Rift Lake Filtration

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GobyGuy5

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Nov 28, 2002
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I was interested in setting up an African Cichlid tank, and have some questions concerning filtration. The tank is small, only twenty gallons, I figured I could put 5 cichlids in it that would grow to about 4-4.5 inches adult size. I wanted to filter the tank well, so the water would be clean and ammonia free. Another factor that came into play was the fact that due to the rocks, I cannot use an undergravel filter, so the filter I need has to be able to bio-filter as well. I have narrowed it down to one of the following filters:
A Marineland Penguin 125 Bio-Wheel
A Marineland Penguin 170 Bio-Wheel
Or A Marineland Emporer 280 Bio-Wheel
I have read that you want to make the flow of water as calm as possible in this type of an aquarium, however I also have a heavy bio-load so I figured a more powerful filter might be needed anyways.

I figured the Emporer 280 would be able to handle the filtration wonderfully, but isn't it overkill? and won't it create too much of a current?

Which filter would be able to handle the bio-load and keep the water clean, but produce as little a current as possible?

Also I have heard you want to place a sponge on the Filter intake to protect the impeller from sand, how could I do this?

Furthermore, are there any ways to calm the flow of water in the tank even with a powerful filter?
 

NickH

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Oct 12, 1998
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With the requirements/parameters you want, it's hard not to recommend a small canister filter. It will provide superior biological filtration over the HOB's you list, with lower GPH flow and water always exiting below the water line (less turbulence). I don't see why a Fluval 104 or 204 would not fit the bill (although at twice the cost).

If funds limit you to the HOB variety, the Emporer 280 would be the way to go. The spray-bar driven Bio-Wheel would, IMO, offer better biofiltration. And, because of this feature, you can lower the overall flowrate without impeding on the Bio-Wheel function. The Penguin series biowheels are exhaust flow driven (and in my experience, unreliable, but that's an argument I don't want to start here).

Either way, you are correct in wanting to use a sponge prefilter with sand. I learned this the hard way. I'm sure others can offer details as to how to add this to your setup.
 

Harry Tolen

Cichlid Fan
Aug 17, 2000
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The rule of thumb that says 1" of fish per gallon of water is only even approximately accurate with very small fish (say less than 2" in size). The bioload a fish creates increases as a function of its internal volume (because width and height also increase), thus the 5 fish you are looking at would produce as much waste as a LOT of 1" fish. The five cichlids you are proposing for your 20 would thus seriously overload the system, as well as (probably) kill each other over territorial disputes. Rift Lake tanks are also especially sensitive to ammonia problems, because of the increased toxicity of that substance at higher pH levels.

If you are determined to have Rift Lake cichlids in that tank, however, you could have a very interesting community of small shell dwellers. Neolamprologus brevis, multifasciatus, and ocellatus would all be great choices. You could start with a few (note: pick one species only), and, if well-cared for, they would be likely to begin breeding and give you a very interesting colony to watch. You can get escargot shells at most delicatessens that will work perfectly for these fish, and will only cost you about $10.00 for 30 or so shells.

As far as filtration, I'd stick with HOBs, but add an extra one for safety. An Emperor 280 would be fine (the current would not be too strong), but then I'd also use an Aquaclear 200 or 300 loaded with nothing but sponges, for additional mechanical and biological filtration.
 
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