QT procedure for new fish...

I would not treat new fish unless they show definite signs of a specific issue. Fish are obviously under considerable stress just from being in the store tank (which is almost always less than the best environment), netted, bagged, and now in yet another environment. Adding stress by using any chemicals or medications (which do themselves cause issues for fish) may tip the balance and cause ich.

As for the ammonia, what is the tank size? Some people keep a sponge filter running in one of the main tanks (to develop nitrifying bacteria) and then place this in the QT tank when new fish are added. Using filter media from an established tank in the filter of the QT should also work. Using one of the bacterial supplements (Tetra's SafeStart, Seachem's Stability, or Dr. Tim's One and Only are three that do work) will also help.

Placing the filter media in the tank itself should seed the bacteria, though I have never used this method. When this media is in the filter, the water carrying the ammonia is naturally brought into quicker close contact.

My method is to keep a 20g planted tank running permanently. I put all new acquisitions in this, and I have never had ammonia or nitrite issues because of the plants. You can toss in some floating plants from another tank to achieve similar.

As for the time in QT, I would say 3 weeks is minimum. I did once have ich break out during the second week, rather surprisingly. Most times I never see it at all, but provided you acclimate the new fish to the QT water, this depends largely upon the condition of the fish and the store tanks.

Byron.

I actually just setup my first QT as well. Its only 2.5 gallons. Im going to QT them until i can get my tubs and totes setup outside( waiting for the weather to warm up). But im glad i QT first because my new fish are battling a bit of fin rot. Im not sure if it can spread but im not chancing it.

Good call on the QT tank. Even if there is no signs of illness, protozoans and other illnesses can still be present.

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Having done this before myself….I really think it has something to do with the pad just sitting there. If you can tie it on to the intake like a pre filter you will do better. I had the same issue with one of my tanks….the filter stopped working. I took the media out and just floated it in the tank and put a couple of non-cycled sponge filters in to keep things going until my new filter arrived. It was the same media that had kept the tank fine before. But my ammonia shot through the roof quick! Since then I keep an extra sponge in each filter if possible. If I need a QT tank I use said sponge as a prefilter and it works much better.

I advocate a full 30 day QT for new fish. If during that time the fish show signs of disease, I treat until they are cured. Once the disease is gone I reset the 30 day clock. In my 20 gal QT I run 2 sponge filters continually. I haven't added any fish in around a year but I still keep it going. About once a week I drop a couple food flakes in it to keep the filter alive. It gets a 50% partial once a month.

Mark

wesleydnunder said:

Once the disease is gone I reset the 30 day clock.

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+1

Too many people will just have a fixed amount of time they will QT for, the only fixed time should be the minimum.

Neptune555 said:

Byron,

I am surprised that my freshwater tank has a ammonia reading using my ammonia alert badge? I have my filter pad and carbon from my 55 gallon tank in the 10 gallon tank? That filter pad is dfn old and well seeded? I am doing a water change. I even cut up some of the pad and put it in the filter? Why so cloudy? I have not QT before and my DT is so old.. I actually don't remember cloudy water or ammonia?

I am just thinking these fish would do better in the DT..... but I just cleared DT of ich and don't want to chance it...

Neptune

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I think the ammonia may be due to the media not being in the filter, as others have mentioned. I don't know how the ammonia alert badge works. To be honest, I never test for ammonia and haven't for years, but then I know it won't be there and from the behaviour of new fish in my 20g QT they are clearly not stressed by ammonia. I've even had spawning in QT.

Cloudy water is usually not a problem. In any "new" tank this is normal. It is a bacterial bloom, caused by the sudden explosion of bacteria (not nitrifying, other bacteria) to consume the dissolved organics. You might be surprised at how much dissolved organics are in tap water. This cloudiness will dissipate, sometimes in hours, sometimes days, sometimes weeks. Now, this cloudiness can cause a rise in ammonia--not the reverse as some think. A handful of floating plants is still the best option as it deals with this.

I sympathize on the new fish going into the DT. I have been keeping fish for over 20 years, and until about two or three years ago I never used a QT. I had ich once or twice, but it cleared almost on its own as it was mild. But things are different these days. Twice I have introduced an internal protozoan (which is completely undetectable until the fish just begin dying) and lost half my existing fish in the tank. The second time in a year that this occurred, I set up the 20g QT. These days fish are not in the state they were, undoubtedly due to the fish farms. It was farmed fish on both occasions that brought in the protozoan. I have never had any disease with wild-caught fish. But I admit it may partly be luck.

Byron.

I keep a sponge for my QT in my 36 gallon tank for use for my QT when I need it. I have my QT up and running now for fish that I am gradually restocking to my 36 gallon. My QT is a 10 gallon. The tank cycled very quickly I waited atleast 24 hrs after putting the filter media in the QT filter canister before adding the fish. I had a very small spike in ammonia in the beginning but it was easily corrected with a water change and after that had no issues. Did you try taking some established gravel from your healthy tank and putting it into the tank that would also introduce nitrifying bacteria into your QT. I also recommend keeping the fish in QT for atleast a month if no illness or issues then transfer to your healthy tank. I have done this process for all new fish and have not had issues.