Help with stocking a 120g planted

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matseski

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Jan 13, 2015
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Hi everyone. I had a 10g running for a few months with 3 neon tetra, 2 zebra danio, and a nerite snail, but needless to say that tank got boring rather quickly and I was frustrated that I couldn't fit any of the species I wanted to keep in it. So, like any average person would do, I bought a 120g aquarium and ended up planting it. Its been running for about 2 months now and is well cycled and the plants and fish are all thriving. It is a low-tech tank and luckily the plants keep the nitrate levels in check so I have only had to do 1 20% water change since my initial setup. The filtration system is a 55g custom sump with a 20g planted section that runs opposite photoperiod of the display, 3 gallons of K1 media, and a drip zone with about 200 plastic scrubbers topped with filter floss. The pump is a Jebao DC9000 which I estimate gives me about 1000gph. In total, there are about 150-170 gallons of water.

The current stock list:
9 neon tetra
7 zebra danio
2 veiled angelfish (sex unknown)
3 BN pleco
5 black neon tetra
2 glowlight tetra
3 mystery snails
1 nerite snail
and a bunch of pond snails both in the display and another colony in the planted section of the sump

I am aiming for a high activity community tank with a few highlight fish so I think I may increase the size of my schools and add a few more different species to increase variety and color. I've seen many tanks this size with 100-200 tetra size community fish on top of discus or angelfish, so I know I think I should still have plenty of room.

What is a good school size? 10? 20? 30? I have always read that they like to be in groups of 5-6+, but is more better?

Planned additions so far:
1) perhaps another angelfish pair or a dwarf gourami or 2...but am I tempting fate putting 2 pair of semi aggressive fish in a 120? The plants are taller in the middle to divide the tank, so in theory each pair could pick a different side...
2) another 5-10 glowlight tetra
3) 5-10 black skirt tetra
4) shrimp for the sump
5) I am looking for a school of red fish, perhaps some variety of rasbora...any suggestions?
6) either increase school size or diversify?

Of course, all small fish will have to grow to a large enough size either in the quarentine tanks or in the sump so they are not eaten by the angelfish once they get larger...

Any suggestions?
 

FreshyFresh

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IMO, the more the merrier in terms of school/shoal size for fish that do so. They're calmer, more enjoyable and act more naturally in that setting. The sky is the limit for keeping small community type fish in a large 6ft tank.

With your current light bio load, I'm not surprised your nitrates stay very low, but are you measuring parameters like KH and GH (to name a few)? Adding make-up water with little/no water changes is eventually going to throw those off.
 

wesleydnunder

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If it were my tank I'd increase the school sizes of the neons, glolites and black neons to 20 ea. I'd leave the black skirts out; just personal preference there. You might look at some livebearers for your red fish; platies, swords. In stead of another pair of angels, I'd do 2 or 3 pearl gouramis. I'd complete the stocking with 6 or 7 cories and a handful of otos.

Mark
 

tanker

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You can see my signature, I too have a 120gal. Personally, I do not like too many species, I like about one type of schooler for every 20gal+.

12-20 for any one species is about good for me. From experience, Discus and Angels do not do well together, the Angels will dominate.

You only have 4 schoolers in your group, so you can go to about 20+ for each (zebras are too active for my taste).
How about finding the species that you like best and get 30 of the one, and then only 15+ each of the others??
 
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tanker

Josh Holloway--Be mine!!!
Sep 1, 2003
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You can see my signature, I too have a 120gal. Personally, I do not like too many species, I like about one type of schooler for every 20gal+.

12-20 for any one species is about good for me. From experience, Discus and Angels do not do well together, the Angels will dominate.

You only have 4 schoolers in your group, so you can go to about 20+ for each (zebras are too active for my taste).
How about finding the species that you like best and get 30 of the one, and then only 15+ each of the others?? This is what I did, my favorite are my Cardinals and Rosys.
 

jpappy789

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Feb 18, 2007
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I agree with what others have said...increase the numbers! Big groups would look amazing with that size tank.

If you're still looking for red, off the top of my head I'd recommend cherry barbs. Females are a bit drab at times, but the males can get a very nice, deep red when around females. I'm sure there are more options depending on what exactly you are looking for, but I'm assuming you're looking for something in a similar size range as the rest of your fish choices.
 

enrique4jc

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Add me to the one saying big groups. Large schools are just impressive! Also, as was said above, you should really be doing water changes. You clearly have a lot of volume and your main numbers are staying in line, but for the health of your aquarium regular water changes are important.
 

matseski

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Jan 13, 2015
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Thanks for the input.

With regard to my water maintenance, I was referred to Tom Barr's Non-CO2 method for an easy and reliable low-tech system.
http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum/showthread.php/13623-Tom-Barr-s-Non-CO2-method
This method argues that since plants can adapt to low CO2 levels, water changes are only beneficial for lowing nitrates or in case of overdosing fertilizers. The theory is that water changes will cause a spike in CO2 levels which will not be used by the plants since they have adapted to a low CO2 environment, but algae will love it and bloom. Then you can, if you wish, dose minimal fertilizers every few weeks to maintain healthy plant growth. So far this has been working for me as I have not had any algae outbreaks and my water parameters (pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate) are all at acceptable and stable levels.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Any references for a more robust approach to maintaining a low-tech planted tank?
 

jpappy789

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I'd argue that water changes aren't only used for lowering nitrate.

I've never done this method myself, mostly because I prefer regular wc's on tanks that are well stocked...with your current numbers it probably doesn't matter as much, but I wouldn't recommend going the zero water change route if you're adding more fish.
 
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