HELP. Water issues in my (previously) cycled tank. Help!helphelp, please.

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shanagan

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Mar 2, 2015
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Hi everyone, I sure hope you can help me out!

I have a 150 gallon tank with 8 ryukins, one shubunkin and one Oranda. My shubunkin has been kind of listless for a few days, so I tested my water in what had been a perfectly cycled tank, readings of 0's across the board.

Now I'm showing .25ppm nitrites, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrates. (Using the API test kit. I checked some bottled water to make sure I wasn't getting a funky reading, which showed perfectly nitrite free.) The tank isn't planted, and is filtered by a fluval fx5, and it's been cycled and happily keeping my (poorly chosen, but live and learn and plan for more tanks!) little guys perfectly for the last 6 months.

The only thing that's changed lately is that I've dosed with aquarium salt and a Seachem product, Paraguard, this past week, as my oranda had a sore on her head, which has healed nicely now. But I've read that maybe the salt can throw my cycle out of whack.

Am I in for a heckuva lot of water changes in this huge tank? Should I dose with Seachem Prime? I'm REALLY worried about my shubunkin, and frankly ALL of them now.

Thanks in advance!
Shannon
 

shanagan

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Mar 2, 2015
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You know, come to think of it, I don't think I've ever seen it above a teeny trace.

I follow the master test kit directions exactly (and I mean, this sounds weird, but I'm a pretty intelligent person) but you make an excellent point. WTH. I just tested again, again side by side comparison of tank and tap water. No difference.

ETA: **** **** ****. my pretty Shubunkin, aka Michael Young, is dying now.

One more edit: shubunkin is gone. I pulled my Oranda into a bowl as a stop-gap (she's the one I'd be most heartbroken to lose), and dropped a used filter (that needed to be changed anyway) from my cycled betta tank to help seed bacteria.

I'm.. baffled. How do I have zero ammonia, one dead fish, .25 nitrites and zero nitrates???
 
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jpappy789

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How old is the test kit? Unless you have something funky going on with water chemistry, the only things I can reasonably think of for a well stocked tank that is 6 months old is either user error or bad testing reagents.

Nothing else has changed recently that could have disturbed the beneficial bacteria? How did you originally cycle?
 

shanagan

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Mar 2, 2015
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Thanks for trying to help me figure it out.

We cycled with an empty tank but used older filter material and purchased cyrpress driftwood. (Which took about a month.) When we started seeing nitrates (ahhh, yes, I have seen nitrates in this tank) and a just-under-.25 ppm nitrite, we added three "tester" goldfish. Two teeny ryukins and the shubunkin. We added new fish about two weeks after that.

The only things that changed were the addition of (properly dosed for the tank size) aquarium salt and daily doses of Seachem Paraguard for four days after our oranda either bumped or bruised (or was bullied, I never saw it) and developed a red sore on her head, last week. (Which is healed now... no good deed goes unpunished and it's my fault for not moving her to a separate tank - our "hospital" has been taken over by a crazy betta. SERIOUSLY my bad.)

I've decided it must have been a combination of the Paraguard (which is, after all, meant to kill parasites, I'd guess) and the salt. The tank is definitely not overstocked - the biggest two fishes were the shubunkin & the oranda, each about 3.5/4 inches long, nose to tail.

I'm starting to wonder if the batch of nitrate reagent is bad, as well. It's about.. hmmm, 7-9 months old from when I bought it, on Amazon?

OR, and this is a slim to none chance given the timeline, maybe the tank is in the process of "re-cycling"? That would explain a nitrite spike with zero ammonia and zero nitrates. How long does a stocked tank take to cycle? I've only ever done it starting with NF.

eta: Our last big water change was about 3 weeks ago, but everything had been fine after that.
 
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shanagan

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Mar 2, 2015
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Morning update: Got smart enough to test my betta tank, which has been humming along for about a year with its "biowheel" helping to keep everything smooth. No NO3 registering at all. So bad reagent has got to explain that.

I did have some strips (you know the ones, we all buy them before realizing they're crap) and the NO2 is the same (.25ish) but the NO3 showing at somewhere between 40 and 60.

Guess who gets to go swimming today (seriously, though, water changes in this tank are something else) to help her poor fishies? (Shu-shu, my pretty oranda, is not happy with her temp quarters, but everyone survived the night, but my ryukins are pooping like I've never seen, which makes me nervous. Long and thick strands.)
 

vwill279

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Fancy goldfish have kind of a crunched digestive system, more precisely, they have the same digestive system as a long bodied comet/common goldfish, but shoved into that bulbous body. This can mean digestive issues including slower digestive time. For fancies, it is best not to feed dry foods like sinking pellets or flakes. Instead, presoak the foods. This will aid in digestion and make it so they dont get stopped up. That is likely the cause of them all pooping like mad. They finally are clearing their digestive system out. Fasting them once per week or feeding them foods like shelled peas will also help move things along. I feed my fancies lots of fresh and canned (no sodium) veggies. They particularly like zucchini and french cut green beans. They also like to eat duckweed, so I grow it in another tank then feed it to them a few times a week. I also feed frozen protein like blood worms and brine shrimp in addition to veggies. I rarely feed flakes. Sinking algae wafers are good though as long as they're too big to be eaten right away. They will soak on their own and it will give the goldies an activity. We call it Algae Wafer Soccer Night in my house because they punt those wafers all around the tank trying to bite off tiny pieces.

Goldfish are extremely high waste fish. They are carp, and excrete ammonia through their gills as well as with the poop. Even if your goldies are still small and you have a huge tank, it is always a good idea to have a 30-50% water change every week. Adding live plants can also help keep the system a little more in balance. Anubias do well in my tank. I also have a decent light fixture so I can grow amazon swords. Some of the more delicate plants may become food to goldies though, as they like to eat plant matter.

If you dont already have one, invest in a python or other brand siphon that hooks up to the sink. It will make changing the water in even your big tank easier. Trust me, worth every penny and then some. Also make sure you are dosing prime when you do water changes. Prime is better than any other dechlor as it also removes heavy metals and detoxifies ammonia and nitrites. I usually dose a bit higher than recommended for water changes on my goldfish tank just in case there is any ammonia or nitrite in the tank.
 

shanagan

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Mar 2, 2015
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Thanks Vwill. I've been thinking about those algae wafers for a bit, they're getting added to the cart now. They've been on a diet of mostly Hikari pellets supplemented with misc veggies like cooked shelled peas and chopped cooked brussels sprouts (this is particularly good for the oranda, who can eat the bigger pieces the smaller but faster ryukins can't eat but I've felt for a time the Hikari pellets weren't doing the trick, and frankly are too easy to overfeed. They do get fasted after a brussels sprout feeding - I generally cook, cool, then chop the tender parts into a variety of sizes and it takes them about a day and a half to eat it all. From there, they get fasted for a day.

I definitely need to do some Amazon shopping today (closest LFS is an hour away) to help with the water change difficulty.

Also I'm glad to hear that you prefer the Prime, as well. When you have a fish die, you need all the reassurance you can get that you're doing alright. :( Still can't believe it was the shubunkin, though.

ETA: How do you feed the green beans? Chopped, whole?
 

jpappy789

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Feb 18, 2007
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I'd check the lot # on your API liquid reagents...that will give you an idea of whether they're actually expired. The number corresponds to the manufacture date and most of the tests last 3-5 years..although I think the newer kits have exp. dates printed on them directly.
 

shanagan

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Mar 2, 2015
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I went ahead and ordered a new nitrite kit after getting that high reading on the stick. I also ordered the aqueon version of the python hose, which will both be here tomorrow. In the meantime, I'm going to wait for my husband to get home to help me with the good old "run a hose out the window" water change.
 
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