Substrate replaced and tank rebuilt

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deocder

redcoed
May 3, 2004
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The last two months have been quite interesting in terms of converting my community tank to a plant tank. The first problem was sky high nitrates (160 ppm)which was a result of neglect on my part. Daily water changes, removal of heavy waste producing fish, deep gravel clean, addition of stem plants....and the nitrates seemed to level off to around 10 ppm. After receiving my phosphate test kit, I tested the tank water and tap water and found it to be 1.5 mg/L from the tap and 5.0 mg/L in the tank! After posting pics of my tank to get help with my algae problems, it was suggested that I bleach everything. So I did just that. Then I added a ton of stem plants and began DIY CO2. I was expecting the phosphate problem to fix itself after the bleaching process. However, not the case! It seemed that there was a problem with my substrate. In the past I had used a lot of Proper pH which turns out to be just a phosphate buffer. For some reason, I could not get this stuff out of my substrate. It was suggested that I replace my substrate.....


Here's a shot before the process:


Everything and everyone pulled:


I decided to get a new 55 gallon tank since the last one had bad scratches and the sealant was green and falling off. I painted the back of the tank with black latex paint, about 8 coats. I also repainted the stand. This picture shows the dusting of peat on the bottom of the tank with the first layer of substrate. After the first layer of substrate was put down, I added mulm from another tank and then added the rest of the substrate.


Here's the tank with all of the substrate added. I used 45 lbs of Flourite and 30 lbs of Shultz Aquatic Soil. Both were rinsed well and then mixed together. I've never put so much substrate in a tank before but I took others suggestions.


And finally the end. It took me 7 hours from start to finish. I lost a rainbow in the process most likely from stress. My 4 ottos and 1 SAE have been chasing each other from one side to the other since they were put in. They seem really happy.


Well the whole reason I did this was to get rid of my super high phosphates. I'm to tired to check it now but will do first thing in the morning.
 

deocder

redcoed
May 3, 2004
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Haha...right!

Well here are the parameters after about 20 hours:

pH - 6.6
3 dKH
17 dGH
Ammonia 0.5 mg/L
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 10 mg/L
phosphate - 3.0 mg/L

I hope the phosphates are high because I used some of the old water.
I expected the ammonia increase because I stripped the tank of most of it beneficial bacteria. The KH and GH reading are interesting. I'm going to pull the CO2 until the KH gets back to 5 dKH or so. I'm going to add Flourish, K, and Mg for the plants.
 

djlen

Fish?.......What Fish?
Aug 19, 2002
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You should be fine with DIY CO2 with a kH of 3.0 while it rebounds. As I remember it you were pushing somewhere between 15 - 20 ppm, right?
Speaking of CO2, what kind of reactor are you using? Also, what kind of filter or is it a power head on the right-rear of the tank.

Len
 

deocder

redcoed
May 3, 2004
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The last CO2 reading I had before the operation was 26.7 ppm based on the KH and pH calculation. My reactor is simply the outlet of the CO2 tube into the intake of the power head. It's a Maxi-jet 600 by Marineland.

48 hours later.....test results:

pH - 6.6
2 dKH
17 dGH
0.5-1.0 ppm Ammonia
Nitrate - 10 mg/L
Phosphate - 3.5 mg/L

And I have Ich.....water temp raised to 86 degrees F...Salt added slowly to 2/3 teaspoon per gallon. Clown Loaches suffering the most.......heavy respiration....O2 content increased with airation.....
 
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deocder

redcoed
May 3, 2004
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4 days later:

20 gallon water change yesterday.


pH 6.4
2 dKH
17 dGH
Ammonia 0.5 mg/L
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 10 mg/L
phosphate - 3.5 mg/L

Still treating for Ich. I am getting skeptical about the phosphate readings.....I cant figure out where this crap is coming from. 1.5 mg/L from the tap. Very little food being fed, no buffers at all... :confused:
 

djlen

Fish?.......What Fish?
Aug 19, 2002
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Do you have a Python?
I would do a series of larger water changes....at least 50% for each change. Every other day would not be to frequent. 6 days, three changes.
Looks like you still have the same bog wood in the tank. Is this correct?
I would pull it out and boil it. Then leave it out and start your water changes.
Then test for P content. You are running out of options on this phosphate issue. You are running with just pads/sponges in the filter and no carbon, correct?
Is there anything else still in the tank from the old set up?
On the Ick thing. That will take a few more days to finish up. If so, be sure and pull the bog wood and boil it. You may see a difference in P content just by doing that.
If the kH does not start to come up, you will need to buffer it up with baking soda. 2°kH is too low, IMO.

Len
 
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deocder

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May 3, 2004
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djlen, I did what you suggested. Yes I have a Python. I pulled out the bogwood and boiled it. My tiretrack eel is pissed off because he used that wood to hide under. Now he's freaking out and uprooting plants. Hopefully he will get over it soon. My canister filter is all mechanical and biological. I have purchased some new sponges and porus material to replace a lot of whats in there. It's as old as the last tank.

My rubber lipped pleco died today. One of my clown loaches looks horrible. Everyone else looks okay except for my other clown loach that is breathing heavily still.
 

Timmain42

Disturbed Quasi-Genius
Jan 4, 2002
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What brand of phosphate test are you using?
 
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