How to avoid OTS? Question of theory.

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Watcher74

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Feb 5, 2004
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From what I have understood about the things I have read about Old Tank Syndrome is the theory about water parameters slowly drifting out of line. A tank kept for several years where at least one, most likely more, aspects of water chemistry gradually drifts to an quite an extreme out of the norm. Making that tank extremely toxic to any new fish introduced to the tank, while the long time inhabitants show no stress at all.

The thing that has made me wonder about this is water evaporation from my tank.

I have a piece of tape that marks the 25% of water capacity on my tank that I use every week when I do my partial water change. I can tell there is a noticiable amount of evaportion between these changes which only reduces the clean water not the nitrAtes( and whatever else) builds up between my changes.

This seems to me that it would gradually make water changes remove a smaller amount, every week, of nitrAtes and whatever else before being replenished with fresh water.

Does anyone have a possibly way of preventing OTS? Like maybe once every so many months doing a water change 7 days in a row to reverse this process?
 

PumaWard

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Jul 23, 2003
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My best advice would be to try to reduce evaporation as best you can.

Your theory has some logic to it, and I have never really though about it.

Every could of weeks, maybe, a 2x normal water change would help out to a degree.

Sorry, I'm not being very helpful :D
 

anonapersona

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Mar 7, 2003
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Right on that throey, ideas to help

You are totally correct about that small amount of evaporatin causing the parameters to drift. Even the water changes do not stop that, though they do limit the drift.

To correct it, you need to top off with distilled water just before doing a water change. Just keep a jug of distilled water and use it whenever you notice the tank a bit low. Sometimes that will be right before you are changing water, but add that distilled anyhow, even just before you turn around and drain tank water right back out.

This is why it is important to keep a journal and record parameters from time to time, so you'll notice if the tank is now at GH=12 but the tap water is at GH=10 which would indicate that the evaporation has not been made up for with enough distilled water to prevent that drift upward in minerals.
 

JesseJ

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Jan 22, 2004
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I was told that you wern't supposed to use distilled water because it sucks the minerals back up, in some cases damaging your fish. Is that true? Would it still be useful to absorb the excess mineral salts left after evaporation? Would RO water work just as well in this case? And what exactly is the difference between the 2 waters?
:scratch: ... so confused...
 

Richer

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Aug 7, 2002
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You don't really needed to top off for evaporation to prevent OTS. What I do is every 1-2 months, I do a near 100% water change. Two 50% water changes, one right after the other. If proper water changes are done prior to this massive water change (ie. water changes are done frequently enough, so that water in the tank is pretty close in condition with the water from the tap), then it shouldn't cause any shock to the fish. I just did one on my planted tank, and I did one on my cichlid tank a few weeks ago... all turned out well.

Stocking lightly, feeding light, providing good filtration, and lots of water changes should be enough to prevent OTS in the long run.

HTH
-Richer
 

RTR

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Oct 5, 1998
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Agree w/Richer. Periodic large-scale changes do a great job of re-setting everything to source water levels. I'm not as frequent as he is on the major changes, but I do use them at least a couple of times a year. I also do monitor the nitrate/pH/KH periodically to assure myself that my tanks are not drifting away from source parameters. My routine water partials are not small either. My stocking/bioloads are actually pretty low.
 
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