled. You may have ammonia in your tap water…many people do.

Welcome to the craziness. You started plants really quickly too….you are in trouble man!!!
 

ktrom13

AC Members
Feb 4, 2013
1,238
0
0
boston
Real Name
Kyle
If you have nitrates….you should be cycled. The fact that you have some ammonia and no nitrites and some nitrates….tells me you should be cycled. You may have ammonia in your tap water…many people do.

Welcome to the craziness. You started plants really quickly too….you are in trouble man!!!
I wouldnt say hes in trouble with plants. Id say hes bit another bullet because oncr you learn how to keep plants along with fish then youll never go back to fake plants. Welcome to the hobby!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
 

dougall

...
Mar 29, 2005
3,481
900
120
I propose, sir, that you don't actually want help. More you came here looking for encouragement.


and you'll be sure to get it.. enjoy the hobby :)
 

Byron Amazonas

AC Members
Jul 22, 2013
986
2
18
74
Pitt Meadows (within Greater Vancouver, BC) Canada
Real Name
Byron
I'm along similar lines with most other members.

First, with live plants, and provided you don't overload the fish, you should not see ammonia or nitrite. Even slow-growing plants (Anubias, Java Fern) need nitrogen and prefer ammonia/ammonium. The sword will use more. These should help you with the nitrogen issue. I would however find a floating plant to add; floaters are very fast growing, and being at the surface they have the aerial advantage of taking in CO2 from the air, and they can be what some call "ammonia sinks."

Second, a 20g will give you more options and be easier to navigate. The smaller the tank, the more fluctuation may occur as little things have bigger impact.

And a larger tank will be easier to stock. A 10g is not much space, and the fish already mentioned are not going to work in a 10g. All of the common tetra need a group of their own to be healthy, no less than six is usually recommended, but more is always better. A 20g will allow you to have a nice shoal of one or two or even three tetra species depending which, along with some other fish like substrate for more interest.

I would not get Black Widow/Black Skirt as these get large and they can be nippy in small spaces, even a 20g. Emperor Tetra are very active, and I would not have these in anything under a 3-foot tank [I have a group of 12 that I raised from eggs/fry in my 4-foot 90g, and that suits them]. Avoid any livebearers as you water is no doubt soft (the acidic pH suggests this), so soft water fish will automatically be better suited and avoid health issues. Tetra, rasbora, catfish...there are hundreds, though not all will work as I've already noted.

And I agree not to mess with the pH. As for cycling, it is true that the lower pH does affect the nitrifying bacteria, but fortunately this is not a problem. In acidic water, ammonia is ammonium which is basically harmless. So this is a blessing for the fish. And with the plants, nitrite should not be an issue. Keep testing though, but I would expect ammonia and nitrite to be zero provided you do not overload the fish stock or add too many too quickly. Add a floating plant, and you should be set to go.

BTW, test kits like the API which is a good one, will test ammonia or ammonium as "ammonia," so in acidic water this is not the danger it would be in basic (pH above 7).

Byron.
 

Finster

AC Members
May 20, 2004
164
9
18
67
Missouri
Real Name
Joe
You might be better off with a 29 gallon tank. The more water you have, the easier it is to maintain water quality. 29 has the same footprint as a 20, and you might find a great deal for one on Craig's list. I actually got one free with a beautiful stand and a hood! I bought a Grech (same as Sun Sun) canister filter rated at 265 GPH filled with cheap garden store lava rock. Total cost for the setup was 50 bucks. The water quality runs perfect with 1 Gold Gourami and 4 very over crowded messy turtles.

As to your water problem. I don't think a PH of 6 - 6.5 would inhibit BB growth to any serious degree. I Would check, (as suggested above ) your tap water for ammonia. I also would raise the PH to more average levels, with the crushed coral, just to avoid the rebound you are experiencing. The bacteria are there, they just don't work as well at 6 or lower PH. Larger water changes actually exacerbate the problem.
 
Last edited:

qwe123

AC Members
Jul 30, 2008
231
3
18
Western Mass
Personally, rather than change the pH, I would simply get fish that enjoy lower pH so you wouldn't have to worry about it...
 

the wizard

Is it really Niko's fault?
Jan 28, 2010
717
0
16
Real Name
David
I would not worry about testing your tap water for ammonia since you stated that your ammonia was at zero after a water change (provided of course that you followed the test kit instructions to the letter to avoid a false reading). I would agree that your tank was not fully cycled when you added fish.
As for the filter, most experienced aquarists will say to use a filter that is rated for a tank twice the size as what it is to be used on. That is to say, for your ten gallon, use a filter that is rated for a 20 gal.
Your idea of a larger tank fishless cycled then moving your fish is a good idea and I would not recommend anything smaller than a 29 gal for anyone new to the hobby.
Good luck and keep us posted.
 
zoomed.com
hikariusa.com
aqaimports.com
Store